just use some Wrigley's and duct tape
proper repairs are for chumps

Sorry couldn't resist- seriously since you are apparently averse to replacing your oil cooler hoses with the proper parts, why would you bother with following the FSM in this matter? Why not just repair it however which way you want? This issue is definitely not as important as the oil cooler hose issue that you seem to be so cavalier in blowing off. Priorities are definitely askew here. I'm confused.

To resecure that oil separator drain tube, you will just about have to remove the manifolds and turbocharger. Yes, I have actually performed this repair myself. The bracket that holds the tube firmly to the back of the lower manifold support strap is most likely worn away. If you let it go, the tube will bang around and wear severely at random points along its length. In time this will develop into an oil leak, but it is not something that will kill your car. Do a search for a thread started by myself entitled 'week o' fun'. The o-ring at the top and bottom of the tube is the same size as the oil dipstick o-ring, and that's what you should look for.

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

I have the same problem with the tube. It moves in all directions. I plan on replacing my check valve and the turbo drain tube grommet as well. There is oil everywhere!! Around the oil pan, under the air filter, down the header pipe to the exhaust bracket. There's also oil on the entire engine and under the radiator of all places!! The PO cut the metal part of the upper oil cooler line and attached a rubber hose with clamps and used some sort of RTV where the rubber hose meets the metal tube . The day I drove it home, it was an oil geyser!!! It looks like it happened a few times before. I fixed it already, but a lot of clean up. Most of the oil is dry and all my parts are black!!

Anyway, sorry to off on a tangent like that, just so I understand, the oil separator drain tube is secured via a bracket attached to the engine block?? And it is not secured at the check valve itself?? So basically, once you unsecure it from the bracket, it should come off very easily?? Did I get that right??

__________________
1984 300D Turbo -- Just bought it June 2007 for only $650. My first Mercedes-Benz and my first Diesel.
1964 VW Karmann Ghia -- in parts Long overdue for a restore.
2006 Audi A3 -- Great car, but I hate the car payments!!

To those wanting to do this repair of the check valve, I have not found the check valve available anyone have a supply?
617-018-00-29 Check valve

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Buddy Ligon
1985 300SD
1969 280SE Cabriolet

After reading this thread I now pour a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil down the oil seperator at oil change time. My theory is it will keep the check valve clean of gunk and I'll never have to replace it.

Here are some more pics to add to Dave's excellent write up (who inspired me!)

Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing

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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

I agree with buddyligon, I couldn't get the check valve from fastlane nor from my local dealer.

Can anyone explain what the purpose is of this system? Why connect the valve cover to the air cleaner in the first place? What harm would be caused by capping off the top of the valve cover, removing the oil drain tube connecting the air filter to the oil pan and plugging the holes?

Thanks!
Joe.
_________________________________
'82 300 D Turbo 137,000 mi
New owner since April '08
Just recieved my Golden Fuel Systems 2 tank system in the mail, haven't had a chance to install. Trying to track down all the oil leaks first!

Periodically Vomitting Oil

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

If you plug the holes, too much pressure will build up in the crankcase, if you have even the faintest blowby, and then at best your engine will stall, or at worst blow out the seals.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Oh, okay, that's a good reason not to plug the holes!

So, any recommendations for finding this check valve?

Any recommendations for alternative fixes?

Thanks!
Joe.

I asked the classic center at the mbca site, but they said that the part has been discontinued. Luckily, there are a number of MB dealers that use that board and one of them did a check for me and found one at another dealer. Might be worth a try.

I am checking on this.

It appears to be the same valve used in the vacuum pump.

:EDIT: It is identical = the vacuum pump valve works.
picture attached.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I am about to replace my oil pan, the gasket, both motor mounts and shocks, and the oil cooler lines. I had read this thread and was thinking I might want to replace the check valve too while I have everything apart. I looked at my car to kind of see what I would be looking at and it turns out my car lacks this part all together. There is only one tube going into the top of the upper oil pan and when I felt back there it seemed like it was just a blank spot where this tube and check valve would be. The car is a euro turbo 617 and it looks like the valve cover vent runs directly to the air intake just in front of the turbo. Looks like I will not have to worry about whether the part is still available or not.

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1985 Euro 300TD Turbo

Even if the check valve is the same, what about the securing ring?

Part numbers?

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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html

I spray carb cleaner half a can.Then change oil,about every 6 months.

I was considering something along those lines but not knowing the composition of the parts, I was concerned about damage. Wouldn't brake cleaner be less aggressive on rubber components? In another post, someone mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil.

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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386