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#16
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#17
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stockdad, you're better off getting it replaced. BTW, get the seal from the dealer. I bet at least 3/4 of the people who I've talked to about replacing MB window gaskets said their aftermarket seals leaked. The aftermarket seal that was put on my 116 leaked the day after it was put in. 3 visits later it still leaked. I think it slowed down later though. Moral of the story, go to the dealer and pay the $85 or whatever it is then pay the additional $100 for installation and enjoy a dry trunk. If you take it to a glass shop they could probably tell you whether or not it is leaking. Or, just have someone lock you in the trunk and have them spray it with water. You, using a flashlight should be able to trace it even if it is a minor leak. Just be sure to pull out the trunk lining so you can see everywhere, then, make sure they'll let you out. (take a cell phone with you incase the person spraying dies suddenly from a freak accident)
Do you have any tears in your trunk seal? Thanks David
__________________
_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#18
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Well, it turns out that the cracked left tail light might have been the culprit in the leaky trunk. It's replaced (thanks junqueyardjim!), so we'll see if that's the problem...
__________________
1982 Silver 300DT |
#19
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The cracked tailight leak has been mentioned in the archives...
I only mentioned that Lexol is sold by the Dealerships as an indication of its quality and as a quality endorsement... not to suggest that would be the place to buy it... Tandy and The Leather Factory ( one company now ) carry it also... |
#20
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If you are getting water in the driver's side of your trunk check the gasket on the radio antenna. This will cause the area behind the rear wheel to rust.
Clean out the trunk well, fix any rust, and then coat the entire area with linseed oil. It will flow into all the small cracks and doesn't harden. I just went through this with my 115. I had a 30 year old trunk seal and bad as it was it didn't leak mostly because of the shape of the lip where the seal mounts. Water can't get up over this lip. It just runs around the outside of the seal and drains out along the bottom near the trunk latch. Cars with a heated rear window tend to rust out where the electric wire come from the trunk into the window. In my slc the wire comes into the trunk on the passenger side. On the 115, even though the chassis are the same, there was a wire on both sides. If you have rust in these areas you have to remove the rear window to fix it properly. Use this as an exuse to install a new gasket. This is also a MAW (might as well) situation. Since you already have the rear window is out check your headliner. If it is old and faded and you have always wanted to replace it you are half way there since you have to remove both the front and back windows inorder to change the headliner. Since you are going to take out the front window you MAW change the front gasket. It just never ends. If you go this route search the site about repalcing the windows. I did both in my 115 and my slc. There are some tricks even in you get a 'professional' to do it. |
#21
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For leather care products including the Lexol line try www.tandyleather.com
Go to the left hand column of their page and click on conditioner/tanning. They have an upholstery care kit there too.
__________________
1983 300-D turbo 1985 300-D turbo 1959 Harley Panhead chopper 1929 Ford coupe restored I hang out with Boneheaddoctor at Schuman Automotive OBK#5 All liberals are mattoids but not all mattoids are liberal. |
#22
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Well, the tail light swap didn't stop the leak. I'll try the antenna gasket-is that something you can buy? I'll check the parts sites.
The last thing I want to do is change out the rear window seal-that sounds incredibly complex, but I'll do what it takes to do it right.
__________________
1982 Silver 300DT |
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