does any one have any experience or an opinion about waterless coolants?
i am still trying to solve this 91 350 sdl head erosion problem and am considering this product(evans) as a soultion to the problem.
thanks
larry perkins
72 old cars

PE Haiges has both opinion AND experience. Do a search in the diesel forum on Evans+waterless.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

thanks leo, i should have done a search first. that is some good reading and i think i am getting right to the problem of solving the aluminum pitting on the 3.5 head.
larry perkins
72 old cars

I have used Evans Coolant on a number of competition cars over the years. It does seem to have good corrosion protection properties, but it has some unusual characteristics as well. Personally, I don't like it.

It requires a unique water pump and coolant recovery modification to both improve flow and eliminate water from entering the system. The coolant temperature is also much higher with 100% glycol, which takes some getting used to.

Basically, I found little benefit with the Evans System in endurance/road racing events. Since we didn't run a thermostat anyway, we kept coolant temperatures well below 180 degrees Fahrenheit, even under full load.

One of the best devices I have seen to control corrosion is a Zinc Anode added to the cooling system. It is sometimes referred to as 'sacrafice metal' and can be purchased through a number of sources, including JC Whitney.

It is attached to a ring that drops into the filler neck. The anode is then suspended in the coolant. Electrolysis then attacks the anode and not the other soft metal parts in the engine.

Again, my personal opinion on Evans Coolant is the benefit is not worth the investment on the average, daily driven passenger vehicle. However, if you can afford to experiment, I can tell you it really works.

We used it on a circle track car once and saw 250 (F) degree coolant temps with a zero pressure system and no boiling. This was under heavy load, in excess of 7500 rpm at an ambient temperature of over 100 degrees.

The interesting part of the story is under identical conditions, with a regular 60/40 mix of propolyene glycol and distilled water unedr 16 psi, the same engine was running 175 degrees (F) which allowed us to run leaner jetting and more ignition advance for better acceleration out of the pits and corners.

Research the website and read up on the actual experience of people (besides myself) who are/have been using the product. Then, make an informed decision.

Hope this information is helpful...Bert

It used to.....the new coolant..NPG+.is a drop in type...no modifications required......there's also been a recent price increase.
For latest infomation, go to the web site.

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

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just a thought but have you tried the MB anti-corrosion coolant?

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Larry,

I have been using Evans coolant for about 2 years now in 617, 603 and tractor engines. I didn't do any modifications to any of the cooling systems but I run with the pressure cap loose.

Driving thru the rocky mountains, the engine temperature gets higher than with a 50% water coolant going up long hills but the temperature goes back to normal on the decending grade of the hill.

The bigest advantage, in my opinion, is not having the stress of pressure on all the cooling system componants. The lower corrosion characteristics are another plus.

P E H

Whats the boiling point of this stuff ? If you leav you cap loose the it may be boiling inside the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. I don't know about how this would affect diesels but in gas engines it can give you detonation. I guess that can't happen in a diesel but what would it do to the head?

375 F zero/ambient pressure system.......
Pay ATTENTION out there. ............http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

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"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

Omegaman,

Boiling point of Evans coolant is 375*F at sea level. Probably slightly lower at high altitudes as any liquid is. The high boiling point is why it can be used unpressurized.

P E H

Is running an engine with a loose radiator cap bad?

My radiator in my 80 450SL leaks with the cap on tightly, so I loosen the cap to depressurize the cooling system so I don't keep having to add water. My engine temp guage reads the same slightly above 80c with or without cap tight. Buy the way, radiators for this car run $800 to $1200 I do plan to fix this issue soon, but am I doing damage in the mean time? I tend to doubt it, but???........BB

apples and oranges... You can't run an H2O cooling system unpressurized.
Local boiling in the exhaust pockets will eject the coolant due to steam pressure....Steam is 1700 times greater in volume than water.....
remember those puffer trains....

Evans does not boil under normal operating temperatures....you can have the system at ambient and reduce the pressure load on the cooling hoses and components....kapeesh ?

Suggest you spend a few minutes reading the tech' info' on Evans site.

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"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

This stuff cracks me up. If you have a properly working cooling system you don't need to go to exotic fluids, you are not solving your fundamental problem, you are masking a symptom.

And from what one of the users says, this is not a very good fluid for heat transfer. And don't be confused by the fact that having a 375 boiling point makes it a good coolant. Motor oil has a high boiling point but is a terrible coolant. The old Porsches are oil cooled (VW too) and they survived due to the fact the oil is in intimate contact with the engine parts that generate heat.

If it is true that it ran 75 degrees hotter, it is not doing its job, and the fact some say you need different components (water pump etc) prove its not an economical solution. I read the claims on the web site and most are vague and unverifiable. Mostly sales jive.

The best coolant is water with a wetting agent. You will have corrosion issues over the long haul so you could add corrosion inhibitor in it.

If it was really such a swell thing (above and beyond existing technology) you would see it in the new car you just bought.

Oh, and someone describe to me how you can remove *all* the water from your block and system and replace it with this stuff? If you have water in there, you will have the same old issues they claim to solve.

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MB-less

Blah blah blah....typical close minded, untried, retoric.

There is empirical testing to blow you so far out of the water you'd reach sustained orbit...Never ceases to amaze me how some folks just don't get it.

When your done trying it...then come tell me it don't work...until then, keep your uninformed opinions to the fact.....see my signature.

______________________________________________________

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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

This just reinforces my last post. 50 plus years of "oil cooling!"

If you ran the world we'd still be riding buggies and travelling by stage coach.

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."