Well, sad to say it but...

I've decided to use my 300TD as a donor for my 240D insted of selling her as a whole. In the last month the SLS has been very sluggish and will not raise the rear even though it returns fluid back to the tank.

Insted of rebuilding the $complete$ list of everything I need, (Flush the system, rebuild leveling valve, fix BIG high pressure line leak, and new accumulators) I decided to convert to a standard suspension.

For all of this, I'm going to remove almost everything SLS related. (Shameless Plug: I'll be selling a SLS pump and tank separate for those who need one. )

Air shocks will be used in the place of the struts and I'm still debating if I should replace the springs with sedan springs. Does anybody know if they are the same?

Pictures to come this saturday!

Do a search, I did a thread on this a year ago. I bought coil-over shocks from Strut-masters.... I replaced the springs with sedan springs because the sedan spring are 10mm taller (woooo), but they are thinner gauge...(benefit most likely a wash) I did some rigging to make the shock ends fit under the cargo area trim panel and I have driven the wagon about 1,110 miles so far.
My findings: a little bouncy and the rear will bottom out when you hit big pot holes or take RR crossings at speed. I managed to sell the used suspension parts for about the same price of the coil-overs, about $300.


Now I have a much better TD with a properly working rear suspension, the ride in the newer wagon is much better....

I'll be putting Rudolph up for sale soon as Brutus is my new restoration project.... I might be interested in some of your suspension parts...

__________________
Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

Lance,
Look at this thread, it has the various spring lengths listed: SLS Replacement thread

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

86ing the hydraulic rear suspension

__________________
Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

I just did this not too long ago. Used sedan springs and HD Bilsteins. You folks who've also removed SLS, what did you do about the pump? I mean, how did you cover the hole for the shaft on the head?

Thanks,
Jay.

I just pulled the pump last night. There is nothing amazing about it, just a simple 4 piston radial self-priming pump. The drive shaft is held in the head with a snap-ring so leaving off the pump won't kill anything. A simple aluminium plate was made and installed over the port.

After running around town today I had no problems other than a very saggy rear-end.

Today: Removing the tank and most lines.

Attached Thumbnails

         

The finished product. Just a little oil left to clean up from when I first pulled the pump off.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Thanks for the pix. Looks so much better without the extra high-pressure hoses cluttering everything up! Can't wait to get that stuff off my motor. Next: the air conditioning!

Jay.

Not bad. MB actually has a plate to cover the hole, although I'm having a hell of a hard time trying to get one. My parts guys can't find it anywhere.

Anyone have the part number for it? It also came on crate 280 M110 engines...

__________________


1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

The tank and SLS valve are out. The tank and brackets are in good shape. It looks like a crack on the tank but somehow it does not leak.

The valve looks to be the reason my system would not respond anymore. Just a little too much wear on the plate to hold fluid from returning.

Next: Struts and accumulators.

Attached Thumbnails

         

The struts are out and I'm working with a pair of air shocks to replace them. Both (Along with the rest of the underside) are a little dirty due to line leaks around the drivers side accumulator and engine oil blowing back. The struts don't leak and were (supposidly) replaced a few months before I bought the TD two years ago. (Another shameless plug: The pump, tank, and struts are sill for sale. Just make an offer.)

Once the drivers side strut came out after 30 minutes and I knew what it took, the passenger side was out in 5 minutes.

Next: Air ride

...and a cutting torch (I wish right now )

*edit* Slow going, the air shocks were too big to fit through the stock strut openings so I need to pull the springs. Looks like it won't be anywhere as easy as I had thought. But it seems like the TD has a chip on it's shoulder for me this weekend. The Prechambers were a PITA to get out, my battery was almost dead, the copression gauge didn't have an injector hole adaptor, and my right fog light is blown out.

Attached Thumbnails

     

Well, the project it 98% complete. I just need to weld an additional beam to the plate to prevent bending and find the ideal PSI for the shocks.

I just used off the shelf air ahocks from Napa and welded a bracket to the trailing arms. At the top I just drilled a hole into the body, used a BIG fender washer to help the top mount, and cut the extra bolt length off. I'd like to have found some air shocks that would fit into the stock strut hole but none were in stock in Colorado.

After riding on them all this week I can say they are a FAR improvement over the stock struts (With blown accumulators) and safer than springs alone.

It finally rides like a 300D!

*edit* yes, I know my driver's side axle shaft boot is torn.

Attached Thumbnails

       

adding support struts to your bracket.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I agree...it needs some strengthening (triangulation) or its not going to last long.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I know, it's the first thing I plan to do this weekend before my starter switch.