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#1
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Overheating question?
Hi gang, I recently rear ended someone and bashed in the whole front of my 300d. Got a radiator, fan clutch, ac condensor, and grill, and then went to work and put the car back together. I straightend it out rather nicely, however, now it runs hot. It always stayed just above 80c even on hot days in Los Angeles. Sometimes it would go to 90c or 95c with the a/c on in a traffic jam. Now it stays around 90c and will go right up to 100c at the slightest incline. Everything seems to be in good working order: the waterpump is good, new fan clutch, new auxillary fan, 50/50 mix of qualily coolant, and redline water wetter. The only thing slightly out of order was that there was too much coolant in the reservoir, so I siphoned some out to the proper level. Could it be THAT simple? Am I missing something else? This car has always ran cool and I want it to continue. It is, by the way, a 3 row radiator. The same as the one I crunched.
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1982 300D Turbo "Helga" 380,000 miles |
#2
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You don't mention thermostat, which I assumed you changed, as they don't function well after overheating, another of my assumptions about the crash.
What temp was the original? The one you changed? What about the radiator cap? They come in different flavors, and can affect temp... Can someone more knowlegeable offer more here?
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#3
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Over heating
Did you "burp" or purge the air from your cooling system after the overhaul? Run her up to temp, with the engine running, park her nose up on an incline, loosen overflow tank cap, bounce front bumper up and down. This should burp the trapped air out the cooling system. This worked for me.
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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#4
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BWatson,
Was the replacement radiator new? P E H |
#5
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I had a new Behr thermostat do that to me before, it was between 0-10*F outside and at the same time my climate control was acting up. So I was driving around with the car running right at 100*F, but no heat. At least I had my seat heater installed. Anyway I installed a new Whaler thermostat after this and haven't had any problems since.
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#6
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BWatson
As was already mentioned, probably air in the system. when the system has been completely drained this is what I do...Raise front of car, disconnect "head to firewall" heater hose at firewall, wire up the end, Pour coolant into the upper radiator hose (disconnected at the radiator so its going into the eng) till it comes out the heater hose. reconnect everything, Start the car, turn on the heater full blast, when heat comes out your "home free"
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#7
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I have one of those flush tees in the firewall heater hose above the oil filter, and hook up the garden hose to it, so after the flush, that block is filled with water.
Dosen't seem to need a burp after that....
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
#8
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There are two different types of thermostat housings...
One has an internal tube for self burping.. This may account for different reports as to the need for burping.... |
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