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  #1  
Old 04-12-2005, 02:10 AM
190D22's Avatar
Driver's Side lights
 
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Location: Columbus, Ohio
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Battery Died because it is not charging

I started the car tonight after work and the battery light was on. I was out tonight and the car wouldn't start. Luckily a friend was kind enough to jump me. He called me just as I discovered my helpless situation and before it hit me that roadside does free jump starts.

I am going to replace the voltage regulator first. What do you guys think? Hopefully one is nearby.

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  #2  
Old 04-12-2005, 08:09 AM
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Biodiesel brah!
 
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Just replaced my V.R. in my 300TD (non-turbo). It was really easy, took about 5 minutes. May be harder in the 190, I'm not familier with those. My alternator looked brand new practically, still had stickers on it, but the VR did look shot. All worn down and the contacts on it were like less than half the size of the new ones. Hopefully it'll work. It was cheap, I got mine from www.**************.com, and those guys there rock! Good luck,
Will
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  #3  
Old 04-12-2005, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190D22
I started the car tonight after work and the battery light was on. I was out tonight and the car wouldn't start. Luckily a friend was kind enough to jump me. He called me just as I discovered my helpless situation and before it hit me that roadside does free jump starts.

I am going to replace the voltage regulator first. What do you guys think? Hopefully one is nearby.
I like to troubleshoot the problem before I throw parts at it.

With the engine running at about 2000 rpm, put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. If it reads anything less than 13.2V then the alternator is the culprit. Of course, you can then try and change the VR in the hope that it cures the problem. No easy way to confirm a bad VR unless you have a test stand.
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  #4  
Old 04-12-2005, 04:22 PM
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Driver's Side lights
 
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Yes I did that test. The battery stayed at 12.4 volts with the engine going through its RPM range. The VR did not fix it. But damn were my old brushes worn down. The tech I like up at the MB dealer was perplexed the VR did not cure my charging issue. I think what happened is that when my belt tensioner (check out my other post) ****ed up it threw shards of metal everywhere. So I think the alternator ingested some debris because it is so local to the tensioner/waterpump area. So I am just going to get a new alternator, the 70A that autozone sells. It looks easy enough to replace. Only 130 bucks, 50 core. I may just keep my old one and see what I can tell with it.
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  #5  
Old 04-12-2005, 05:06 PM
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W109, Floating on air!!
 
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Generally if the brushes aren't the problem either a diode blew out or an armature winding came loose. I've seen both happen. Autozone rebuilds can be dicey think you get what you pay for. They paint them up real pretty though....
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Old 10-01-2006, 12:21 PM
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Bumping an old thread for cause...

I have the same problem with my 1983 300D. For a few weeks, the car intermittently needed jump-starting to start, and then would be ok for several starts after that. This morning, it won't start or even turn over, although the dome light comes on and I hear things happening under the hood when I turn the key, so I don't think the battery is completely dead.

My understanding is all I need to do to remove the voltage regulator is disconnect the negative battery terminal, unscrew the two screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator, remove, and inspect it. Anything else I need to do to not fry myself?

If that's not the culprit,

- replace fuses, just in case one's cracked and I don't see it
- check grounding strap between starter bolt (I think) and firewall

- is the next step to have the car towed for an alternator replacement? (I'm garageless and largely toolless, so attempting an alternator replacement myself is probably beyond my abilities right now.)
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Last edited by benzene; 10-01-2006 at 12:51 PM.
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  #7  
Old 10-01-2006, 12:50 PM
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Reverse lights! Score!
 
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Sounds like you've got it down. Don't forget to check out DieselGiant's page, here. He just did a writeup on this yesterday. I changed mine last night because there was about 2mm left of the carbon stacks.
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Last edited by Brian Carlton; 10-01-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-01-2006, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzene View Post
- is the next step to have the car towed for an alternator replacement? (I'm garageless and largely toolless, so attempting an alternator replacement myself is probably beyond my abilities right now.)
.......no, the next step is to have DieselGiant come over there and change it in about 10 minutes..........
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  #9  
Old 10-01-2006, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
.......no, the next step is to have DieselGiant come over there and change it in about 10 minutes..........
Goddamn, I ought to do that Because damned if I can get the VR off, one of the screws is squeezed up against some kind of shock/strut, as well as one of the AC lines. I'm about to go to the hardware store to try and get a screwdriver of some sort that will let me get in there Anyway...

Thanks
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  #10  
Old 10-01-2006, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzene View Post
Goddamn, I ought to do that Because damned if I can get the VR off, one of the screws is squeezed up against some kind of shock/strut, as well as one of the AC lines. I'm about to go to the hardware store to try and get a screwdriver of some sort that will let me get in there Anyway...

Thanks
Seriously, you might check with him.........he works on all kinds of vehicles........not sure how far he is from you, however.

One thing is for sure..........he's honest and he's an excellent technician.
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  #11  
Old 10-01-2006, 06:58 PM
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Here is the VR, the carbon things are pretty short so I suppose it is worth replacing...
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2006, 07:00 PM
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Oh God I Broke A Nail Guys
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