I removed the intake manifold and crossover pipe and there was a lot of spooge. Spooge is a combination of thick black oil mixed, almost like a tar, and what appears to be a abrasive material. I am going to wash it out with solvent and filter it. I guess the turbo seals are leaking. Maybe a little aluminun to boot. This engine used 5 qts of oil between NC and New Mexico about 1700 miles.

As far as the glo plugs went there were three bad ones. Two danced around 12 to .7 ohms. I replaced four of them as I had removed the ntake manifold.

I fire the engine up and see if it will take less than 2-5 minutes cranking.

I have rebuilt turbos on Detriots, Cummings and other engines. This is a 1987 300TD. Are the parts available seperately or can you only by a reconed turbo?

Have a look at this related thread.
What's the best solvent for Diesel Goo??

Best Regards,
Jim

Most likely, this is your EGR doing its part to gum up the works. Disable the unit however you see fit, but at the very least put a BB into the vacuum line connecting to the EGR valve itself. Sometimes the turbo seals will leak, but definitely determine whether a disabled EGR will eliminate your gummy buildup problem first, before rebuilding the turbo. You can indeed purchase a rebuild kit for these turbos separately.

Whatever you do, don't call it spooge anymore, its "non-technical" definition might surprise you...

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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD
1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick

Yeah I saw that title too and was sorta wondering the implications thereof

Pull the manifold and clean it as well. Intake runners 1-3 get pretty gummed up.

If you have no emissions remove the egr with a set of plates. If you have them just slip a plate in between the valve and intake.

EGR's are horrible a healthy diesel= no egr.

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2020 GMC Sierra Denali
2007 Tiara 3200

I will refrain from that term in the future.

roflmao!

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Tsiero said "This engine used 5 qts of oil between NC and New Mexico about 1700 miles" yikes! something's wrong! I use one qt per 1200 miles in my '87 300D turbo and I consider that a lot (246K miles on the original rings and a #14 head BTW ) My '85 300TD uses one qt per 1500 to 2000 mi.

Hopefully just the turbo bearings are leaking, if there isn't a lot of oil loss visible anywhere I would look there. And a new cartridge for that turbo might be inorder. I have also seen 603 engines lose power because the wastegate flapper sticks open due to crud built up and caked up in the space where it should close. A turbo shop is another way to get one reconditioned, I have no interest in repairing a tuebo (basically a chicken I suppose, but worry about the need for balancing) but my friend tackled one and rebuilt it successfully.
Watch out for loss of oil so as to avoid running the sump dry and let us know what you find was the cause

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Unfortunately, as it seems, times have changed
*shrug*

Still a humourous word.

BTW that oil loss is excessive. What sort of blow by were/are you looking at?

Check for blowby -- my 300D used 2 quarts (the oil leve light started flickering once in a while) at 8000 miles on my last oil change (Mobil 1, of course!) and I have a leak, I get drips once in a while from the front of the engine somewhere.

If you have substantial blowby, you probably need an engine rebuild due to worn cylinders. Scary, you can buy a new car cheaper.

However, if you have excessive blue smoke (meaning ANY blue smoke on this engine), check the turbo first. Bad turbo seals will gum up the engine terribly, and this will likely clear somewhat when you replace the turbo.

Easy to check -- remove the intake pipe and spin the turbo by hand (engine off, please, unless you want to lose some fingers). It must rotate smoothly all the way round, not "tight" spots or roughness. It may have some side to side play, barely perceptible, but if there is any axial play at all, or more than a tiny amount side to side, it's in need of a cartridge, the seals and bearings are gone.

Last one I did was $450 for a cartridge at my local diesel injection shop. A cart is easy to do at home -- take the intake and exhaust shrouds off the old one and put them on the new one, making sure you have the correct orientation, and you're done. Cart contains the rest of the turbo. Oil it before installation, please!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!