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  #16  
Old 04-04-2005, 02:17 AM
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Now that I think of it, $40 is a pretty steep price for what's essentially some wire, a fuseholder, and the actual fuse. You could probably build something identical and watertight too, with $5 worth of parts from your local Kragen/Autobone/Pep Boyz store...

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  #17  
Old 04-05-2005, 02:17 AM
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UPDATE:
Well, I placed the old OEM fuse in slot #8, and no melting! So, today's lesson, never use a Buss brand ceramic fuse in that troublesome slot, only OEM. I found out that one of my old 16A fuses was copper tipped, but it was old, and I could hardly see the copper color, so that one will probably be going in #8. I've noticed since I've changed out all of my fuses, things that didn't work or light up before are now lighting up, and the instrument cluster is a little brighter, but I still can't see the numbers well.
-Joe
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2005, 10:05 PM
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Fuse follow-up ...

I have been reading your April thread with interest tonight as my A/C went from hero to zero in the space of ~5 minutes. When I arrived home, I looked down to find my A/C compressor engaged but the aux. fan on my(it usually is with the mid 90 deg afternoons in Houston -as you well know)'82 300D would not operate. Your thread is timely as I too looked at my fuses but could not see any failures; they are, however, all tin and not the copper you mentioned. If I understood correctly, you changed all your "tin" fuses for "copper" fuses - along with cleaning the receptors - and everything functioned normally afterward?
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2005, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archibald2
I have been reading your April thread with interest tonight as my A/C went from hero to zero in the space of ~5 minutes. When I arrived home, I looked down to find my A/C compressor engaged but the aux. fan on my(it usually is with the mid 90 deg afternoons in Houston -as you well know)'82 300D would not operate. Your thread is timely as I too looked at my fuses but could not see any failures; they are, however, all tin and not the copper you mentioned. If I understood correctly, you changed all your "tin" fuses for "copper" fuses - along with cleaning the receptors - and everything functioned normally afterward?
Yes, everything went well, until, it started all over again. My indy told me the cause is a faulty blower fan motor, and if I ran it at MAX, it would blow the fuse. So to save a couple of hundred dollars, I run it at the coldest temp setting on the automatic fan speed setting, and it keeps me nice and cool during these hot days in Houston. Take that #8 fuse out and take a good look at it, clean the receptors, change all those fuses out to copper and don't run the blower fan on MAX, although sometimes, when I turn the A/C on, I turn on the MAX blower fan speed setting, hit the passenger side kickpanel to get it running, and hit auto, it's tedious to do, and I could fix it by either replacing the brushes or motor, but hey, it works. If you have more problems, just let me know. BTW- What part of Houston do you reside in?
-Joe
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-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Last edited by H-townbenzoboy; 06-08-2005 at 12:45 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2005, 10:12 AM
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fusebox "fix"

see post number 6 (upper left of photo) for an example of how not to wire your fusebox....
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2005, 01:15 PM
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Houston ...

Joe,

I live in the North West part of Houston. Some refer to it as Copperfield - Hwy. 6, FM 529, Barker-Cypress, and Logenbaugh. Work is in the area bounded by Hwy. 6, Memorial, Eldridge, & I-10. Are you nearby?

Thank-you for the reply and sharing your experience with fuses.

Stuart
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'10 VW Jetta TDI 65K (traded)
'12 Nissan Leaf 34K (returned end of lease)
'15 Audi A6 TDI 25K (traded)
'95 E320 166K (traded)
'93 300D 2.5 Turbo 168K (sold)
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2005, 01:29 PM
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I'm pretty far from you, I live just south of downtown Houston. It seems as if most of the Mercedesshop members in Houston live in the northern regions.
-Joe
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Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2005, 01:40 PM
cmichalik
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No me. I live tot eh southeast in Deer Park and commute to Westheimer and Beltway 8.

So about your fuses. I was having the same problem last summer and made up my own fuse relocation kit like the one you posted a link to. It worked for a while, but the high amount of heat that this circut generates melted the solder I used to make all the connections. I cacn run mine on the high fan speed setting, but not for long periods of time. Why did your indy tell you it would pop the fuse I wonder? I'd REALLY like to kow why this circuit gets so hot. All my problems started when my fuse box melted to the point of no return. To fix it I had to either replace the box or relocate the fuse, so I chose the lesser of two evils.

Be carefull w/ the cheap fuses from auto parts stores. They are made of plastic. IMHO the good ones are made of ceramic.

THe A/C is the only thing about the car that make me want to sell it and find another car.
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  #24  
Old 06-08-2005, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmichalik
Why did your indy tell you it would pop the fuse I wonder?
I think I read the reason why on the board somewhere. It has to do with bushings binding in the blower motor and it creates a massive power draw. You can read more about it here.
fusebox "fix"

-Joe

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-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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