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#1
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New front Yokos are pretty much shot...
after only about 3k, I'm already thru most of the tread on both inner shoulders... Obviously I need to be paying much more attention.
I pretty much only drive on the hiway at hi speeds. Tires are slightly overinflated @ about 33 psi. Max psi for these tires is 35 From the front, the car definately looks like its 'squatting' I've searched, but I'm just not too clear on the front suspension dynamics of my benz. (guess I'm only smart enuff to understand the str8 axle setup on my jeep.) where should I start? alignment by a competant shop? would new front springs fix the 'squat'? non-mbz mechanic down the street said 'ball-joints' only positive is I got these tires at the junkyard for $15 ea and mount and balance was also $15 ea, so @ $60, this is actually one of my less expensive 'lessons learned the hard way' rear tires are fine. TIA, cheers, Robert
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Cheers, Robert |
#2
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3000 miles
I would find a competent Shop and get a 4-Wheel Alignment done on your Car ASAP. 33 psi is not really over-inflated and wouldn't cause the wear you describe. You may have worn front suspension components but a good alignment shop should check for this before they waste your money on the alignment itself. Good Luck
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1991 M-B 560SEL Arctic White/Grey 99,000 Miles 1987 M-B 300SDL Ivory/Palomino 229,000 Miles (sold but never forgotten) 2006 Volvo XC70 Blue/Beige 1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige 1986 Porsche 928S Goldweiss/Brown |
#3
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That's the way my tires were wearing too. Most of the issue for me was the upper control arm bushings were shot. They were cheap to buy and easy to replace. Look there first.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#4
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I've been playing around with camber on the rear wheels. The M/B tends to have negative camber most of the time, whereby the tops of the tires are closer to the centerline of the vehicle than the bottom of the tires.
You can get a very rough guide on camber by placing a 24" level across the face of the tire when the tires are pointed straight ahead. Pull the level off the top of the tire until it is dead plumb and look at the distance between the tire face and the level. It should not be more than about 1/4". Any more than this and the camber is too far negative and it will begin to wear the inside of the tires. The SDL is currently at 3/4" in the back. |
#5
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Front end rebuild time.
I'd do upper and lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, guide rod mount bushings, and any other bushing you can find. While you are at it put on a new set of tie rods, drag link, rebuild idler arm and repack the front bearings.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#6
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Excessive wear on both inner edges of front tires indicates excessive toe out. In your case it is VERY excessive. Caster and camber have to be WAY out to cause such wear and the odds of it being the same on both sides is nil.
Although a four wheel alignment doesn't hurt anything, you need to set the toe on zero, check all steering linkage and wheel bearings for tightness before doing so. Good luck, |
#7
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alignment
i think that trying to align the rear wheels is wasted effort. they rarely go out and im not sure there is any adjustment in any case. imo the shops say they are doing all four wheels and charge for all four but dont really do anything at all in the back.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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Quote:
As far as rear toe, I don't see how to perform any adjustments for it on a W126 without purchasing an eccentric set of bushings for the trailing arm. |
#9
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Quote:
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#10
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rear
we're talking about the rear.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#11
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Anybody know if rear toe can be adjusted on the W126 without the installation of special trailing arm bushings??
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#12
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rear
dont know but suspect some kind of shims might be available or could be fabricated by a zany engineer.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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Quote:
It seems that the entire trailing arm must rotate about a vertical axis to change the toe. |
#14
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shimmy
dont know just pure specualtion on my part. there must be a way... offset bolts... offset bolt plate... no specific idea without actually looking at it.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#15
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I decided to drive my jeep for a while and put the benz in storage. Just got her back out. Thanks for the all the replies. Based on them heres how I proceded...
parked on level surface. I put a strait edge vertically on the rim, then put a level on that... the RF tire only showed a modest cant inward, looking at the eccentric washer, it had defintely been moved from its original position. But the LF showed 1 inch or more. I looked at the eccentric washer and still appears to be at the factory setting. Additionally, theres cosmetic damage to the LFQP that may not be so cosmetic. This tire is in worse condition. Since the skinnerbox site is down, I dont have a diagram handy. How precisely does one adjust the eccentric washer? Is it welded or fitted to the bolt so that it can be adjusted? Is one inch too far out of spec? I'm acquiring the parts to refurb the front end, I don't want to take it to a shop until then. But I still want to drive another 500 to 1k miles on these dam tires.
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Cheers, Robert |
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