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  #16  
Old 06-09-2005, 12:40 PM
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Thanks again for all the inputs.
Just called the dealership. The gasket will set me back by $45. Ouch.
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2005, 12:42 PM
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I just did mine a week ago, I used a mercedes gasket and permatex makes a sealer in a spray can and it is very tacky I sprayed both sides of gasket to help hold it in place the spray is paper thin after applied and used carberator cleaner to clean oil off of bolts and cleaned inside of bolt holes and then torked bolts in three steps. No leaks at all?
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2005, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakerat
I just did mine a week ago, I used a mercedes gasket and permatex makes a sealer in a spray can and it is very tacky I sprayed both sides of gasket to help hold it in place the spray is paper thin after applied and used carberator cleaner to clean oil off of bolts and cleaned inside of bolt holes and then torked bolts in three steps. No leaks at all?
What torque did you use? Did you use a special torque wrench for this because of the low number (7-9 N-m ?)
Someone else mentioned an oil screen that I could clean while I'm down there. True?
David
83 300 DT
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2005, 12:50 PM
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"and used carberator cleaner to clean oil off of bolts and cleaned inside of bolt holes and then torked bolts in three steps."

I completely agree with the three steps for taking down stuff... both sheetmetal and heads and such...

The correct way to clean a bolt hole so that this method is actually doing what you are hoping it will do... is to run a tap into the hole... and then use a cleaner in it... even a tiny burr on a thread greatly changes the torque readings and thus negates lots of good work....
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2005, 02:05 PM
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[QUOTE=leathermang]"and used carberator cleaner to clean oil off of bolts and cleaned inside of bolt holes and then torked bolts in three steps QUOTE]
Can you elaborate on the three-step torque technique?
Thanks.
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  #21  
Old 06-09-2005, 02:42 PM
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Check fastlane for the pan and gasket, they have both for your car. Gasket $18.32 and pan $37.28. Plus whatever shipping will be on the pan, which is fairly heavy... but I can't imagine it's that bad.

I did this job several months ago, and didn't order from FastLane because I'm just not that bright, and paid something like $60 for the pan and $30 for the gasket Scraping the old gasket off wasn't particularly difficult, just a little time-consuming, and I didn't find it necessary to use any sealer on the gasket, either. I suppose that's a matter of preference, though. My difficulty was mine was full of oil that couldn't be drained -- messy!
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  #22  
Old 06-09-2005, 02:50 PM
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The job.

617 engine, replacing the oil separator check valve in the upper oil pan.


Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #23  
Old 06-09-2005, 03:01 PM
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[QUOTE=djohnson64]
Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"and used carberator cleaner to clean oil off of bolts and cleaned inside of bolt holes and then torked bolts in three steps QUOTE]
Can you elaborate on the three-step torque technique?
Thanks.
Forget the 3 step sequence, in this case. The mentioned procedure, a normal and very good procedure, for "normal" torquing. BUT the oil pan is torqued to 9-11 NM. So it is very light. You should consider getting a very low setting torque wrench. Normal torque wrenches that start at 35 FtLbs. The 9-11 Nm is about 6-8 Ft Lbs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2696

Reuse your pan unless damaged ( scrapes are OK and usually normal). Check it for a flat mating surface. Place a straight edge on the contact surface and make sure it is not warped. If it is then consider replacing it. If not then reuse it.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #24  
Old 06-09-2005, 03:41 PM
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Three step method...

I am just saying you should not crank it down one bolt at a time... that is sure to warp sheet metal like a pan... or crack a cast iron object subject to heat like a head...

finger tighten everything...then typically starting at the middle bolts snug them a little and then proceed in an ever widening circle until you have all of them half tight... then do the same thing taking them to the measured proper torque.... I have an inch /lb torque wrench for this stuff..

Concerning the RTV.... the danger comes from people using WAY TOO MUCH...
My method is to put as thin a layer onto each side of whatever is fitting together as I can with my finger....this includes the gasket... and let it
cure....like several hours... or overnight...then at exactly when you are putting it together ( typical skin time is 10 minutes on this stuff ) I smear one of those surfaces on each side of the gasket with another thin coat... none should squeeze out of the joint that way... and it makes exceptionally good joints.... I got these instructions off the side of the tube way back.. and have not had a gasket leak in 25 years...
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2005, 05:25 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
Concerning the RTV.... the danger comes from people using WAY TOO MUCH...
My method is to put as thin a layer onto each side of whatever is fitting together as I can with my finger....this includes the gasket... and let it
cure....like several hours... or overnight...then at exactly when you are putting it together ( typical skin time is 10 minutes on this stuff ) I smear one of those surfaces on each side of the gasket with another thin coat... none should squeeze out of the joint that way... and it makes exceptionally good joints.... I got these instructions off the side of the tube way back.. and have not had a gasket leak in 25 years...
Hmm...interesting. I like the sound of that.
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  #26  
Old 06-11-2005, 01:29 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the superb support.
I started the project this afternoon, and unfortunately had a setback.
All of the hex bolts came out except for the one holding the transmission line on the pasenger side. I used PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench on it, but somehow managed to mess up. I think I must have worn out the inside of the bolt, and now I can't turn it counterclockwise. I still can tighten it, though.
Any advice?
Thanks.
David
83 300DT
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  #27  
Old 06-11-2005, 01:46 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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drill

you may be able to get on it with a vise grip and get it loose that way. be super careful and grip it really tight before trying to turn. if it slips it will chew a lot of metal away. also, before trying the vise grip, maybe you can still get it out with the allen... if you clean the inside of the allen head really well with cleaner and drive it in with a hammer and put penetrat oil and perhaps add heat maybe youc an get it out.
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  #28  
Old 06-11-2005, 01:55 AM
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Well welcome to the world of stripped bolts.
The best way to remove the bolt is to drill a hole in the center of the bolt. Be careful to make sure you stay in the center of the bolt. Then use an easy out to remove the bolt.

http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/

You will need a new bolt from either Mercedes or a local hardware store, A really good hardware store. It's an unusual bolt for normal stores.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #29  
Old 06-11-2005, 10:25 AM
mattdave
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If you are using a differnt pan

If you are using a different pan be aware of the fact that not all upper oil pans are the same. The early w116 pans are different then the w123 pans donít ask how I know this. I also vote fore no sealant on the gasket. If you need a transmission line bolt I believe I have a few of them if you need I can check and drop one in first class mail you should have it in a day or two IM me if you want me to mail one to you. And boy arent some of those bolts a joy to get out.
Dave S
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  #30  
Old 06-12-2005, 03:27 AM
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Dave,
Thanks for the offer. I got one from the junk yard today. If this doenn't work out, I'll PM you.
You guys rock.
David.
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