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  #1  
Old 04-04-2005, 05:43 PM
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re: rear hydraulic on 300td

seems like lot of people have trouble with these (me included) when i do a search ive found theres lots of stuff about people with problems but i havent found anyone whos resolved the problem either with just disconnecting the system and installing bilstiens or whatever...can i hear from a few poeple who either rpaired thier systems or replaced them...what did it cost? etc?
im new here and really happy to have found you all.
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  #2  
Old 04-04-2005, 05:57 PM
R Leo's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade
seems like lot of people have trouble with these (me included) when i do a search ive found theres lots of stuff about people with problems but i havent found anyone whos resolved the problem either with just disconnecting the system and installing bilstiens or whatever...can i hear from a few poeple who either rpaired thier systems or replaced them...what did it cost? etc?
im new here and really happy to have found you all.
Welcome to the forum!

You cannot find any success stories about disconnecting the system or replacing with Bilsteins because that doesn't work. The only way to fix this system is to use the proper replacement parts....it's really the best way!

Because of currency exchange rates, prices for parts are highly subjective. I suggest you reread the posts you found to determine the correct plan of action and parts necessary for repair and then surf the site of our sponsor (Fastlane) for the latest prices of the components needed to complete the repair (accumulators, struts etc...).

Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2005, 06:14 PM
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Leo's right the best option is to fix what's broken. Usually it's the accumulators that go first resulting in a harsh ride with no shock absorbing action. I the suspension sags it could be a leaking control valve that can be rebuilt. The big buck items are the hydralic struts and pump. Since the existing springs share the load with the hydralic shocks you would have to get heavy duty springs if you remove the system. The end result will be a wagon that rides like a dump truck.
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2005, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade
but i havent found anyone whos resolved the problem either with just disconnecting the system and installing bilstiens or whatever.
You can't find it because it hasn't really happened yet. The most expensive parts for the wagon SLS are also the most reliable, but if you have to suck it up for a high dollar part it is worth it. Since the hydraulic shocks rarely fail, you should be able to find a used one from someone. Maybe the same with the hydraulic pump. The valve assy has a rebuild kit. The accumulators are about $100 bucks apiece, and almost always are the problem. If your shocks don't leak they are probably good.
A properly working wagon SLS is a very nice system, and is worth every penny. Promise...
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'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2005, 10:44 PM
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wow...thanks all...for the hell of it... i went to my local pik-n'-pull

and there were no less than 3 300tds ...that made me feel alot better about restoring my sls ... will keep you posted
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2005, 11:16 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade
and there were no less than 3 300tds ...that made me feel alot better about restoring my sls ... will keep you posted
If the price is right at the yards you ought to get all that you can. TD's are RARE at the yards.
Cylinder heads would nice too, but that would be quite a job. (unless your MTUpower )
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2005, 12:38 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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Don't bother with the old, used accumulators as they will likely be bad or close to it. Those are also the cheapest and easiest to replace so when/if you rebuild I'd suggest you use new accumulators.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2005, 12:50 PM
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Yikes, Just checked my hydraulic fluid and it's empty! Is it bad to drive without any? Is my motor already burnt out probably? I looked under the rear of the car and there is black oil all over the diff. and the suspension, looks like there were some drips coming off the hose coming out of the little black sphere! ****!
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2005, 01:00 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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A pump running dry is never good. You may be OK still if it's not been dry very long but it sounds like you at least need to replace the flexible lines that attach to the accumulators. Before you do, be sure the fittings are tight. You should use a flare wrench on these and be careful not to overtorque them (which may have already happened) or they will strip.

CAUTION: Be SURE you only use the right kind of mineral based oil in the suspension system. You can buy it at any dealer, here at FastLane or at some better parts stores. Use the wrong fluid (like brake fluid) and it will dissolve all your internal seals!
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2005, 01:17 PM
cmichalik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
The valve assy has a rebuild kit.
A properly working wagon SLS is a very nice system, and is worth every penny. Promise...
The valve assy has a rebuild kit? That's great news b/c mine is leaking and I've been trying to decide on what to do about it. I looked up the price of a new assy and had to run and hide b/c of sticker shock. yikes, the SLS is high $$$$.

Does Fastlane have the rebuild kit?

ANd I agree w/ the last statment. A properly working system is very nice.
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2005, 01:30 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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Rebuild kit MB P/N# 000-586-00-32 called a "washer set". Cost $63.68 at the dealer a year ago. Phil can probably get one for you but given the weak $ I'm guessing it costs more now. Do a search for more info on how to actually rebuild it, it's not a bad project.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2005, 01:10 PM
cmichalik
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Cool. Thanks for the part number. I'll give Phil a call about it.

An aditional question. How much hydrolic fluid does the SLS hold? I don;t have my owners manual handy right now. Last night I check the resivoir & the fluid level was about an inch below the "max" line. Since I kjnow I have a leak and don;t know how soon I'll get to it, I ordered 3 liters from Fastlane this morning. Hopefully they will get here before friday. We ahve a trip planned soon and I don't want to be forced into taking the truck.
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2005, 01:49 PM
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I had a rear shock blow its seal on a very cold morning in West Texas, I left almost a liter of fluid on the pavement at a Motel. I had no block heater and the engine was in need of rebuilding (I discovered later that I had a cracked ring). Fortunately for me, I carried 2 bottles of the fluid on the cross country trip (and still do whenever I am away from home) I only added one bottle and was able to make it back to CA. With a slow leak you might not use more than one bottle but having a few extra with you would be cheap insurance, as running the pump dry would not be a good thing. I had the SLS shocks replaced (ouch!) but I am still driving that car and its still level some 5 - 6 years later.

1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441
1979 300TD w/ 85 turbo engine 296650
1983 300D 243280
1985 300TD 223470
1987 300D 262300
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  #14  
Old 04-06-2005, 03:32 PM
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Wink

on the valve rebuild topic.ive noticed the valve body is aluminum the hydraulic lines ares steel.a match made in hell.has anyone successfully removed the lines without destroying the valve body?i changed out my accumulaters recently.hell of a job on a 15 yr old car.be prepared to bust a few knuckles
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