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  #1  
Old 04-10-2005, 12:21 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Location: Hells half acre (Great Falls, Virginia)
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Found out why my 116 has been sluggish......

OK....this dates back to the fall before the first snow.....when I had the loss of power issue....and IP was swapped trying to find it....

Was doing the fuel welling up method....and found my IP timing to be 15 degrees before TDC.....and I thought I had it right before. Well thats explains the harder starting and the white smoke when cold at startup.

Now I really don't want to pull that oil filter tower again....so I am figuring out how to get that rear braket bolt off to remove the ip and reinsert it. Now I don't have small hands and this ain't gonna be easy. Since I want to turn up my IP a tad since my EGT was well in the safe range. I really am not looking at doing this twice much less once.....

Just how in the heck did you guys get the rear bolt off and back on.

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1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2005, 02:22 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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I was hoping someone could enlighten me in this near phyical impossibility....or could someone loan me their personal elf whos small size would make this easier to do.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2005, 03:44 PM
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Check with 1985 300SD Sady. He's probably had the IP off more times then anyone on the forum.
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2005, 05:21 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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I finally got it off.....Funny...the ip was marked exactly as it should be but was delivering fuel about 10 degrees retarded......

Damper was at 24 degrees BTC........IP came out with mark at the notch yet was starting to well up fuel at 13 degrees BTC........


Now I have no idea how I am getting that bolt for the bracket back in.........with the oil filter town in place.....
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2005, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
I finally got it off.....Funny...the ip was marked exactly as it should be but was delivering fuel about 10 degrees retarded......

Damper was at 24 degrees BTC........IP came out with mark at the notch yet was starting to well up fuel at 13 degrees BTC........


Now I have no idea how I am getting that bolt for the bracket back in.........with the oil filter town in place.....
This IP repositioning I guess is just more than my pea brain can imagine (since I have never actually SEEN it happen). To change the position of the IP reletive to the engine timing, isn't it the sprocket/chain relationship that has to be changed, since the IP gap-thing lines up a certain way. Or is this a case of just an idiot (me) just going on info I have read without a visual point of reference?
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2005, 09:15 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Location: Hells half acre (Great Falls, Virginia)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
This IP repositioning I guess is just more than my pea brain can imagine (since I have never actually SEEN it happen). To change the position of the IP reletive to the engine timing, isn't it the sprocket/chain relationship that has to be changed, since the IP gap-thing lines up a certain way. Or is this a case of just an idiot (me) just going on info I have read without a visual point of reference?
The gear on the timing chain is a male splined shaft....no keys.

The IP is also a round splined shaft....but it has a single notch missing for a visual reference.....

The coupleler shaft is a female splined shaft a little less than 2 inches long (I never measured it)

the IP can be interted in any position the splines line up....as they are not keyed....I am thinking the other IP I had may have been the odd series that was mismarked in reference to all the rest even though the serial number would dictate otherwise...I was ultra careful....in fact I lined the motor up to 24 btdc...Pulled the IP and low and behold its on the money with the mark yet is about 10 degrees retarded when I do the wellling fuel methed of timing which seems to be accurate as its a little slow to fire and smokes at startup cold...now this is a car that once started very quickly before the IP was swapped trouble shooting my loss of power problem last fall. (resolved).

I swapped back the original IP today....but was dark when I got it running.....will drive it tomorrow to see how it runs then try to check the timing to see if its any closer to what it should be....

It actually ran great at low rpms with it retarded like that. It just ran like crap on the highway....power is way down off idle from the other way but it seems to start quicker...but haven't had it out on the road yet. I will do that tomorrow. Then I can worry about how to get that damned back bolt back in.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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