IP to Injector Lines Leaking
 

My '87 300TD has developed fuel leaks where the injector lines leave the IP. Acts as if it is losing (looks betterer than looses :rolleyes: ) prime and that makes sense to me. My book doesn't indicate if there are o'rings I need to replace or not. Still searching yet advice would be welcome . . .
Steve

nice to see you back here Steve. Those connections are just flare fittings. I would take them off, make sure they don't have a bit of crud in there, and then add just a little anti-sieze. Should tighten up fine and stop leaking without buying anything.

I'll bet your delivery valve seals are leaking. Do a search on "delivery valve seals" and that will tell you EXACTLY how to do it. I say exactly because there are a couple little things that MUST be done to insure no further leaking. You'll have to buy 6 rubber o-rings and 6 copper o-rings. I have 6 copper ones you can have for let's say $5 shipped. I ordered them at the MB dealer but I wanted to do it that day so I went to an indie an bought some to use on my car. The bag is still sealed so all you would need now would be the rubbr ones and try to find a member here who will rent you his special socket for removing the valves.

Thanks
David

Where is it leaking at, out the nut or out the top of the IP? Top of the IP would be delivery valve seals. If it is leaking out the nut, then the line could be broken right at the flare. One of mine broke right at the flare on the injector end. If it is the line broken, a 3/16" brass compression sleeve will seal it temporarily. Drove mine ~500 miles home like that and it worked just fine.

Top of the IP wet with fuel but lines dry? IP looses prime?

The 0-rings that seal the low pressure feed chamber have gone bad. Remove the injection lines completely, then unscrew the pressure valve holder (where the lines attach) one at a time and then replace the 0-rings. Torque the pressure valves to 25 ft/lbs, loosen, tighten to 25 ft/lbs, loosen, tighten to 30 ft/lbs. Watch for the spring that sits on top of the actual little valve in there, make sure it's where it belongs and is CLEAN if it comes out with the holder. You may also need to replace the copper seals (on top on later pumps, sometimes under the steel valve body inside the holder on older ones) if you have a dead cylinder after replacing the o-rings.

Peter

Top of the morning all. Thanks for the quick responses and I am about to go back to read them . . .

I did notice the question regarding the exact location of the leaks . . . top side of the IP, primarily three front injector lines, with upward seeping from the parts that the lines attach to. That is, the pieces (I need to find the name of those parts) that are actually held into the IP by the retainer plates. Each plate serves to retain two pieces and thereby two injection lines. Okay, now time for me to go back and read the details of your replies.

Pete,
Great to be back . . . time to move forward with my list of MB projects. I am supposed to be looking at a barn stored vintage in the next few days. They don't even know what model/year it is but say it is a diesel and the first $750 takes it. At least worth looking at since it is less than forty minutes away.
Steve

Delivery valve seals would be the culprit. The leaking is at the base of these valves and disperses over the tops of the retainer plates. I'll search for the R&R method.

David,
I'll take you up on the copper washers/o'rings if they are the same ones my '87 300TD 603 needs. I have some roof lube I'll send you also if you could use that . . .

I'll have to learn more about the tool to see if I should just buy one to have on hand or not . . .

Thanks ALL
Steve

David,
Just placed my order with Phil for parts and the splined socket. Figured I would do some additional replacements while working around the IP. Again I thank you for your offer on the copper seals and I hate to back out after writing I would take you up on the offer . . .

I'll post my results on this minor task . . . keep in mind I will soon have the splined socket so don't hesitate to ask to borrow it.
Steve

You didn't forget the rubber o-rings did you? All together there are 12 o-rings being replaced. Also, you'll want all the fuel line clips and backings as they'll break once you touch them.

Thanks
David

My order from Phil is to contain 6 neoprene o-rings, 6 copper crush washers/seals, 3 other seals he thought I may need, all new line clips and the splined socket. With a bit of luck that will get me through this minor task.

What I am still having to presume is the cause of the leakage . . . it began on one of the coldest mornings this past winter and I may not have had fuel additive of any significant concentration in the tank at that particular time. That situation was only once because I filled up w/o having a can left. Within a couple of days I resupplied and added one. I believe the first starting problem happend between . . . of course it may not be related yet for three of the fuel delivery valves to start leaking at once must have been caused by something significant. I am still too new to the diesel world and loving it . . .
Steve

Okay folks, I need some additional help here . . . some parts arrived and I do not believe they are what I need. Actually some might be and others certainly not.

Part # 0179974148 Injector Seal for 6
Part # 601 017 00 60 Injector Shield for 1
Part # 007603010100 Crush Washer for 2
Part # 007603012405 Seal for 4

The splined socket and fuel line brackets are correct yet now I am uncertain which of the above parts that arrived are supposed to allow me to replace the o-rings and crush washers for the pressure valve holders that thread into the top of the IP. If anyone has the correct parts numbers let me know so I can be darned certain this straightforward job goes smoothly. Thanks. Steve

You need the appropriate number of small (about 1/2") copper seals and rubber o-rings. I suspect you have the steel funny washer seals for the injectors instead. The appropriate part numbers have been posted, I don't have them to hand at the moment.

Peter

leaks
 

gee i just thought you might need to tighten them a little more. it is amazing how much you can torque those little dudes.

Job completed last night. No. It didn't take me this long to do it. In fact the actual time spent to R&R the six crush washers and six o'rings was probably about 1/2-1 hour. It wouldn't have taken that long if I hadn't created a goof. I reinstalled the lines and snugged the fittings prior to putting the valve retainer plates on. That didn't add much time but it made think I should have held off on the brews until after the job was completed.

Leaks are gone and it started immediately this morning. No more cranking to get the fuel to the combustion chambers!!!

This was certainly one of those jobs that make you wish you had a second one to do since it would take half the time next time . . .

Now on to the '84 300D's flex joint and support bearing project. That one I am not looking forward to.
Steve