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  #16  
Old 03-28-2005, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
Mr leathermang, you will be 45 someday...
Ohhhhh, Greg........................don't you wish!!!
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  #17  
Old 03-28-2005, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
If I lived near you, I would help you do anything!
Likewise. I need your motivation and karma!!
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2005, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
The fact that you have to ask which size bearings is an indicator you are not an experienced engine rebuilder...by leathermang


When I was young I was very competitive and something like this would get me motivated.
I mean all of us are stubborn and tuff or we wouldnt be doing this..but I'm 45 now, at this age we all got other stuff on our minds...
Mr leathermang, you will be 45 someday...
Leathermang is past 45..............in fact he is past 55 ....check his profile..
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2005, 01:51 PM
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Heck that makes me feel good!

The reason I keep wrenching is to stay young!
Thanks for the motivation, Leathermang.
Yes I never used plastiguage I got by on an inner micrometer and an outside micrometer and a dial indicator and blocks, and a straight edge thats all I used for all of my engines. You may not need palstiguage unless you are blueprinting. You just cant afford everything. There was a day when there was no Internet and Fedex and EBAY and you couldnt buy everything everyday.

I got a liitle distracted recently by Turbo gas motors and computerized engine controls..

Anyway being 45 has its advantages i will pull the engine starting this weekend.
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2005, 01:55 PM
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Location: central Texas
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Talking

"When I was young I was very competitive and something like this would get me motivated."

I already tried the short route on so many things... and discovered it was actually the long route... I am trying to save you from having to learn this the hard way on a nice engine...

Another thing to consider is what you consider success.... it may be different from what all these old conservative guys are thinking about when they posted in this thread...
I think that you should be able to run your engine to the same point that the rings would have worn out had you not acquired this knock.. if you do this correctly... you may consider getting 10,000 miles more out of this engine as success.... I don't know... and it won't be my money or knuckles hurt by experimenting on your engine... could be a lot of fun to watch if you are honest about what you run into trying it... But we had to be honest in our opinions.. or we would not be able to say " I Told You So ! " afterwards (if you don't follow our advise ) .....
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  #21  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:01 PM
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PlastiGuage is a Godsend for normal mechanics.. you have way more invested in those tools you mentioned that what it would cost to Plastiguage several engines ......
Even nicer is the fact that most people will get WAY closer to accurate with the plastiguage than with your equipment... which I know takes " FEEL" and practice to use...

http://www.plastigauge.com/

Last edited by leathermang; 03-28-2005 at 02:14 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:07 PM
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"There is significant risk when working upside down in unfamiliar territory."

Try twice having to get hold of my eye doctor to remove flecks of rust on my eyeball late in the evening or a weekend... ... very hard to see straight up... and then all that oil following gravity's wishes straight at you.... and trying to wear goggles in a hot humid climate... and needing great light to check things... and trying to keep your arms raised above you for long periods of time... and then when you graduate to bifocals... FORGET IT !!!
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  #23  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
PlastiGuage is a Godsend for normal mechanics.. you have way more invested in those tools you mentioned that what it would cost to Plastiguage several engines ......
Even nicer is the fact that most people will get WAY closer to accurate with the plastiguage than with your equipment... which I know takes " FEEL" and practice to use...

http://www.plastigauge.com/
I just ordered some Plastigage from Summit Racing for a M117 motor I am working on for one of the 300SELs. I wish there was something similar for piston skirt clearance...
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  #24  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
I already tried the short route on so many things... and discovered it was actually the long route...
And because of that, nowadays the only route Greg will even begin to consider is the long one.
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  #25  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"There is significant risk when working upside down in unfamiliar territory."

Try twice having to get hold of my eye doctor to remove flecks of rust on my eyeball late in the evening or a weekend... ... very hard to see straight up... and then all that oil following gravity's wishes straight at you.... and trying to wear goggles in a hot humid climate... and needing great light to check things... and trying to keep your arms raised above you for long periods of time... and then when you graduate to bifocals... FORGET IT !!!
Aren't bifocals wonderful? Let's see--the top isn't right I'll try the bottom. That isn't right either. Oh hell I'll do it by the Braille system.
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  #26  
Old 03-28-2005, 02:51 PM
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Carrameow, sorry I'm coming into this late but I'm happy to see you are considering removing the engine. It really isn't too bad if you pull it with the trans. The last time I did it I put huge turnbuckles on the engine tilter and it made a big difference in ease. Once you get that engine on a stand and take off that upper pan you will be glad you did. Some of those allen screws seem to be such a risk to strip out even under ideal conditions - if you try to take that upper pan off in situ, I think that would be enough to make you give up on MB forever - I really think that it would do that for me.
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  #27  
Old 03-28-2005, 03:04 PM
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I have always thought that when you refresh an engine unless you refresh the accessories also you have really not increased your reliability very much. So I would pull the engine and refresh the alternator, starter, engine mounts, etc while you are at it.

If the car is not rust free I would not do this job.

Didn't you rebuild your 240 engine?
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  #28  
Old 03-28-2005, 03:20 PM
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"Aren't bifocals wonderful? Let's see--the top isn't right I'll try the bottom. That isn't right either."-- J.R.B.

After long consideration I have decided that my arms are the wrong length.
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  #29  
Old 03-28-2005, 03:25 PM
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Carrameow,

To use oversize bearings, sometimes called undersize bearings, the crankshaft must be reground. I had a rod bearing journal reground with the crankshaft in the engine in the car once but I don't know if there is enough room in a MB engine to have it done or if the process is still done.

Is it the bearing that is bad or is the rod journal also bad. You can usually tell if the journal is bad if it feels rough to the touch. You might measure journal with a micrometer to see if it is out of round.

I don't know how deep the hardening goes, so the journal might have to be rough ground, rehardened and finish ground.

P E H
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  #30  
Old 03-28-2005, 03:42 PM
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Why i considered the Lazy man alternative...

I got my 325 K from the car; and it went 30K even with the knocking...the car has started to rust, also. The seats are saggy.
I know all of us can make these cars last forever...but..when is enuff enuff..
Please dont get me wrong i don't do things half-a__ed --I considered rebuilding the motor, but when i rebuilt my 240D transmission and engine , a year later the car got totaled..

I can pick up a used motor for $400 maybe.
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