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  #31  
Old 04-04-2005, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomJ
You don't have to get metric, just get O-rings that fit, anything will do and any HW store should have them. 1/4" (.250) ID X 1/6" (.0625) CS will work just fine.
UM...recheck that size......1/4" is WAY WAY too small to stretch over the shaft.......

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  #32  
Old 04-04-2005, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
UM...recheck that size......1/4" is WAY WAY too small to stretch over the shaft.......
1/4" ID. If you're using 6mm ID rings, that's even smaller than 1/4" (0.236)
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  #33  
Old 04-27-2005, 05:10 PM
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If you are not happy with ordinary black O rings you can go to an industrial supply house and get better, hi temp O rings in green or brown rubber (I think it's silicone).

I used to replace the O rings on my VW camper's pushrod tubes. They used the regular black rings at the block end, the hi temp (green) ones at the head end.

From the dealer a set cost $85, the exact same thing from an industrial supply house cost $14.

You really don't need them, but the hi temp ones will remain soft longer and not need replacing so often. Might be useful if you use synthetic oil with long drain intervals.
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  #34  
Old 04-27-2005, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganaraska
If you are not happy with ordinary black O rings you can go to an industrial supply house and get better, hi temp O rings in green or brown rubber (I think it's silicone).

I used to replace the O rings on my VW camper's pushrod tubes. They used the regular black rings at the block end, the hi temp (green) ones at the head end.

From the dealer a set cost $85, the exact same thing from an industrial supply house cost $14.

You really don't need them, but the hi temp ones will remain soft longer and not need replacing so often. Might be useful if you use synthetic oil with long drain intervals.
I suspect that the "green or brown" o-rings suggested for higher-temperature use may well have been Viton, the same material that TomJ was suggesting for the stem of the oil filter housing.
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  #35  
Old 04-27-2005, 06:42 PM
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Synthetic Oil for a diesel?

Do you think synthetic oil is a good idea for a diesel because of the accumulation of soot? I've been using 15-40 and changing oil at least every 3,000 miles.
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  #36  
Old 04-27-2005, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eskimo
I suspect that the "green or brown" o-rings suggested for higher-temperature use may well have been Viton, the same material that TomJ was suggesting for the stem of the oil filter housing.
Until l researched this a bit, I thought a green CR or neoprene Orings used for refrigerant applications would work as well in place of black rubber rings (see below). Viton appears the best material.

From http://www.sealdynamics-oem.com/gaskets-elastomeric-materials.htm

Fluorocarbon, Viton, Fluorel, or FKM
Fluorocarbon combines resistance to a broader range of chemicals than any of the other elastomers. It constitutes the closest available approach to the universal O-ring elastomer. Although most fluorocarbon compounds become quite hard at temperatures below -4°F (-20°C), they do not easily fracture, so they are serviceable at much lower temperatures. Fluorocarbon compounds provide a continuous 437"F (225°C) high temperature capability.

Advantages:
Excellent chemical resistance
Excellent heat resistance
Good mechanical properties
Good compression set resistance
Disadvantage: Fair low temperature resistance


Chloroprene, Neoprene, or CR
Neoprene is a polymer of chlorobutadiene and is unusual In that it is moderately resistant to both petroleum oils and weather (ozone, sunlight, oxygen). This qualifies neoprene for O-ring service where many other elastomers would not be satisfactory. It is also used extensively for sealing refrigeration fluids. Neoprene has good compression set characteristics and a temperature range of -67"F to 284°F (-55°C to 140°C).

Advantages:
Moderate weather resistance
Moderate 0 resistance
Versatile
Disadvantage: Moderate solvent and water resistance

FWIW. Another reference http://www.oringsusa.com/html/fluid_compat.html says Neoprene is marginal when used with 10W40 (engine lubricating oil). I would therefore avoid using a green O-ring on a MB Filter stem.
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Last edited by dieseldiehard; 04-27-2005 at 07:13 PM.
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  #37  
Old 04-27-2005, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphinSL
Do you think synthetic oil is a good idea for a diesel because of the accumulation of soot? I've been using 15-40 and changing oil at least every 3,000 miles.
Note: The subject of engine oil for a particular application is well covered on the ShopForum. Please use the search feature.
Plenty of reading material is there for your immediate perusal.
Also, when you post a query, its not only helpful but necessary that you advise what model car or type of engine you have and where you are located.
For example in some engines it doesn't matter much at all what oil is used while in others, with hydraulic lifters for example, the general recommendation is to use synthetic oil. Also the type of oil best suited to your climate depends on whether you are in Siberia or Alaska or wherever its cold (ie sub zero) or in Death Valley
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  #38  
Old 04-27-2005, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard
Until l researched this a bit, I thought a green CR or neoprene Orings used for refrigerant applications would work as well in place of black rubber rings (see below). Viton appears the best material.

(snip)

FWIW. Another reference http://www.oringsusa.com/html/fluid_compat.html says Neoprene is marginal when used with 10W40 (engine lubricating oil). I would therefore avoid using a green O-ring on a MB Filter stem.
I don't dispute that green is commonly used on o-rings for refrigeration use, but it's also used sometimes for seals made of Viton (or similar compounds). I've seen Viton o-rings in black, brown, and green. In the settings in which I've seen them, I suspect that brown and green were used to distinguish them from nitrile o-rings.

I agree, I wouldn't choose a green o-ring if I just happened to find it somewhere and didn't know of what material it was made. I'd also have my doubts about a black o-ring under the same circumstances. Not all that's black is nitrile, and some of the stuff used in domestic plumbing isn't a great choice for hot motor oil, either.

If I were to buy Viton seals, though, and they happened to be green, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

Last edited by Eskimo; 04-27-2005 at 09:50 PM. Reason: corrected "loose" to "lose" (used to be able to spell)
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  #39  
Old 04-27-2005, 08:19 PM
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Personally I would rather use a silicone O-ring unless it had strength issues (its prone to tearing easily and can cold flow more than other materials) but I don't have any.

But what I should have said, that you said well, was that one should know what material an O-ring is and make a determination on whether or not to use it based on knowledge of its composition, not color.

Ordering from McMaster Carr is one way to go if you meet their minimum order, buying (or receiving free from the dealer) is another (quicker) way.

Educating each other and any new DIY'ers that "tune in" is what is important here. I like studying things even if I buy my part down the street or from a mail order house.
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  #40  
Old 04-27-2005, 09:44 PM
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I don't think McMaster has a minimum order, I've never hit it at least.

I now have Viton o-rings on my filter stem, thanks for the advice.
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  #41  
Old 04-28-2005, 12:27 PM
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Oil filter "O" rings, 82 240D

I appreciate the help given in discovering the existence of those oil filter O rings on my 82 240D. I went to the local Mercedes dealer to be sure to get the right size O rings without taking out the filter and going to the local auto parts store. I was pleasantly surprised when the parts man just handed me the O rings for free. When I went to remove the old ones, they truly just shattered, being so hard. In reading further threads, some people recommend Viton and other such O rings of special materials. I hope that what I got at the dealer is also very good quality.
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  #42  
Old 04-29-2005, 01:05 AM
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The O rings that came on the car lasted 15 years and they still flexed when I pulled them off. I'd stay with the OE rings. Of course I've only used dino oil, mostly Rotella T 15-40. Syn. oil might harden the rings.

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