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#1
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W210 longevity - highest miles
I can't help but smile every time I see an "older" benz driving around town that I just know even before I look that it's got a diesel model number on the trunk. I bought my 99 E300DT, having owned both new and used foreigns and domestics, because I was sick of the "cost of ownership". Between depreciation, insurance, cost of financing, repair, etc, the cost of owning a car is just plain depressing. My goal was simple: buy a car with an established reputation that will last for 20 years. I figured in the long run, I would come out ahead on cost, plus avoiding the hassle of the buying process every few years. Also required: I want to enjoy driving the car each and every time I get in it. So far, I'm good with the enjoyment, but still "catching up" on the cost of ownership, as I've put over $3k into it in 2+ years. My question: is the goal achievable with this car? Reading the W210 roll-call shows some folks up well over 100k (I'm at 92k now). Realistically, am I gonna be the guy driving that "old benz" one day, with some young buck smiling as he goes by in his 2015 model? I've seen 20-year old Acura Legends out there, but it just ain't the same.
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#2
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That W210 is going to cost far more to keep in good working order for 20+ years than a W123 does.....and has.
Why...far fewer electronic widgets and dohickies to break.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#3
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1998 E300 with 232k here.
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#4
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1997 E300 with 164K...
I find it funny how people keep scaring each other about the w210 diesels because they actually have a computer. Most of the issues with these cars aren't even associated with the computer, usually it's the plastic fuel lines that give the most problem. These OM606 engines appear to be very solid built engines as in the past, with some modern advancements. I will agree that the plastic fuel lines requireing replacing and the huge intake manifold covering half the engine isn't a plus. But overall these engines are made to last. In a previous thread a while back there has been a member w/ a '96 E300 that had over 300K. A few weeks ago on eBay I saw a '97 E300 similar layout to mine with over 230K on the clock. Some may disagree with me, but these w210's are vehicle made to be driven and are rather straight forward to repair, if you have a forum like this and common sense. Having a little prior diesel experience also helps!
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#dieselFLEET --------------- '97 E300 '99 E300 |
#5
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Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#6
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Quote:
These cars are more prone to other possible issue with the chassis such as a the front spring perches and rust on some cars...
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#dieselFLEET --------------- '97 E300 '99 E300 |
#7
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I agree.. I've spent a good amount of time under the hood of my E300.. removed the intake manifold about 5 times for access to lines, etc.. very simple. The car appears to be very straight-foward and easy to work on. Even the thermostat took only a few minutes to replace.
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#8
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I don't know the electronics on my 18 year old W126 are holding up pretty well. The W210 isn't that much more complicated unless you load it up with options. The only thing I would worry about is that key the 210's use. That seems like something that will break and cost a few bucks to fix. Overall I find the W210's to be very simple and diy'er friendly cars to work on. Going from a 617-606 their would be a little bit of a learning curve, but going from a 603-606 their is almost none.
Another possible downside is the trans cost a bit to get rebuilt, I keep hearing $3k-$4k. On the other hand the older trans are about $1,500. So changing that stupid filled for life fluid is a very good idea. $200 every 60k miles is cheap if you can get another 50k-100k out of the trans.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#9
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I bought my '98 in January. Spent some time and money on it immediately after purchase on PM items (Transmission service, GPs, fluids, filters, fuel lines and a few miscellanous leaks). The car had been dealer maintained its whole life but a few items, such as the 722.6 tranny were overlooked. Fortunately the cooling system and brakes were well tended to.
I spent a total of about $1500 on it for the PM items I deemed necessary, including a new set of Pirelli P6s immediately after buying it even though not one of the things I corrected would have prevented the car from running fine without having done it. My thinking was I am keeping this one a long time and want to start with a baseline of good PM and no fluid leaks of any kind. Since then I have put about 3K miles on it and never had any issues really other than the MAF sensor which took about 5 minutes to identify and replace for $150. So, for what I have in the car (about $15,500 total) I expect I will get to 200K easily and probably well beyond it without really bad repairs (hopefully).
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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