I had an internal failure of my steering lock cam which means the electrical switch on the back of the steering lock was not rotating. End result is "no crank". The disassembly has been a little bit of a learning experience, especially since the maintenance CD assumes that every thing is turning together. Not being a professional, I was unfamiliar with the internal hardware and it is like reinventing the wheel. I have a pretty long post on the tech forum which you will see my fumbling along, but finally understanding everything (I think). It might be good reading if you have never taken one apart. I am just happy as a clam it failed in my garage and not in a parking lot somewhere!

Hello Everyone
I can not seem to find the refered to post?
Did it get deleted?
Perhaps I am going blind?

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Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
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Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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I am in the middle of this nightmare myself. When I got my 240D it had a generic ignition tumbler in it. I replaced this with the proper tumbler from mbz so that I could use the door locks. After starting the car, I had to jiggle the key backwards to enable use of the electrical accessories. I replaced the actual switching mechanism behind the tumblers, noting that the existing switch had junkyard ID painted on it. I could not replace the ignition tumblers again. When I had the steering lock/tumbler mechanism out of the car, I could put every thing together, tumbler,collar, steering lock and all and it would work OK. I figured if the front and back ends of the switch were worn oput, perhaps the middle was too, so I got a new steering lock assembley and put it together on the bench, and it worked fine. I installed it in the car, and could not get the collar on. I poke a wire into the tumbler and the key drops into place, but the tumbler wont go into the lock body far enough. All keys and slots seem to be aligned properly, it just won't go together. I removewd it from the car again, and now I can't get it together again at all. Tomorrow I will try it again, I am sure I am overlooking some simple step, but I cant figure out what I am doing wrong. I don't mean to hi-jacj this thread, I am just frustrated. thanks, david

whunter

Just in case you had not noticed, the original posting in this thread was posted in the year 2000 !! That could explain why you can not seem to find the refered to post over in Tech section.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

The original post is here..

In case you hadn't noticed, there is a search button at the bottom of every post. Clicking that button will take you to a list of every post the person has ever made. Thankfully, it was Deezul and not LarryBible or stevebfl, so it didn't take too long to locate the thread.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

I did use the search button.
That is why:
Perhaps I am going blind?
Thank you for the help Rick.
P.S.
I did notice the post date, but the topic was very interesting, to me.

I didn't mean that to sound condescending, and apologize if it did. Many people don't know what all the buttons on these crowded screens do, so I thought it necessary to point that one out. It can be a very handy feature.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

I finally found my problem, I had bent the part that recieves the tumbler mechanism so that there was an interference of about .005, more than enough to cause a problem, but not enough to see readily. I am up and running now.