my tranny has started leaking again. when i originally tightened the bolts, they screwed in fine, and as i continued tightening, it became increasingly harder and harder to turn (that part is normal, i know). the weird thing is, instead of the bolts hitting a certain point and basically not turning at all anymore, it just kept getting harder and harder to turn...it was like it wouldn't tighten all the way for anything. i am positive i didn't cross-thread the bolts...i guess it was because of the thickness of the gasket? anyway, i don't want to overtighten/undertighten when i put it on next time...is a torque wrench in order here?

Edit:
is it okay to re-use the gasket in this case? it's only 3 months old...

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1985 300D Turbo "Eunis"

If ya used a quality rubber gasket, you should be able to reuse. Make sure it goes on dry too.

Tq... I usually go 96in-lbs (8ft-lbs) on the Valve Bodies I build and on the Pan.

I have to replace my neutral switch/backup light piece as my lights don't come on (yup, they're new).

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

when i put the gasket on, i was told to rub it down with tranny fluid...of course my friend did that part for me while i was installing the filter, and i didn't find out until later that he mistook rotella T motor oil for transmission fluid

could i get a few sencond opinions on the topic of whether or not i should wet the gasket with tranny fluid, just to be sure?

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1985 300D Turbo "Eunis"

The manual quotes:
pan bolts @ 7 Nm (5.2 Ft-lbs)
and the drain plug @ 14 Nm (10 Ft-lbs)
and the torque convertor drain plug @ 15 Nm (11 Ft-lbs)

I definitely would use some blue threadlocker with such low torque values.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I never install gaskets wet... never had a leak. Valve covers, ATF pans, oil pans, you name it... I put it on dry.



Good to know on the Tq value, less than I use.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

no leaks, eh? good enough for me i'll take care of that tomorrow. btw...i plan on re-using what's left of the fluid...only 3 months old and it's mobile 1...as you know that stuff ain't cheap! is this okay?

thanks for your help

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1985 300D Turbo "Eunis"

Just to clarify, in case there might be a misunderstanding. The blue threadlocker is for the threads on the bolts. Some call it locktite.

I too have found that, with newer gasket materials, installing them dry has actually resulted in less leaks with the proper torque.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I used to think I knew better than the factory. After 40 years of working on cars, I'm sure they know better than me, 99 times out of 100. So I go by the factory recommendations. Torque the bolts to factory specs, don't put anything on the gasket unless they say to, and don't use any loctite or other substance unless they did or unless they say to.

when i took the pan off, i found the gasket split in several places, and the pan itself was bent to hell and back where the bolt heads meet the pan new gasket was only 5 bucks; the pan, on the other hand...$83 used a bolt driver and tightened as hard as i could with that (per my mechanic's reccommendation...he said it's impossible to overtighten using a bolt driver) so far no leaks...

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1985 300D Turbo "Eunis"

79 300sd. Ended up shearing off bolt head. Extracted the broken bolt and put gasket and pan back on to torque spec. Now fluid is leaking from gasket seal at a couple places. I have a new gasket ordered thinking the one i have needs replacing. Does anyone know or think I may have ruined the pan bolt holes/transmission bolt holes? I hope its just the gasket 8-/

A good buddy of mine asked me why he kept breaking pan bolts.

He read the torque spec at 70FOOT pounds...

I told him there is no way a 1/4" bolt could handle that much torque...
We read the page...

INCH pounds... big difference.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Hmmm....overtorque + light metal pan = distortion.
I'm betting the pan is going to need rework, at a minimum, if not replacement. Placing the face on a pane of glass, or similar, will be the evidence.
To rework, get the pan cold, ie freezer, and work the bolt holes with light hammer taps. A little bit at a time. Tapping too much at one time, will destroy the tempering of the metal and weaken the area. If it works out, you got lucky this time.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I got lucky, the pan was still good and new gasket at correct torque is not leaking. measure twice for God sake

My 722.605 can't remove since 2009,rounded star

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

The star piece inside is rounded? - use some emery grinding paste and hammer a bit in and remove that screw, use a generic allen metric screw to replace.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)