how tight should i tighten transmission pan bolts?
my tranny has started leaking again. when i originally tightened the bolts, they screwed in fine, and as i continued tightening, it became increasingly harder and harder to turn (that part is normal, i know). the weird thing is, instead of the bolts hitting a certain point and basically not turning at all anymore, it just kept getting harder and harder to turn...it was like it wouldn't tighten all the way for anything. i am positive i didn't cross-thread the bolts...i guess it was because of the thickness of the gasket? anyway, i don't want to overtighten/undertighten when i put it on next time...is a torque wrench in order here?
Edit: is it okay to re-use the gasket in this case? it's only 3 months old... |
If ya used a quality rubber gasket, you should be able to reuse. Make sure it goes on dry too.
Tq... I usually go 96in-lbs (8ft-lbs) on the Valve Bodies I build and on the Pan. I have to replace my neutral switch/backup light piece as my lights don't come on (yup, they're new). :( |
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could i get a few sencond opinions on the topic of whether or not i should wet the gasket with tranny fluid, just to be sure? |
The manual quotes:
pan bolts @ 7 Nm (5.2 Ft-lbs) and the drain plug @ 14 Nm (10 Ft-lbs) and the torque convertor drain plug @ 15 Nm (11 Ft-lbs) I definitely would use some blue threadlocker with such low torque values. ;) |
I never install gaskets wet... never had a leak. Valve covers, ATF pans, oil pans, you name it... I put it on dry.
Good to know on the Tq value, less than I use. |
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thanks for your help :) |
Just to clarify, in case there might be a misunderstanding. The blue threadlocker is for the threads on the bolts. Some call it locktite.
I too have found that, with newer gasket materials, installing them dry has actually resulted in less leaks with the proper torque. |
I used to think I knew better than the factory. After 40 years of working on cars, I'm sure they know better than me, 99 times out of 100. So I go by the factory recommendations. Torque the bolts to factory specs, don't put anything on the gasket unless they say to, and don't use any loctite or other substance unless they did or unless they say to.
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wow...i screwed up bigtime
when i took the pan off, i found the gasket split in several places, and the pan itself was bent to hell and back where the bolt heads meet the pan :eek: new gasket was only 5 bucks; the pan, on the other hand...$83 :eek: :eek: used a bolt driver and tightened as hard as i could with that (per my mechanic's reccommendation...he said it's impossible to overtighten using a bolt driver) so far no leaks...
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over torqued trans pan bolt
79 300sd. Ended up shearing off bolt head. Extracted the broken bolt and put gasket and pan back on to torque spec. Now fluid is leaking from gasket seal at a couple places. I have a new gasket ordered thinking the one i have needs replacing. Does anyone know or think I may have ruined the pan bolt holes/transmission bolt holes? I hope its just the gasket 8-/
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A good buddy of mine asked me why he kept breaking pan bolts.
He read the torque spec at 70FOOT pounds... I told him there is no way a 1/4" bolt could handle that much torque... We read the page... INCH pounds... big difference. |
Hmmm....overtorque + light metal pan = distortion.
I'm betting the pan is going to need rework, at a minimum, if not replacement. Placing the face on a pane of glass, or similar, will be the evidence. To rework, get the pan cold, ie freezer, and work the bolt holes with light hammer taps. A little bit at a time. Tapping too much at one time, will destroy the tempering of the metal and weaken the area. If it works out, you got lucky this time. |
I got lucky, the pan was still good and new gasket at correct torque is not leaking. measure twice for God sake
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My 722.605 can't remove since 2009,rounded star
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