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  #16  
Old 06-06-2005, 03:50 PM
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The last time i used the ac a few months ago, it worked fine, just blew cold air up onto the windshield, which caused it to fog over in high humidity.
so i removed the acuator that controls this flap and manually closed it and removed the vaccume pump. the pump is $60, for a cheap electric motor with a plastic housing, the motor is self is probably like $10 at hobby shop if the fan blade at the end cam be removed and replaced, along with resodering the wires.

Does this pump control anything else that would affect cooling?

Thanks

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  #17  
Old 06-06-2005, 03:58 PM
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Do you mean it fogged the windshield on the OUTSIDE when it was blowing cold air up towards it ?
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2005, 03:59 PM
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yes, by the way its an 1985 300sd
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  #19  
Old 06-06-2005, 03:59 PM
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Skypants... you might want to tell us what model and year car you have....
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2005, 04:01 PM
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LOL.. you were reading my mind....
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  #21  
Old 06-06-2005, 04:06 PM
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i dont think the vacume pump was working, the 90 deg rubber tube at the end was kinked and doesnt allow much if any flow. i had no way to test the acuator but i sucked on the holes and it seemed to work. i just didnt re install it because with no vacume it pushes the flap closed to vent the air onto the windshield.
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  #22  
Old 06-06-2005, 04:15 PM
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Well, If we are communicating.... I don't think you can call that a complaint....
all it means is that your AC was putting out enough cold air to reduce the temperature of the windshield to below dew point for that particular barometric pressure and humidity in the air...
THAT IS A GOOD THING.....LOL
Most of our AC's are designed to come on ANYTIME the defroster is on...so that the INSIDE will not get moisture on it ..
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  #23  
Old 06-06-2005, 04:31 PM
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This i understand.

My compressor belt blew a few weeks or months ago, i was unaware, my girlfriend drives the car and just complained of no ac.

Today i replaced the belt and the a/c is very poor, it was retrofitted to 134 a few years ago so i got a can to top it off. I also understand that 134 is not as cool as r12 but its cheaper to refill cause i have a leaky compressor that needs a fill every year or so. but lately its been more often, im sure the compressor is almost dead as it makes a ton of racket.

As i explained earlier i removed a vacume pump behind the golve box and an acuator. It was an attempt to get the a/c blowing out the front vents due to afore mentioned problem. does this pump control anything else that could make the a/c work? anything else i need to check?

So any ideas would be help full

Thank you

ps dont mean to sound curt im just savin on typing.

Last edited by skypants; 06-06-2005 at 04:41 PM.
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  #24  
Old 06-06-2005, 05:16 PM
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I think what you are calling a vacuum pump behind your glove box is the sample motor for the thermostat. This motor draws air over the thermostat to control the set temperature. I just removed mine from my 201. I cleaned and oiled the motor and it works like new. If air is not going where it should be than you have vacuum leaks. New acutators cost $70 to $80 each. I have replaced a total of 5 acuators on all my cars.
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2005, 05:34 PM
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ohhhh, ok. i was wondering, it didnt seem like a motor that could produce much suction. It is on the far right side of the glove box compartment? got it.

Then the next issue is the acuator that controls the air flow from the windshield to the front vent, i yanked it out and manually closed the flap, but there is still very little air moving out the front center vents, none going up to the windshied, but a ton coming out the side vents. what is the best way go get all that working again. so the air goes where i want?

How do i know if it is an acuator thats bad or if there is no vacume to the acuators?

Thank you a bunch. that fan thing is goin back in today.

and bummer about vacume LEAKS. those are a PITA to trouble shoot. might just leave it in manual mode if i can get more air out the center vents.

Last edited by skypants; 06-06-2005 at 05:57 PM.
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  #26  
Old 06-06-2005, 07:22 PM
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I think this is about the time we suggest you buy or borrow a MityVac....a little hand vacuum pump with a few fittings which will allow you to determine if the unit itself responds to vacuum....
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2005, 12:08 AM
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leak

if your ac is leaking out at the end of the summer...
you probably just need new "O" rings... a few bucks and you
can put them in yourself... at each fitting...
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2005, 01:21 AM
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skypants,
i've learned a lot ....the hard way. your center vents are controled by a vac actuator that is located directly behind the vents and is only accesible after removal of the glove box. the defroster actuator has 3 positions the i'll call them "down" "neutral" and "up". the up position shuts the defrosters off completely and is actuated by the same vac line as the center vent actuator. if the center actuator is leaking, the defroster won't shut off. the vacuum is channeled by means of 5 solenoid vac switches located directly behind the climate control, i think #2 operates the center vents, if this solenoid isn't working there will be no vac to the actuators. you should be able to feel it "click" when you turn the AC on and off.
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  #29  
Old 05-23-2007, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skypants View Post
I have a similar problem, just charged my ac and it is barley even cool.
i believe my mono valve has been bad for a long time, i thought a symptom of a bad mono valve was the heater working until you get up to speed and then wont work again until the car is shutdown.

I was unaware it would affect the A/C cooling.
Is this the case? I have a 91 2.6 190e with very little AC. When I say very little, I have no cold air at idle and cool, not cold, air at speed. I was thinking that I would just recharge the unit, but at the going rate of $80. per pound for R12, I would rather step back a second and figure out what the "real" problem is.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Dale
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  #30  
Old 05-23-2007, 03:26 PM
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ah, 12 is nowhere near 80.00/lb.
more like 10 or 15 max.
get it online.
John

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