Just drove home with a 1980 300sd with about 150k miles. It's kind of banged up but I just wanted the engine. Wow, after driving my 240d for so long this thing is a rocket, I can't wait to get the engine into my w123. If anyone wants any parts off this, I'm going to be parting it out soon, so you can just PM me.

I'm gonna put the engine into my 240. From what I'm told I'll need to shorted the tranny linkage 4" (4-speed) and shorten the driveshaft 4" also with moving the tranny back and all. The glow plug relays are different and need to be swapped but other than that it's pretty straight forward correct? Radiator, fly wheel, some other stuff. I've searched but I can't find it if there is a write up on the swap from the 240 4-speed to a 300turbo keeping the 4 speed. I must suck at searching. Thanks.
-Nate

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'82 240D, 4-speed, 617 turbo engine

attached are some pics, hope that works. I dunno about the km/h and the square headlights.
-Nate

Attached Thumbnails

   

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'82 240D, 4-speed, 617 turbo engine

those square headlights might be worth some cash being the European ones. They out perform the sealed beams by a safe margin too.

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2002 VW Golf TDI-169,000 miles B20

I picked this one up from grimgaunt, you know hari, if anyone cares, he's still around. We're gonna have super swap weekend coming up here pretty soon. ROCK AWN!!!
-Nate

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'82 240D, 4-speed, 617 turbo engine

Will you have flywheel issues? is it possible to re-use the SD one?

cheers,
Robert

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Cheers,
Robert

grimgaunt has walked me through this a few times. This is the gist of it

Take out 240 engine separate from tranny (easier that way)
Remove flywheel
Drop 240 4-speed out the bottom, put in new clutch while out

meanwhile use the running driving 300sd for parts car and daily driver duties

Shorten driveshaft 4" on the 240, shorted shift linkage 4" on the 240
Once this is done, the 240 will be ready to take the 300sd

Now the race is on to get it done over a weekend...so...park the 300 next to my 240, get the engine out, unbolt flywheel, bolt the one for the stick onto the 617, bolt 4-speed to 617, install...figure out all the little stuff...and drive...hopefully. If it goes even anywhere NEAR that smooth I will be happy.
-Nate

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'82 240D, 4-speed, 617 turbo engine

CannonBall

It is easier to pull the 616 eng and manual tranny together, leave the tranny cross member on the tranny. You have to tip it about 40 degrees but thats much easier than leaving the tranny in.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

only what I've read, but I don't think that 240 flywheel is heavy enuff for the 3L/manual tranny application.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

cheers,
RObert

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Cheers,
Robert

Hi Cannonball,
I'm going through the exact same swap you are right now. I've got an 84 300sd and an 83 240d w/ ventilated case and manual tranny. The SD engine is going into the 240D. One thing others have mentioned is that it might be a good idea to swap out the differential for better gearing. We pulled the whole engine/tranny combo in order to lay the driveline out for accurate measuring. Another thing is the exhaust is laid out different (and is larger) for the turbo. Lots of the other considerations specific for this swap are on the last couple of pages of that thread. Let me know if that helps.

I'll correct you. The flywheels for 2.4L and 3.0L are the same weight. They may, in fact, be the same part number, but the balance could be different. To do this job perfectly, you may want to match-mark the SD engine's flexplate (flywheel) and have it characterized for balance. Then transfer the same balance characteristics to the manual flywheel.

BTW, congrats on the upcoming swap - sounds like a good one.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

i dont think that the flywheels are any different. both can be bolted on in any location. i believe that they are balanced off the crank and are just round. you'll need a 300dt exhaust system. i have one off a 300td and i think it will work but am not sure. the suggestion above to change the rear end is a very good one and the speedo shold be changed as well. you have noted already to change the radiator. i have most of the parts to do this and i was planning to use a flywheel and clutch from a 280sl, thinking that they are heavier... but i am not really sure if they are. i can weigh the flywheel for you if you like. i am not offering the flywheel and clutch, only the exhaust.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Ok lots of stuff since I last posted so I'll try and cover what I think I know and what I'll probably need help with:

Flywheel: I don't think I'm going to have it rebalanced (if it’s already balanced at all.) Not sure, but the guy I got the SD from has done this swap before, and is currently in the process of doing it and didn’t mention anything besides changing the flywheel.

