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  #1  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:01 PM
Veggie Power
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
Much delayed shut-down. vacuum pump or shutoof valve?

Ok, so I know there have been other threads on this. I apologize to the people who have to read newbies like myself asking the same old things...
So recently the 300SD has been taking longer to shut-down. This morning the wife calls paniced from work cause it won't shut down at all. When I get there it's shutdown, though. SO I imagine it only ran for a minute or so this morning...
I just want to clarify what I think i learned doing a search for this...
Oh. I should mention that we just had a mechanic install a refurbished ignition, as the original was torn out by the previous owner who had lost the key while in the middle of the woods.
So I need to check my vacuum pump first, then the shutoff valve? Or is there something else?

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  #2  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:06 PM
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I would first suggest you connect your Miti-vac to the shut-off valve and see if the valve is bad/leaking. That is the usual culprit -
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  #3  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:10 PM
cmichalik
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Could be either or niether. I had a "no shut down" problem a while back. In my case it wa a bunch of tiney little leaks. I replaced all the rubber hose I could reach and also repaced all the 3 way & 4 way vacuum connectors.
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:20 PM
Old Deis
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There is a vacuum line the is runs through the ignition switch, bets that the line is worn and a little loose and when the switch was replaced the line began leaking either going in, which would cause a vac leak at all times, or more likely going out of the switch, which would leak only when you try to shut the beastie down.
The shut off is pulled closed with vacuum. What TX 6513 is pointing is that you will need to source the vacuum loss, or rule that out. The old MB diesels are imfamous for vac leaks at all the fittings. Sort of a disease they get with old age. Low vacuum and she will not shut down.
Or it could be the shutoff valve. Easy to pull a vacuum on that with a Mity Vac. Just pull the line frim the shutoff and hook up the Mity Vac and pump up a vacuum and see if it shuts down.
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:26 PM
Veggie Power
 
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And pulling the vacuum line from the shut-off wont stop the engine...and i do this with the ignition still on to test i assume?
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:30 PM
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And pulling the vacuum line from the shut-off wont stop the engine..(it won't)

.and i do this with the ignition still on to test i assume
(yes)

Kaluna - do you have a miti-vac? This is a valuable tool to have with your car.
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:35 PM
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I had this exact same problem. At first, my shutoff was extended by a few seconds, then it extended to 10 or more seconds. I pulled the vacuum line to the shutoff valve after I was able to hear oil being sucked into the lines.

I had a bad diaphram in the shutoff valve and the system was sucking oil from the insides of the injection pump. I removed the line before any more oil could be sucked into all my vacuum lines.

The replacement part cost little more than $40.
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  #8  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:36 PM
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hey,
This link should help you out:
http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/Vacuum/

I think I remember someone mentioning you can rent/borrow a mity-vac from autozone. I don't know for sure I went and bought mine.
How is yor shifting is it hard? how are the brakes?

Check your vacuum pump. Make sure it pulls down and stays down. There is a check valve on top of the pump. Work your way out from there. Follow the diagrams. Brake booster, line to transmission modulator, shut off valve, 3/2 way valves on top of valve cover, egr valve, etc..

It's not hard at al with the mity-vac.

Danny
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  #9  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:40 PM
Veggie Power
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
no, but the mitivac is a purchase i guess i need to make today. I have air in the lines og my WVO conversion (on the other car) and the plunger on the lift pump hand primer isnt long enough to get enough pressure to work the air out. I was trying to figure out another way to save the $20, but i guess i gotta stop being cheap...thanks
what causes the oil to get in the lines? could someone break that down for me. thanks kindly
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2005, 01:59 PM
Old Deis
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Oil in the vacuum lines could point to a failing vac pump. The vac pump is mounted on the front of the engine. It is surrounded by running oil, and when it starts to break apart it will suck oil into it and then in turn will start to work that oil into the lines.
That could be happening now, or it may be an occurance from some time ago.
You will only be guessing without vacuum guages to get a line on the amount of vacuum coming from the pump itselft, and then if and where it is leaking away to.
Check for any racket coming from the very front of the engine. Sometimes that vac pump will start to beak apart. It can destroy an engine if it is not taken care of asap. Parts from the pump will go into the oil lines and the oil pan. Don't mean to cause an unessecary alarm, but the risk is significant.
And just pulling the line into the shut off will do nothing other than ensure you will never get it to shut down. However you may be able to get an idea of the relative vacuum there. Turn it off with the line off and then cover it with a finger. Should have a strong vacuum, strong enough to notice anyway.
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2005, 02:16 PM
Veggie Power
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
I've got a cheap sunpro vacuum/pressure gauge. If I use it to test the vacuum pump, what psi am I looking for?
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  #12  
Old 05-06-2005, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
If I use it to test the vacuum pump, what psi am I looking for?

The vacuum pump should pull over 20" of Hg vacuum (over -10 psi).
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2005, 03:17 PM
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Hey,
What Old Deis said is true. Not wanting to make you worry but if the pump is breaking down it could send shrapnel into your timing chain.
My pump went bad and I didn't drive it for a week until I got the repair parts. As it turned out the valves in the pump were clogged and stuck open. Would never have caused damage but better safe than sorry.
you can check if you have a stethascope or a long screwdriver, just be careful checking while the engine is running.
Check this link here:
http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/Vacuum%20Pump/Rebuild_vac_pump.htm
I think you have a different type. You have the diaghram type rather than the piston type. The removal and repair should be almost the same though.
take it apart, fix it, put it back!

Of course we haven't even determined if it's bad yet! Get the mity-vac and check it out.

Danny

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