Compressor checks:

Best done with a cold engine to exclude heating from coolant or radiation.
1. When the A/C compressor cuts in, the compressor loads the motor (takes power to compress the refrigerant).
2. The compressed refrigerant is hot (IIRC Boyle's Lay - compressing a gas causes it to increase in temperature)
3. The Drier has a window where you can check to see if bubbles are passing thru the HP side of the system. If you can see bubbles, you have enough coolant to make a liquid in the condensor. This is good. No bubbles = no refrigerant.
4. The A/C will cool the air - ensure heater is not reheating the air by blocking the coolant to the heater core, or starting with a cold engine.
5. The LP refrigerant will be cool or cold. The refrigerant line from the condensor to the compressor will be cool.

Please report back on your outcome.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

..................line from the evaporator to the compressor will be cool.

Hmmm, I spose I'll have to wait for my Haynes manual to arrive. I can't seem to find any 'window' to observe 'bubbles' anywhere near the AC compressor...

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1982 Silver 300DT

its on the top of the dryer which is behind the right sde (passenger) headlight...its tiny only about 1/4 " or so.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Thanks bone. If that is to mean the small, round, somewhat clear plastic cap with the word 'Elmwood' (among other letters and numbers), then I saw no bubbles. I hit the strongest fan setting on both the solid double arrows and the one solid arrow and the engine does seem to bog down a little, so perhaps it's simply a lack of refrigerant. There's some sort of threaded valve-like device in-line with some piping near the compressor. I'm assuming this thing was never converted, so perhaps I can tap in a can of that R12-like substance?
Obviously, I'm just leaving the cradle on this subject and as such, I appreciate your advice and patience.

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1982 Silver 300DT

Before you jump in with both feet...do a lot of reading on Cair conditioning...and know what you need to do and what not to do.....and know you will need the proper tools.

I understand there is the possibility that becasue you don't see bubbles may mean nothing...if guages find no pressure its got a leak that needs fixed..and under no circumstances EVER put leak sealer into the system. You will forever ruin it. I am getting close to diagnosing and fixing my own W123 system and have been reading everything I can. There is so much to learn.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Thanks for the advice.
I may take it to a 'pro' just to get their opinion. Today was a reasonably warm day and I was able to run the climate control to see if the AC worked-it didn't feel cool at all. Again, I think the engine seems under a greater load when I engage the AC, but I'm not positive.
It would be wonderful if all it needed was a recharge, but things never seem to be that simple. Though, my non-working windshield washer was simply a case of a kinked tube. Ya never know...

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1982 Silver 300DT

The cruise control on my 300SD doesn't work either and I haven't even researched it yet. That's partly because I came up against such a dead end on my BMW's dead CC, which I would really like to have working. On that one, there's an actuator, which actually moves the throttle, and what they call the "amplifier" which I can only imagine is the brains of it.

I replace both twice with bone yard parts -- no luck. The switch works, I tested it with a knowledgeable friend. The two parts I mentioned are around $500 new. I can't figure out which is the problem, perhaps both, and $1000 is more than I want to spend on cruise control on a car with that kind of miles (237K).

If you have some luck with yours, I'd be interested to hear about it.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Have you checked your monovalve yet...

It could have torn allowing hot collant into the heater.

Just a thought becasue if the A/C compressor is engaging and pumping uless there is a malfaunction it sees refridgerant pressure.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Although one can never be fully protected, I like some of the following rules when purchasing cars off ebay:

1. Never send money ahead of time. Make your pickup soon after the purchase price and cover this with the guy ahead of time. that way, all you stand to loose is the travel price. If he is not willing, look for another car.

2. Talk, talk, talk and have one of your picky friends call him as well. Get a gut feel from 2 or 3 different people

3. Buy south for rust, etc.

DP

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

-I popped the used sunroof switch in that I got from junqyardjim and, VIOLA!!! the sunroof works beautifully.
-I was able to mess with the rheostat a bit and now the instrument lights work great.
-I pulled the windshield washer hose out from under the reservoir and now it works great.
-The transmission fluid was virtually non-existant on the dipstick, so I hope a fluid/filter/gasket change will help with the slipping between 3rd and 4th when it's cold.

There are a number of other problems, but I'm gonna fix em, one way or another.

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1982 Silver 300DT

I talked to last owner-he seems willing to discuss some sort of compensation.
What a clusterf*ck.
At any rate, he said some 'o ring' right near where coolant is added has dried out and is leaking. They supposedly converted it to the new stuff.
I'll probably have it taken to an AC shop and have the dye pumped in to see where it's leaking from...

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1982 Silver 300DT

Saw your original post and thought I would put in my two cents worth. It is a very difficult thing to buy a car without ever seeing it in person. With that said, I bought one on eBay. It is a 1985 300TD turbdiesel US version.

The guy who had it listed took four crappy photos, was difficult to make contact with, and had the starting bid price at $2,000. I think the starting bid scared everyone off. I made contact with him and asked for more photos, which he said he would send and never did. So I never bid on the car, and neither did anyone else. After the auction ended, I made contact again and I negotiated a price of $2,400, which I thought was an excellent price given what other TDs are going for on eBay.

During the auction and after, I asked him at least twice if the car had any rust at all, and he said that it did not. I rode the train down to Baltimore from New York to check out the car, and told myself that if it wasn't what he said, that I would walk away. The first thing I looked at was the undercarriage, and found surface rust without much difficulty. Obviously, this guy didn't even look or was lying. But the rust was just superficial except around the AC dryer, the bottom of the rear hatch and the bottom rear of the left rear quarter panel, where there was a little rust through, but still not bad. The car is definately not a rust bucket.

I drove the car and it drove great, negotiated down to $2,250, gave him cash, got the title and drove the car back to Long Island.

So far, I have changed the oil, checked the rest of the fluids, gave it a good cleaning and wax job, and replaced all the brake parts on the four wheels.

I think it was a good experience, given what I paid for the car, but I would be hesitiant to buy another car listed on eBay.

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Doug

1987 300TD x 3
2005 E320CDI

I bought my 300D on Ebay and it was a good experience. The seller guaranteed in writing that the car was as he described it. I have a feeling there was some shill bidding but I don't have a problem with the final price as I got exactly what I wanted. I sent a $200 deposit via paypal and had the rest in cash. I told the guy (dealer) the day I was arriving to pick it up but not the time. I showed up unannounced to surprise him and get a look at the car without any sort of prep time to hide things. Before paying for the car I drove it and there was a front end shimmy and the car never warmed up. The thermostat was replaced and the tires balanced while I went to lunch a block down the street, which they paid for. After that all was well and I drove 900miles home without incident. I was fully prepared to walk away from the deal or negotiate down if the car was not exactly as described. There is no harm in walking away from an Ebay deal if the vehicle is misrepresented. Sure you risk the travel time/cost but thats part of the game. For northern buyers seeking a rust-free car Ebay is one of the few ways to find one. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

I never did update this thread.
I did NOT receive any compensation from the seller. I whacked his Ebay feedback, but that does nothing for me.
The reason why the tranny fluid was low is because there is a persistant leak above the tranny pan-I replaced the pan and gasket AND torqued it to factory specs, but the drip is from above.
Also, the tranny 'flares' from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. I am hoping (praying!) that the various adjustments mentioned on this board will solve that problem.
I'm on the verge of digging back into this car to try and make it right, without going bankrupt in the process.
All I can say is if you buy a car on Ebay, you'd better get some sort of independent inspection before bidding or you're asking for an a$$kicking.

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1982 Silver 300DT