Injection pump timing - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dannym · #16 03-30-2005, 12:07 PM

Quote:

I never used anything except the 27mm crank bolt. I have to remove my fan first, as I don't have a fan clutch and it gets in the way of the ratchet. What other bolt is there to turn?

Anyone??

Stevo · #17 03-30-2005, 12:21 PM

dannym

I use the nut on the steering pump

boneheaddoctor · #18 03-30-2005, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

dannym

I use the nut on the steering pump

Me too......down side to that is we will have a SOB of a time to get that pully off after doing it. Its not the recomended method.

leathermang · #19 03-30-2005, 12:33 PM

The Mercedes factory shop manual specifies not using anything except the crank bolt....

Rick Miley · #20 03-30-2005, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Does a non-turbo have a rack damper?

It's a 5 cylinder thing, not a turbo thing. The 4-bangers don't have them.

1985 300SD Sady · #21 03-30-2005, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Miley

It's a 5 cylinder thing, not a turbo thing. The 4-bangers don't have them.

Thats what I thought, thanks,

Stevo · #22 03-30-2005, 09:17 PM

"Its not the recomended method."

I knew I'd catch it for that

OK, my take on it is that.. if I need to get the pulley off I would use an impact wrench, fact is I think you need one, sorta like getting the pulley off the alternator. anybody else bugger up a pulley trying to hold it in the vice? So if you don't have an impact wrench you better go call on somebody that does

It sure makes life easy when adjusting valves or timing. Maybe when I get a shop assistant she can lay on the floor and turn the engine from the crank and I'll adjust the valves

boneheaddoctor · #23 03-30-2005, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

"Its not the recomended method."

I knew I'd catch it for that

OK, my take on it is that.. if I need to get the pulley off I would use an impact wrench, fact is I think you need one, sorta like getting the pulley off the alternator. anybody else bugger up a pulley trying to hold it in the vice? So if you don't have an impact wrench you better go call on somebody that does

It sure makes life easy when adjusting valves or timing. Maybe when I get a shop assistant she can lay on the floor and turn the engine from the crank and I'll adjust the valves

I do my valves that way.......not "the recomended way" but heck....you can't be under the car and above it at the same time.

Stevo · #24 03-30-2005, 09:48 PM

"you can't be under the car and above it at the same time".

True, so I spoz bottem line is.. if you dont have an impect wrench get a shop assistent

boneheaddoctor · #25 03-30-2005, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

"you can't be under the car and above it at the same time".

True, so I spoz bottem line is.. if you dont have an impect wrench get a shop assistent

I have an impact wrench if it comes down to it........I'll worry about it then.

leathermang · #26 03-31-2005, 06:15 AM

Well, no wonder you guys are arguing this point... You have Totally Missed the physics question.

It is not the nut holding the PS pulley on which you have to worry about... it comes off fine...

The pulley and shaft for the PS pump ARE TAPERED.... As you put TOO much torque to the nut holding it on it when you turn the engine with it... you make it an interference type fit... you have deformed the inside of the pulley and locked it on the tapered shaft...

TCane and I spent 30 minutes with torch and hammers and a good vise getting his off because the PO had used it to turn the engine...

Doktor Bert · #27 04-03-2005, 02:06 PM

All I ever do with the pump is stab it in place at 24-26 degrees. I just line up the marks on the pump drive, align the pointer on 24-26 degrees on the compression stroke and insert the pump with the studs in the middle of the slots on the pump housing.

Total timing is around 32-34 degrees taking into account the 8 degrees of advance provided by the timing assembly...Bert

Stevo · #28 04-03-2005, 05:33 PM

Bert

"Total timing is around 32-34 degrees taking into account the 8 degrees of advance provided by the timing assembly"

Dont quite follow you there, The 8 degrees is just taken care of "automatically" by the timing devise, right??
Thanks

JimmyL · #29 04-04-2005, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

All I ever do with the pump is stab it in place at 24-26 degrees. I just line up the marks on the pump drive, align the pointer on 24-26 degrees on the compression stroke and insert the pump with the studs in the middle of the slots on the pump housing.

Total timing is around 32-34 degrees taking into account the 8 degrees of advance provided by the timing assembly...Bert

If I am following this, I set the marks on the balancer at the pointer at the 24 degree mark. (would this be to the passenger or driver side of the '0'?) on the compression stroke. How do I recognize the compression stroke?
I have the week off, and I need to try and get the wagon going, so I may try to remove the IP and reinstall, just to make sure it was in the right place and not a tooth off. Then try the drip or bubble method to set IP.
Preferably I would have had someone do this, but the mechanic I have been recommended to won't return my calls, so I may give it a shot.

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