Exhaust: Any chance the SD exhaust will work for at least getting the fumes out of the engine compartment? I realize they can’t be the same, but if I can get the fumes down from the turbo and out of the way a little that would be fine until I can have something made or can pick up the full system for cheap. (I’m saying this as someone who had an exhaust for a v-8 that collected and then dumped for a month before my new exhaust was available, basically I can tolerate noise and I can drive with the windows down all the time.) I was joking with my friends about stacks, or a single pipe along the rocker. I’ve heard the turbo exhaust is restrictive. I was a little reluctant to get the SD for this reason and the rear end issue, because they aren’t direct. Thanks for the exhaust offer, but I THINK I can find one out here without breaking the bank and not have to ask anyone to ship an exhaust system.

Rear end: The rear end on the SD 116 will not swap into the 123, it’s not the same. (This is what I was told, and I think there’s a thread or two about it on here) I’m going to try and find 2.88 gears (or if that’s not exact, the closest) from a w123, the 3.07’s aren’t out of the question, but I’d rather be able to sit in the power band at like 80-85. I’m not going to do the gears right away though, I want to enjoy being able to be faster than 1 or 2 cars on the road. I think the 3.47’s 4-speed and a healthy turbo engine should be pretty peppy. I would be really pumped about 0-60 in like 10-12 seconds. This would mean I might be able to enter the freeway AT or near FREEWAY SPEEDS!!!!!!!!!

I’m still confused on the engine/tranny being easier to pull together then separate? Is it just less work in the long run? Also, are there any tricky connections that you guys have noticed get overlooked in a pull with either the tranny or the engine. Thanks a lot, I’m so excited, I’m just pissed I have to work this weekend so I can’t really get it done.

-Nate

Quick question: My A/C has been converted to r-134a, I tried opening the schrader valve to dump the pressure but that doesn't seem to work, how do I disco this stuff, and I'm also thinking about dumping the compressor all together after the swap, has anyone done this? I literally NEVER use it (unless it kicks on when I use defrost to dry the air) Thanks.

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'82 240D, 4-speed, 617 turbo engine

Ok, yes I am alive, just busy as hell travelling

a) flywheels are the same, however in order to do the balance as Old300D suggested you have to have a mark on the flexplate (yes folks the auto takes a flex plate, the manuals are flywheels) , in 6 cases I have yet to find a mark on the ones I took off. so in a perfect world you would do this (or find a 300D flywheel that was OEM and use it ) but I have caars with 100 kmi on it with this swap and nothings come apart (yet !!)

b) Rear end will NOT swap between a 116 and 123 (too much shimming and stuff involved)

c) YES it is easier to remove engine and tranny together in case of a 5-cyl 617 primarily because the top bellhousing bolts are hard to reach etc:-

however he is talking about a 4-cyl 616, it is MUCH easier to do this separately.

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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7

" there any tricky connections that you guys have noticed get overlooked in a pull with either the tranny or the engine."

One thing that caused me a little grief. Couldn't get the oil pressure gauge line disconnected from the oil filter housing on the 240D. The fitting was "froze' to the plastic line, no big deal so I chopped it, cost me over $50 for a new line. next time I took the time to unscrew it from the gauge and turn the line, dah

I have heard it said that the 240 flywheel is 7# lighter than the 300 f/w, not that thats a problem, as lots of folks have used the 240 f/w with no ill effects. I would line up the witness marks on the f/w with those on the crank tho.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Cannonball, there was a '85 300TD at Pull-n-Save the weekend before last; it had just arrived. I pulled the wheels ($%@$# overtorqued lugs!!!!) and the interior wood, as well as the instrument cluster (I wanted a speedo to match my 2.88). It had 330k miles, but the rear end may be just fine -- you might have to hurry, the turnover at Pull-n-Save is pretty high. I'm looking forward to displaying 330K mikes with only 270K actual.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg