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#1
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help! anybody
While attempting to adjust my idle rpms, i over torqued the idle control bolt on my 82 - 300SD and accidentally broke the metal that the screw mounted to, is there any hope of repair? any way of bypassing this? anything i can do!? currently, the car will start but the moment the throttle linkage is moved it lockes up and stops the engine (as if someone physically pressed the stop portion of it)
Here is a picture of the metal fixture i am speaking of: In the red circle of the second picture, i dont have my digital camera with me Here is what remains of where the screw goes into, no camera so i drew it Last edited by JamesDean; 06-10-2005 at 09:13 PM. |
#2
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I seem to remember someone else doing the exact same thing awhile ago.
I can't remember who. Try and do some searches using "idle screw" and see what you get. |
#3
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JB Weld?
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#4
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ok update i have an acutal picture of what broke, its from ebay. i circled in red the idle screw, in blue the piece that broke.
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#5
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You don't have many options other than an approach that uses JB Weld. You can't weld the piece back in place due to the tolerances in the IP.
As best as I can see, the broken piece is part of the housing of the IP, correct? The screw does not have a lot of force on it, so, if you can get some good contact on clean surfaces, the JB Weld might do a good job for you. |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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To raise your idle speed, you'd first loosen the 14mm nut, hold it and turn the screw clockwise, then tighten the nut back down.
__________________
1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#8
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Update
UPDATE: I talked to a machinist I know and he had a look, He has 2 ideas on how to fix this without welding:
1) In the picture, on the left is what remains, on the right the new steel fabrication. The Idea here is simple, get a 3/16 or 1/4" piece of steel. Cut it to size. Then on the IP, drill 2 small holes on the left and right side of the whats left of that mount. Then on the fabricated piece do the same and tap a hole in the middle for the Idle Adjust screw. (Is it EXATLY 14mm?) and then using alan screws fasten that newly fab'd piece to the old and done. 2) Next Idea. This one is a little different. He located a bolt off the side of the IP. He thought about making an L piece that bolt onto the end threads of that bolt. Then it would go on and sit right where the idle adjust screw should be sitting. I looked up the bolt's function (the one he wanted to use the end of) its called the Full-Load Stop bolt. In the service manual here is what is said (when installing the pump) "Check whether connecting rod (5) is correctily set, moving control lever (1) to full-load stop (2) for this purpose. Operating lever (8) must have approx. .5mm clearance from full-load stop (6)." Do you see attaching something to the end of that bolt (after the nut) as being a problem in way? Below is a picture of the idea. Keep in mind it will be properly angled, suffice it to say, I cannot draw very will Paint. I would appreciate your feedback. This is a HECK of a lot cheaper than a new/used pump. And A lot easier than finding all the peices for JB Weld. Also it doesnt endanger the pump like welding would. So which idea do you support? Kris |
#9
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The second method, absolutely. I had the exact same idea as soon as I started reading this. You are asking for trouble if you start drilling into the side of the IP. The screw you are referring to is indeed the full load screw. Make an L-bracket with a thru hole and sock it down with a nut that fits onto the full load bolt. Obviously, the other end of the "L" gets a threaded hole to receive the idle stop screw.
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#10
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Quote:
My only advice is to have the machinist mill the top of the remaining portion on the pump so that it is flat and can accept the new piece. Additionally, I can't tell from the sketch the size of the cap screws that the machinist is proposing to use. You would probably need two #8's as a minimum. #10's would be better if you have the space. If you can't get #8's to fit, you are running too much risk in terms of strength. The big 14 mm thread can bend them right over if you are not careful. The machinist must clamp the IP securely to do the work. BE SURE that he does not use any more clamping pressure then absolutely necessary. Most machinists like to torque the piece down very strongly. The pump won't tolerate this. |
#11
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I vote #1 as well for the same reasons as Brian. The simplest solution is always the best.
__________________
Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
#12
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why not just,,,
set the idle where you want it, then put some jb weld in the area.
Of course if you ever wanted to change the idle you'd have to jb weld it again. This way you don't have any engineering work, no chance of accidently drilling a whole wher you shouldn't, it'll take alot less time, effort and money. Chances are you won't need to adjust the idle again, but if you should, the jbweld could be removed. Another thing about the jbweld, since the idle adjust is threaded, you might even be able to adjust the idle without removing the old jbweld, but just add a little more to lock it again. www.benzbonz.biz marty |
#13
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I think we've decided on idea #2, he fabricated a trial part based on some rough mesaurements. The idea is sound. and it look like it will work. I have to check the threads on the idle adjust bolts to see what they are so we can find a nut for that. And I have to check the size and threads on the full-load stop bolt. If any of you out there know these things please tell me. it will save a lot of time. He is going to make the new L bracket thing out of angle steel. It looks as if this might fix it. I'll adjust the idle up to about 650-700 and leave it there. Then i will be all set.
Also, We chose this idea because, i really do not want to pull out the fuel pump, Its in there working fine, i dont want to mess that up. comments? Thanks Kris |
#14
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I just took a look at my IP over lunch. I feel even more strongly that #2 is the way to go. Even drilling straight down on that tab will be difficult as there is little room. Removing the IP to do this would be, IMHO, just ridiculous. If you make a nice, strong simple L-piece and bolt it on, there is no disassembly or drilling on the car at all. In fact, if part of the tab is left with 1/2 a threaded hole, the same idle adjustment screw can be threaded through the L-bracket and then through/into/guided by the remaining threaded tab below. Either way Kris, good luck, I bet you get this fixed OK. Looks like you made a pretty good effort in explaining the issue.
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#15
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I've now changed my opinion.
To avoid pulling the IP and running the risk of damage to the IP, solution #2 is preferable if you can work out the details. I was under the assumption that the pump had to be removed in either case. |
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