300TD SLS pump removal and suspension conversion
 

Well, sad to say it but...

I've decided to use my 300TD as a donor for my 240D insted of selling her as a whole. In the last month the SLS has been very sluggish and will not raise the rear even though it returns fluid back to the tank.

Insted of rebuilding the $complete$ list of everything I need, (Flush the system, rebuild leveling valve, fix BIG high pressure line leak, and new accumulators) I decided to convert to a standard suspension.

For all of this, I'm going to remove almost everything SLS related. (Shameless Plug: I'll be selling a SLS pump and tank separate for those who need one. :eek: )

Air shocks will be used in the place of the struts and I'm still debating if I should replace the springs with sedan springs. Does anybody know if they are the same? :confused:

Pictures to come this saturday!

Do a search, I did a thread on this a year ago. I bought coil-over shocks from Strut-masters.... I replaced the springs with sedan springs because the sedan spring are 10mm taller (woooo), but they are thinner gauge...(benefit most likely a wash) I did some rigging to make the shock ends fit under the cargo area trim panel and I have driven the wagon about 1,110 miles so far.
My findings: a little bouncy and the rear will bottom out when you hit big pot holes or take RR crossings at speed. I managed to sell the used suspension parts for about the same price of the coil-overs, about $300.


Now I have a much better TD with a properly working rear suspension, the ride in the newer wagon is much better....

I'll be putting Rudolph up for sale soon as Brutus is my new restoration project.... I might be interested in some of your suspension parts...

Lance,
Look at this thread, it has the various spring lengths listed: SLS Replacement thread

here it is..
 

I just did this not too long ago. Used sedan springs and HD Bilsteins. You folks who've also removed SLS, what did you do about the pump? I mean, how did you cover the hole for the shaft on the head?

Thanks,
Jay.

I just pulled the pump last night. There is nothing amazing about it, just a simple 4 piston radial self-priming pump. The drive shaft is held in the head with a snap-ring so leaving off the pump won't kill anything. A simple aluminium plate was made and installed over the port.

After running around town today I had no problems other than a very saggy rear-end. :rolleyes:

Today: Removing the tank and most lines.

The finished product. Just a little oil left to clean up from when I first pulled the pump off.

You're my hero!
 

Thanks for the pix. Looks so much better without the extra high-pressure hoses cluttering everything up! Can't wait to get that stuff off my motor. Next: the air conditioning!

Jay.

Not bad. MB actually has a plate to cover the hole, although I'm having a hell of a hard time trying to get one. My parts guys can't find it anywhere.

Anyone have the part number for it? It also came on crate 280 M110 engines...

The tank and SLS valve are out. The tank and brackets are in good shape. It looks like a crack on the tank but somehow it does not leak.

The valve looks to be the reason my system would not respond anymore. Just a little too much wear on the plate to hold fluid from returning.

Next: Struts and accumulators.

The struts are out and I'm working with a pair of air shocks to replace them. Both (Along with the rest of the underside) are a little dirty due to line leaks around the drivers side accumulator and engine oil blowing back. The struts don't leak and were (supposidly) replaced a few months before I bought the TD two years ago. (Another shameless plug: The pump, tank, and struts are sill for sale. Just make an offer.)

Once the drivers side strut came out after 30 minutes and I knew what it took, the passenger side was out in 5 minutes. :rolleyes:

Next: Air ride

...and a cutting torch (I wish right now :mad: )

*edit* Slow going, the air shocks were too big to fit through the stock strut openings so I need to pull the springs. :( Looks like it won't be anywhere as easy as I had thought. But it seems like the TD has a chip on it's shoulder for me this weekend. The Prechambers were a PITA to get out, my battery was almost dead, the copression gauge didn't have an injector hole adaptor, and my right fog light is blown out. :mad: :mad:

Well, the project it 98% complete. I just need to weld an additional beam to the plate to prevent bending and find the ideal PSI for the shocks.

I just used off the shelf air ahocks from Napa and welded a bracket to the trailing arms. At the top I just drilled a hole into the body, used a BIG fender washer to help the top mount, and cut the extra bolt length off. I'd like to have found some air shocks that would fit into the stock strut hole but none were in stock in Colorado.

After riding on them all this week I can say they are a FAR improvement over the stock struts (With blown accumulators) and safer than springs alone.

It finally rides like a 300D! :dancefool

*edit* yes, I know my driver's side axle shaft boot is torn. :eek:

Suggest
 

adding support struts to your bracket.

I agree...it needs some strengthening (triangulation) or its not going to last long.

I know, it's the first thing I plan to do this weekend before my starter switch.