Can you replace the universal joints?????
 

I have some vibration on my 83 300d. I just assumed the bearing, and the center bushing support was bad. Well, the support sure is bad, it is ripped, but the universl joint is NOT smooth. It almost seems like it "clicks" in out of place. I looked at the universal joints, and it does not look like they can be replaced. What should I do? THANKS!

P.S. I did mark the drive shaft before I took it out!

I started to just say " of course they can".... but did pull the chassis book out... lots about replacing centering sleeve...and the flex vibration dampners...
Maybe the universal joints are the only thing on the car which they could not figure out how to overengineer...thus thought no instructions were necessary on how to do them...
I feel sure they are replaceable....

Well, there are no keepers on the U/J. It looks like where the U/J was pressed in, the metal has been "rivited" as to where, you cannot press them back out. There does not seem to be a replacement part either. No option for a U/J is offered. :pukeface:

I had to replace the drive shaft because of a "click" like (I assume) you have. My research showed that the u-joints are not user rebuildable. I ordered a rebuilt and rebalanced drive shaft and replaced mine. I had to send the core back to the rebuilder, of course. The price I paid included return shipping costs and I used the box they sent it in. I received my $60.00 core charge within one week of sending the unit back. The result has been quite satisfactory. You will find my thread on "vibration cured" in which the drive shaft played a prominent role along with motor mounts, tranny mount and tension on the transmission from the exhaust hanger. I also replaced the flex disks and bolts at the time I replaced the drive shaft. The center bearing and rubber mount were included on the new drive shaft alng with the centering sleeves..

That is strange...
sounds like a solid disc is pressed into where the clips would normally be....
might have to use a core drill...then pull what is left...
and then find a clip to keep them in....
My theory has always been that if it was put together it can be taken apart and fixed... might be more work... and one level higher of machines or labor... but it is just metal....

"user rebuildable."
Have press, welder, pullers, will travel......LOL

Leathermang, do you also have the necessary tools to rebalance the drive shaft? That was the problem I found that was the most difficult. I tried to find a place in the Indianapolis area who could do it and came up empty. Each shop I called said they did not have the necessary tooling for Mercedes Benz and asked me why I was trying to do it the hard way. Why didn't I simply buy a rebuilt? I found it was cheaper than replacing the u-joint and then sending the driveshaft to someone who could balance it.

I have read the instructions for rebuilding the steering box... that is not a ' user rebuildable' item in my opinion... but they have all the instructions and special tools described...
They should have given the sizes of whatever special tools are needed to deal with it... and described how to balance it...
It is just a piece of metal.

leathermang, Well you are welcome to come give me a hand anytime!! :D :D You can't be more than 6hrs away from me. In Texas thats a block down the street!!LOL!! Where you is in Central Texas, I am in Beaumont. As far at the driveshaft, anything is do-able with time and money!!! Don't know which is harder to come by!!! Thanks!

25 miles East of Austin
 

That is probably about right on the time to drive that....
I have an axle out on a table.... I will look at it and see if I can figure something out... just seems too simple an item to have to give it up to a " pro"... and those ' pros' are too far apart and charge a LOT as a result. I think Randy took his to San Antonio as far as I know....

It's been done.
 

A friend of mine faced this exact problem, and we re-installed a new U-joint, although it was not a "factory" repair. We used a die grinder to achieve the clearance to get the old U-joint out of the cast yoke. they can be driven out like "normal" u-joints after that.

After getting the new ones in place, we "staked" the edges over with a cold chisel. Like I said, not exactly a factory MB repair, but the car is still going down the road quite well, and with no driveline clanking.

SteveM.

I have no idea what your cost savings were, but my net cost to replace the drive shaft with a rebuilt unit with new u-joint, new rubber mount and new bearing was $248.00 It took less than an hour to change. If it would have taken more than three hours longer to replace just the u-joint in my drive shaft, not even counting the cost of the u-joint or u-joint parts and the rubber mount and bearing (both of which my car needed and were included with the drive shaft along with new centering sleeves), then I would be better off working the three hours in my business and I would be be money ahead. Plus, I have a warranted, balanced drive shaft. I know that everyone has different priorities and that each of us has to make relative sense of what decisions we make, so no one answer is right for everyone. This was, in my opinion, the best choice for me and I'm very happy with it. After all the maintenance was finished, my car ran smoother than at any time in the last ten years.

Mike,

Who was your source for the driveshaft rebuild?

Ken300D

Ken300D

Please check your private messages.

Driveshaft supplier?
 

Mike, I'd like to know who you did business with on the 123 shaft too.