OK, in the never ending quest to find smoking cause, I was loosening injector lines while car was idling to see if it made a difference. Well, when #5 broke loose, my hand smashed into the vac line, snapping off the brake booster check valve nipple. Any wonder I hate this wagon?
Anyway, I had a spare from a '79 wagon (thank you Leathermang)
Man, the vacuum situation has me totally stumped. And it seems so simple, but it ain't working. He is the cliff notes version:
Pump at one end, brake booster at the other. Prior to brake booster is check valve. It is working. Old vac line had 2 nipples ('T's) in between pump and check valve. First 'T' went to tranny 3/2 valve on valve cover. Second 'T' (closest to check valve) went to several 'Y's, including line to door locks, line to ignition, and a couple other black lines that I'm not sure of at the moment. Here is the deal. My new vac line only has 1 'T' coming off of it. So I 'T'd off of that, with one going to stuff from nipple 1 (3/2 valve), and another going to stuff from 2nd 'T'. In effect, it is plumbed alittle different, but should net out the same.
I have 22.5 psi of vac (psi is probably not correct, but you get the idea) which is what I should have. If I run the 'T' straight to the line to the ignition, the car shuts off with the key, and the brakes work fine. When I 'T' if off to everything else, it doesn't shut off. It only sends about 2 psi to the IP shutoff, which obviously isn't enough. The ignition sw itself holds vacuum, the door locks hold vacuum(even though they have never worked). And most importantly, NOTHING has changed except for the plumbing differences from the main vac line. What difference is two 'T's compared to one 'T' with 2 branches from it?

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

My guess is you have a big leak in the line going to the 3/2 valve, which is robbing you of vacuum in the line going to the ignition switch. You might try plugging that line and see if it shuts off with it plugged.

I guess you were in the process of cracking each line to the injectors to see if the smoke stopped when any of the cylinders were starved for fuel? Did you find a faulty cylinder, or did it smoke on throughout the process?

Good luck!

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

I was so disgusted that I quit. I started with #5, I ended with #5.
I will check the line to the 3/2 valve, I am just thrown off by the fact that nothing changed except the main vac line from pump to brake booster.

**edit**
While typing this message the first time, my laptop battery melted. This car takes everything within it's wake and turns it to crapola.... Melted the battery plastic. At least I can trouble shoot that!

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

"I was so disgusted that I quit." --JimmyL

You can't do that ! You don't have time to quit and recover each time something bad happens..... otherwise progress will just get slower and slower... and already you have burned up a laptop with the bandwidth used for asking questions.... you have to keep your nose to the grindstone...particularly this week... or your car won't even be able to drive south next weekend....

I believe your problem with vacuum is any time you put a T in a line, you devide the vacuum to 2 circuits instead of one. The original ports were supplied with vacuum from a big line. so there was plenty of vacuum to each one. I don't know what for you to do other than get the correct part.

__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

JimmyL,

The leak theory sounds good to me. Maybe that's why the door locks never worked. The leak one in system causes a lower vacuum (inches of mercury, not PSI) in the other vacuum system when "teed" to gether.

P E H

On mine, there was a hard to find crack in the vac line going across the front of the block the the EGR, hidden inside that black sleeve...

__________________
So far...'76 240 D (sold)
'84 300SD (sold)
'85 300D (sold)
'83 300SD (p.o.s. waiting on tranny swap)
'82 300SD (could be the keeper)

Well, I guess I've got some troubleshooting to do. Someone one time posted the best step by step vacuum troubleshooting method, and I can't remember who it was, and can't find it. It went into connections under the carpet and all.
My vac. line to the door lock system (green/yellow) holds a vacuum. It is the black lines I'm gonna have to pay attention to. If I tee off to the ignition and the tranny vac, I have to squeeze the line to the 3/2 to shut the engine off. Lots of oddities that simply can't be conveyed via a post.
I'll keep fighting, and just hope I don't have to buy a new one.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

one of those "black lines" that go through the firewall is a vent. In other words, it's connected to nothing, and it's MEANT to leak air. That should be connected to the bottom side of the IP mounted vacuum control valve. It's only there so it will suck air from under the dash rather than dirtier air in the engine compartment.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

You have verified my theory.....you have a vacuum leak in the 3/2 valve circuit, which when plugged or squeezed, allows the vacuum to build in the line going to the shutoff valve. I'm not sure what all that circuit does, but I know it controls the EGR valve....but not sure what else. If you have a mighty vac, it shouldn't be very hard to chase down the leak. It's either find it and repair it or separate the vacuum sources once more. Whatever, else the 3/2 circuit does, it probably hasn't been doing it properly...this includes the EGR circuit (which shouldn't be a problem).

Good luck!

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

I will give that some attention. I have no vac to EGR, and only have a single 3/2 on the valve cover. One is vac in, one is vac straight to tranny modulator, and one is capped. The vac lines are not in the proper locations per info I have seen, but I had to put them where they are, then adjust tranny modulator for correct shifting. Perfect shifting, as a matter of fact. I guess when it had it's own 'T' off the line, it didn't rob the other circuit of correct amount of vac to turn car off. The only problem, which makes no sense, is if I leave line to 3/2 undone, and just hook up other lines (which is in same configuration as before me braking off check valve), it still won't turn off.
So, I have vacuuming to do....

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Well, can you believe that something on this wagon now works! For the first time, I actually have working door/fuel door/wagon hatch locks. I've never seen how they work, and was suprised at the small wait. (too used to electric)
Found several vacuum issues. First, black line that's supposed to be IP vent, was plumbed into disconnected vac line to cruise control unit, then through firewall and end was open. That was first large 'leak'. Second, there is a yellow/black stripe hose going through firewall, then up behind middle dash area. It doesn't hold vacuum. What is that line to?
My green/yellow line to climate stuff holds vacuum. ACC not hooked up, but the line holds vacuum.
Door lock system had NO leaks, however the vac valve in driver door was bad (replaced). Front passenger door pod was hooked up backwards. All doors would lock, it would pop up. Fixed that. With everything connected (that holds vac) car will turn off fine, and door locks work. Still am going to have to do something with line to 3/2 valve for tranny vac, but I'm getting closer.
I can drive down the road with my smoke causing the birds in the trees overhead to pass out, but at least my doors were locked!

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John