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#1
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some very basic help please: how to remove hydropneumatic shock
i wanna pull some off of a 300td at my local pik n' pull
keep in mind that i can do it carelessly as the car is junked thanks so much everyone |
#2
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You need to wait until someone that knows about this system posts...
because some of those things are under pressure... and you need to wear goggles when you do this job.... I don't know which parts need to be handled certain ways to keep from losing the prime , etc... |
#3
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Quote:
I remember dad got a jet of high pressure into his thumb and it made it through the skin after some line popped off of some aircraft ground equipment he was working on and shot a particle into his thumb then injected hyd. fluid. That was not very good times...that mental picture keeps me from playing too much with this stuff anymore. I think some mechanics gloves would have helped... |
#4
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Doubtful that any pressure remains but just in case wear safety glasses and wrap a rag around the wrench and fitting when removing. As the above post says, it can penetrate your skin. Other than than, its just intelligent grunt work. You're not worried about the lines so even a set of diagonal cutters can be used instead of the proper flare nut wrenches.
__________________
Hanno '79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years) '83 280SL, 5 spd. '94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion '02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!) '87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold '05 E500 Wagon |
#5
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okay...honestly
i already removed the accumulators...i think that because its been sitting there is no more pressure...but...i really dont even know what hole you can fit the shock out of (the bottom....the top....the one on the top off to the side thats square with a vinal plug) ...do i have to remove the spring first?
if i do have to remove the spring then i would have to compress it and thats getting a bit involved for me ... |
#6
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Quote:
First of all, inside the cargo area, remove the narrow carpet-covered metal panel that is betweeen the back of the seatback and the rest of the cargo floor. Underneath that panel, there are two socket bolts that hold the top of the shock to the body. Remove these bolts. Next, just below those bolts remove the two rubber plugs and access the hydraulic lines that connect to the shocks. Disconnect the lines. Finally, remove the bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the trailing arm and extract the shock from the trailing arm.
__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#7
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thanks r leo
...i did get them out today and took em up to the window to pay and nearly fainted when he only charged me 4 dollars each.... so far thats 8bucks for the shocks...,5 bucks for the pump and 10 dollars for the accumulators so it seems ive restored the entire system for 23 dollars
yeow!...i love it! |
#8
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I wouldn't waste much time on accumulators, though.
__________________
Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#9
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"I remember dad got a jet of high pressure into his thumb and it made it through the skin "---Brandon
I knew an Industrial Arts teacher that shot some kerosene into his finger when cleaning a paint gun.... the doctors had to open up the finger next to that one and sew the skin up between them.... I don't remember if that was permanent or just for months while the skin healed...OUCH... ... it will make a believer out of a kid seeing those things happen to others... |
#10
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...watching out for someone elses idiotic repairs causing injury to an unknowing mechanic... |
#11
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__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
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