No I didn't get any pictures. I thought about it, but I didn't want to do that to my digital camera. There was a constant 1/8 inch thick black coating on my hands. It was loosing a quart every 500 miles. I didn't want ya'll to see my crooked tap job either. They aren't pretty but they are sealed.

I finished installing my engine yesterday. The leak from the rear of the engine was the same, possibly worse. I'm going to do the dye in the oil thing and pull the tranny. Anybody got any suggestions? It leaks about one drop every second.

The Leak is Fixed
 

I borrowed a UV light from a mechanic friend and bought some oil dye. My friend told me to use two bottles, but I only used one. I should have use two like he said. I had some difficulty seeing the dye. I tracked it down to the lower gallery that feeds the main bearing. I pulled the plug and wrapped teflon tape around it (4 turns) and tightened it down. I then put the backing plate and flywheel on and I put two bolts to hold the starter on and started it up. It really was not that loud. I let it idle about 5 minutes and no leak. :)

I had a leaking valve cover gasket that only leaked in the back. I would have bet my life it was the rear main seal because I had just replaced the one in the front. It was by pure mistake I noticed it.

Frank, can you expand on the B2 piston issue? I was planning on replacing my rear main seal this weekend, but after reading this thread, I'm not convinced that's where the problem lies... I've already replaced the pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and the two gaskets on the oil filter assembly. I keep seeing oil in the seem between the engine and transmission.

Does the crank have to be pulled to replace the seal? Does the engine? I was planning on just pulling the transmission...

Any help appreciated!

-Colin

If it is the 616 or 617 diesel engine they yest to both. Pulling the tranny won't allow replacement of the rear main on these engines.