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  #1  
Old 04-13-2005, 09:30 AM
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Want to borrow/rent - tools for Oil cooler

hose replacement.

Have you purchased or modified some wrenches for oil cooler hose replacement? How about you contact me? Perhaps we could make a win win arrnagement?

Rob M Concord, MA

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  #2  
Old 04-13-2005, 03:13 PM
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Location: Double Oak, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stayalert
hose replacement.

Have you purchased or modified some wrenches for oil cooler hose replacement? How about you contact me? Perhaps we could make a win win arrnagement?

Rob M Concord, MA
I replaced the hoses on my 84 300SD and did not need any special tools. The difficult parts are: (1) routing the new hoses--unbolt engine mount and engine shock on that side and jack engine up using a wooden block between the oil pan and the floor jack; and (2) removing the hoses from the cooler connections--mine stripped the aluminum threads on the lower cooler fitting but it "felt" OK while using wrench to turn--had to buy a new cooler from salvage. Consider heating the connection before trying to loosen.
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2005, 03:18 PM
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Thanks rockinwagin.....I wasn't sure if some extra-ordinary stubby wrenches or crow foor wrenches would be needed. I'm doing the shocks and mounts at the same time so I've got that going for me at least....
Regards,
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  #4  
Old 04-13-2005, 03:39 PM
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I welded up a wrench to make the job easier...it's like a flare wrench but with 12 points and reinforced. I've never seen one like it for sale. Now the bad news... I would be very reluctant to loan/send through the mail or rent this tool to anyone I don't know. Sorry.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2005, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad123D
I welded up a wrench to make the job easier...it's like a flare wrench but with 12 points and reinforced. I've never seen one like it for sale. Now the bad news... I would be very reluctant to loan/send through the mail or rent this tool to anyone I don't know. Sorry.
LOL. what a tease! No worries. If ya change yer mind let me know....I've been thinking lately about consumerism vs. self sufficiency.....I have a ton of tools and equipment that I use only occasionally.....Its great to have when you need it but for specialty stuff I've been trying to borrow or rent when it seems appropriate and might save me some $....Cheers
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~160K miles
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2005, 04:05 PM
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Get a can of PB blast.....soak it for a week....adn buy a set of metric flare wrenchs at home depot, sears or Lowes......they come in handy on tight nuts and bolts.
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2005, 04:16 PM
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Brad , How about a picture ? Wrench placed on a quadrille lined paper for picture would be even better...
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2005, 04:20 PM
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The big nut on the cooler lines is a 27mm. But since 1-1/16"=26.9875mm, the SAE wrench works just fine.
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  #9  
Old 04-13-2005, 04:20 PM
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I def. use alot of PB blaster, T-9, antisieze. I have sockets, gear wrenches, offset wrenches 1 or 2 metric flare wrenches, a few air tools and a compressor, The oil cooler hoses are BIG. Those sizes of wrenches I don't have.
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  #10  
Old 04-13-2005, 04:34 PM
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Rob,

Pete is correct. A 1 1/16 American open end will do the trick. (I bought mine from a local Ace Hardware for $10) Take a 22mm open end to hold the oil cooler fitting and have at it. I just did this exercise. One night of heating and coercing the fitting and two nights of PB blaster and SLOWLY turning the fitting back and forth while squirting more PB blaster. Both fittings were tight as the devil to start out and are smooth as butter now. No threads damaged. Whew! I proved to myself that the removal of the fittings can be done without destroying the threads.

If you are unfortunate enough to damage threads, do a search on this board on "Kmetz". Or go here: http://diesel.list.archives.mbz.org/2002/Sep/Vol_3_Num_2161/ He has a great write up on replacing the oil cooler fittings with $4 parts from MB. Good luck!

Tom
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  #11  
Old 04-13-2005, 05:15 PM
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I still have the tap from when I replaced the fittings on the cooler in my 116. I bought it for $30 something but it's yours for $15 shipped. It's only been used once.

Thanks
David
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  #12  
Old 04-13-2005, 05:44 PM
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Ah, gear wrenches, how they would have made thou job easier.....I have none, so it took forever to do some of those areas. I also had no problem using the standard huge craftsman 27mm wrench to fasten the fittings, both at the cooler and at the oil filter housing. Gear wrenches I am definatley going to get sometime, once I have money again...

For my job I got:

3 ton jack + stands (all tools are craftsman)
New metric wrench set (2mm-19mm)
tons of extensions in 3/8 drive and some 1/2 drive sockets (big ones)
a 27mm wrench
a lot of dremel cutting wheels
a new oil cooler off ebay (mine passed away upon removal)
a big plastic tub to catch oil and penetrant runoff/spills
a new 3/8 wratchet, old one had died on previous project.....
a universal joint....never really used it though
the new OEM motor mounts....
some new bolts for the motor mounts....some were very corroded
the new OEM cooler lines
Seafoam penetrant
PB Blaster Penetrant
Engine Degreaser/Cleaner
Brake Cleaner
One Billion Shop Rags....
1.5 quarts of extra Shell Rotella T to make up for oil lost in lines/cooler...

total spent: around $900 hours: ~18

Dealer cost to do same job: $1600-1800

Doing it yourself and figuring it out as you go? Priceless
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  #13  
Old 04-13-2005, 06:24 PM
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For the oil cooler lines, i whacked 4" off the handle of a cheap 12"crescent wrench so I could get a good swing between the OF housing and the inner fender liner. Worked great.
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2005, 08:06 PM
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On my oil cooler lines, I made a 1 1/16 flare nut wrench by cutting an inexpensive wrench with a Dremel tool. Worked great and it still works as a box end if I need it.
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  #15  
Old 04-13-2005, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
On my oil cooler lines, I made a 1 1/16 flare nut wrench by cutting an inexpensive wrench with a Dremel tool. Worked great and it still works as a box end if I need it.

This is similar to my wrench and should work fine if the line nuts are not too tight. The problem is, once you cut the circle of a box end wrench you weaken it and it will splay out when some serious torque is applied. I spent some time reinforcing the outer circle of the box end by welding tool steel to it and heating, grinding and quenching and such. Then I carefully ground it to a nice "precision" looking shape so it wouldn't look so ugly. A 12 point "Crow's foot" would be another idea for this type of tool.

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