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  #46  
Old 06-12-2005, 12:29 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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oil

yeah, i looked at my owners manual and see that 10w30 wont work in this weather. so i will have to locate some synthetic with heavier weight.

thanks for pointing this out to me.

i am used to using rotella in my diesels and you all say it isnt the best for the 603 and i am not yet solid in my sources for the correct oil.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #47  
Old 06-12-2005, 12:35 AM
Brandon314159
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Dude the blowby on my 300SD makes the oil cap bounce off its seat.
You can seal up the air intake area with silicone (the oil seperator specifically), replace the breather tubes etc, and never know you have that much blowby.
It'll run fine...trust me...
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  #48  
Old 06-12-2005, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Dude the blowby on my 300SD makes the oil cap bounce off its seat.


Meaning you leak oil from the oil cap too? If so, is there one that seals better or anything I can do?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
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  #49  
Old 06-12-2005, 01:00 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Meaning you leak oil from the oil cap too? If so, is there one that seals better or anything I can do?
I was talking about if I loosen the cap and let it float there.
Mine barley seeps oil out the cap when it is tight...I am thinking of using some form-a-gasket and sealing the rubber part to the cap and then relying on the pressure between that and the metal to seal well.
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  #50  
Old 06-12-2005, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
I was talking about if I loosen the cap and let it float there.
Mine barley seeps oil out the cap when it is tight...I am thinking of using some form-a-gasket and sealing the rubber part to the cap and then relying on the pressure between that and the metal to seal well.


I did find out that my oil cap is incorrect for my SD so that is one problem (it's some plastic Mercedes one), the other I know my valves need to be adjusted. Not sure if valve adjustment has to do with oil from the oil cap.

I swear it's off an M119 motor that the digits read under the oil cap, I'm just far too tired to go out and look at it currently.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #51  
Old 06-12-2005, 01:41 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I did find out that my oil cap is incorrect for my SD so that is one problem (it's some plastic Mercedes one), the other I know my valves need to be adjusted. Not sure if valve adjustment has to do with oil from the oil cap.
The metal one on my 300SD leaked more than the plastic one I found at a wrecking yard of a 190E.
Maybe the seal was bad but I like the plastic one I have better...it leaks but not as badly...(for now)...
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  #52  
Old 06-12-2005, 01:58 AM
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Can the seal be replaced?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #53  
Old 06-12-2005, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth

i am used to using rotella in my diesels and you all say it isnt the best for the 603 and i am not yet solid in my sources for the correct oil.
I had used Rotella-T for years on the 617 prior to switching to Rotella synthetic. I think the synthetic oil is better for the lifters on the 603 with less chance of leaving deposits on them, but, I can't swear that the Rotella-T would not do the job if you change it religiously.

From a cost standpoint, if you drive Rotella synthetic 5K miles and you drive Rotella-T 3K miles, they are very close to the same cost.

Rotella synthetic is still $13.00 per gallon at Wally.
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  #54  
Old 06-12-2005, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
The metal one on my 300SD leaked more than the plastic one I found at a wrecking yard of a 190E.
Maybe the seal was bad but I like the plastic one I have better...it leaks but not as badly...(for now)...
They don't make the metal ones anymore...all the new ones (including replacements) are plastic....
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  #55  
Old 06-12-2005, 02:32 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Can the seal be replaced?
Yep...look on fastlane and you will find the oil cap gasket.
Gasket
Oil Cap
Two types...mine was the first one.
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  #56  
Old 06-12-2005, 02:32 PM
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I bet a fuel cap would work. Those are still made out of metal. My mom drove off without putting mine back on so she lost it. I bought another one and it's MB but looks just like the older oil caps. Try it.

Thanks
David
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  #57  
Old 06-12-2005, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Yep...look on fastlane and you will find the oil cap gasket.
Gasket
Oil Cap
Two types...mine was the first one.


Excellent . Now I must find a metal oil cap and be rid of this nonsense atop my cam cover.

Any idea what I should pay for the metal oil cap?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #58  
Old 06-12-2005, 08:11 PM
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I think all of the new style oil filler caps are the same. The fuel cap trick doesn't work on the 603 at least.

Well I think I will buy it tomarrow. What the heck it is either this $500 300SD or some GM car for $1k-$1.5k.

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