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  #1  
Old 04-23-2005, 06:38 PM
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124 Evaporator Core Replacement Help

Well, I am knee deep in the replacement of my evaporator core and I need a little help. How in the world do you get all of the pieces of the black shroud apart to access the evap. core? I have the two sides taken apart, but I can't seem to separate the top and bottom halves. Do I need to disassemble anything under the hood in order to access the copper tubes which hook up to the evap. core? I need some help pretty quick since I need to have this baby back together so I can drive it to work on Monday. If some of the wise 124 owners, who have done this repair before, can chime in it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2005, 08:23 PM
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Well, you have to remove the complete heater box from the car to get it apart. Dash, console, igntion swtich, cross brace, the whole kahuna. Big job, about 16 hrs. No shortcuts, either....

The case itself is held together by small metal clips, a breeze once it's out EXCEPT for one little nasty -- you MUST disconnect the floor air flap cross lever at the left side (if I remember correctly) BEFORE you attempt to remove that part of the case, or you will break the little flex joint on the passenger side. You have to buy the whole assembly to replace it..... I wired it, but it's better not to break it.

You must disconnect the expansion valve from the hose set -- a 10mm hex nut up by the brake booster. The expansion valve stays on the evaporator when you pull the heater box , and there is a new one on the new evaporator.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2005, 08:28 PM
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Ok, the next question is how to get the whole heater box out of the car. I have taken out every screw/ nut I can find and something is still holding this baby in. I am about 7 hours into this job and would like to finish it tonight. The actual removal of the dash was a piece of cake. It was far easier than pulling the dash on my 123...which I have done about five times.

Mike
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  #4  
Old 04-23-2005, 09:29 PM
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bump...
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2005, 09:30 PM
LarryBible
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You REALLY need the CD manual for this job. I almost always just start looking around and taking things apart, but for this job, the manual is almost indispensable.

I wonder if the expansion valve has to come off before the evap, thus the heater box, will pull through.

Good luck,
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2005, 09:36 PM
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The evaporator has been disconnected under the hood and will pull through the hole in the fire wall if I can ever get the thing to budge. I can't see anything else connected to the heater box. I do notice that there is some form of sealant between the heater box and the firewall. I have broken this loose, but the box still won't budge. I am ever so close, but can't seem to finish the last mile.

Mike
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2005, 09:05 AM
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Bump... I really need some help with this one guys.

Mike
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2005, 09:36 AM
LarryBible
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I wish I could help, but I have gone all the way TO the heater box, but have never entirely removed it. If I were there to get my hands on it, maybe I could find the offending fastener.

Even someone who has had the box out numerous times may have trouble helping via the internet since there are so many fasteners and things that it's hard to know what you have and haven't removed.

One thing that comes to mind that might not be obvious is the clamps that hold the heater pipes to the firewall. They are pink plastic.

I'm sorry I can't help.

Good luck,
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2005, 12:46 PM
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The heater box is held to the firewall by five bolts. Four are attached directly to the firewall, at roughly the four corners of the heater box. The fifth is a brace underneath the box, near the airbag sensor/radio area.

Once the bolts are removed, the box will be quite effectively attached to the firewall by all the sealing compound used at the factory. A prybar or BFS is necessary to gently lever around the perimeter of the box and break it away from the firewall.

The box can be pulled with the expansion valve still attached, there is plenty of room to pull it through the firewall.

Don't forget to disconnect the heater core hoses.

- JimY
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2005, 01:35 PM
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Thanks guys. I have done all of the above so I guess it is time to use brute force. I wanted to make sure I hadn't missed anything before I went this route. Well, I am heading out to the garage to have a little fun. I'll report back later and let you all know the final result. Thanks for the input so far. I think all I need now is a little moral support.

Mike
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  #11  
Old 04-24-2005, 02:38 PM
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Wished I had seen your note earlier, O could have possibly lent you my experience/know how. I did the job a year ago on my 400E. By site, I could have told you what was needed, but by memory I'm no help either. Did you disconnet the heater hoses. That box contains the AC and heater core.
As I recall, getting the expansion valve assy to come through the wall required a little pursuasion.
Sorry I'm not more help
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2005, 02:45 PM
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I think that is where I am right now...trying to get the expansion valve through the firewall. How do you separate the expansion valve from the evaporator lines? I am thinking I may have to do this to get it through the firewall. I know others say it will go through, but it just isn't coming. I am afraid to use too much brute force for fear of breaking something that may possibly be connected.

Mike
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2005, 03:25 PM
LarryBible
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Have you disconnected the lines from the Expansion Valve? Once they are disconnected then there are two allen screws that come loose and the expansion valve is off.

When putting all this back together, use new, oiled o -rings.

Good luck,
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  #14  
Old 04-24-2005, 03:30 PM
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Whn you are finished,

Give a summary! This is probably the most common and hardest W124 job.
But it's much easier than a W140~!

Michael
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2005, 05:19 PM
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You have to wrestle the box around a bit. If I remember correctly, you must pull it off the firewall, tip up a bit on the bottom and then rotate a bit CCW to "unhook" the expansion valve from the cutout. Fiddlesome but it does come right out.

Very awkward position, crouching there in the front seat footwell....

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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