Benzboy8,

If its the ring grooves that are worn, there are 2 solutions:

1. The ring grooves can be machined wider and wider rings can be used.

2. A steel ring can be placed in the ring groove after the groove is machined wider to bring the groove back to nominal size.

Both these solutions require the services of a competive automotive machine shop but this will cost a lot less than new pistons.

P E H

This is a truly noteworthy thread. I, for one, want to drive my cars forever, and that will likely mean rebuilding the engines in 5-10 years. There won't be a supply of decent used engines then and if alternatives to new pistons don't exist, rebuilds may be out of the question.

Keep talking...I'm listening.

Anybody know the odds of reusing a "nominal" turbo piston with 300K miles on it?

Rick

__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

New rings and slugs at less than 160k? Unless there was some catastrophic motor failure, I belive something is amiss. I have about 150mi short of 220k and runs great.

I could see a few seals/gaskets if you're leaking oil, heck I am from: oil cooler (have the lines to be rebuilt), turbo drain, valve cover gasket, and the front main. But that's stuff that can be done with the vehicle in place.

The pistons are from Mahle, they looked like ones from a 5.9 Cummins when I saw a set locally! Very beefy, that explains why most motors that are reman'd receive new liners as they're far cheaper.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

The engine in the discussion has 150K on the clock. Now, if you are discussing an engine that has given you faithful service for 300K, you have a different story altogether. The logic of using 300K pistons in a total overhaul of the engine becomes questionable. They have certainly reached quite a useful life, and the special attention that you will need for the rings, and the problems with fitting them to the new bores, make this approach unwise, IMHO.

You are spending quite a bit of money on a complete overhaul at this point. Why cheap out and try to use pistons with 300K on them? If one of them fails at 400K, it takes out the whole engine.

In a recent catalog put out by one of Fastlane's competitors they have 5 cyl. turbo pistons priced at $204. each ! For the 6 cyl. SD/SDL they have some pistons priced at $384.00 each ! Of course, both examples do include rings, pin and clip...how generous

__________________
Diesel-guy

Don't just go throw down cash on new pistons without, at the very least, perhaps showing us a picture of one of them. Get someone that knows how to use a dial caliper to have a look at them. It would be worth the case of beer for a machinest to give you some specs on what is what size and report back to us a little MSPaint drawn diagram with what size is what.

Yes I will report back with pictures and specs. I am very unhappy with this mechanic. I just think hes afraid to work on it.

I took everything off the engine... so I think he just does not want to handle it.. Plus he did not even clean the engine from all the oil still on it. He is not up for the task.

If anyone knows a good mechanic in the Chicago Area please feel free to tell me. Thanks

What made you think you need a rebuild in the first place? Leaking oil? How is leaking oil related to engine health? I do understand if you were burning 2 quarts of oil every thousand miles, but leaky ip, valve cover gasket, turbo, main, filter housing seals have nothing to do with the internals of the engine. You have told us that the car starts fine and does not smoke, that says just about all you need to know right there for a diesel.

I never wanted a rebuild, just valve job and new seals, gaskets. Then he calls me one day and tells me I need new pistons. At 156K miles it seems a little fishy. Now I have to take the engine back and find someone ells to work on it. I took everything off the engine and I am afraid I can't put it back together at spec. Thats why I need an honest mechanic who will not give me the "Why would I do a rebuild? To get headaces?"

The valve job seems pretty simple, if ya spend $80 and get the wrenches now you'll save in the long run. Change the VC gasket then too. The Haynes manual goes over this, it's 0.1mm and 0.3mm exhaust for the clearances as I remember.

Other stuff isn't bad at all to work on either

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Which seals did you want to replace in the first place, and why did you think you needed a valve job? Valve adjustment--yes, but valve job--I don't understand. I want to make sure I don't come accross like I'm trying to be a "know it all" because the truth is I am definately not one of the more experienced or skilled mechanics around here. And, I'm not trying to put you down. It just seems to me that there are lots and lots of MB diesel transmissions and some MB diesel engines that get a rebuild when they don't need it at all.

So, I'm just curious about what the mechanic said to you that made you think you need a valve job? I would think that no smoke and good starting means no valve job is needed. Leaking oil is a separate issue and is not related to the valves. You may have a valve cover seal--gasket leak, but that is not an engine problem. Where is your car leaking oil from?

The oil is everywhere! I dont know exactly. But whats the harm in replacing all seals, gaskets? Money ? I dont care... I love this car. Yes it does need a valve "adjusment" because its not up to par in compression. Im planning on keeping my car for a long time. Since the engine is out I thought it would be best to change anything that might go bad in the next 100K miles. Is that just brilliant or what???

Attached Thumbnails

     

more pics...

I will have engine pics and pistons soon.

Attached Thumbnails

 

AH......you took the engine out the hard way....without the transmission.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I agree.

On the 616 its probably easier to leave the tranny in cause the engine is so short but the 617 or 603...shameful...