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  #16  
Old 01-04-2015, 12:10 PM
edge's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
i.d. is inside diameter. Don't go and buy that vinyl hose from home Depot, that was just a suggestion so he can make a connection to the tank breather under the car so he can blow into it to test if it was clogged.

I did not drain the tank. I crimped both the rubber supply hose at the tank and the cigar hose with a vise grip before undoing the hose clamps to drain the metal fuel line (into a pan). Have plenty of rags handy. If you can work methodically you can do it without spilling a drop on yourself or the ground. Lay cardboard down and use a small pan. Loosely snake the nylon line under the car starting from the engine bay and hose clamp it to the cigar hose, zip tie the nylon line to the metal fuel line (which you leave in place) till you reach the rubber hose at the tank, cut the nylon line to length then hose clamp it to the tank rubber line. Undo the vise grips and prime the system and you're done. The key is the nylon line which is tough and stiff (won't sag like rubber) but flexible enough to be easily routed and zip tied to the existing metal lines. I've been using it for under the car fuel lines for 8 years now with no issues. The stuff I have is water clear and does not yellow with age so you can see what's in it easily. I still have a small supply left if you want to buy some. VW's use nylon fuel lines under the car which never have problems. Don't know why Mercedes chose steel lines which rusts.

Tip: With cigar hose crimped and still connected to metal fuel line, place pan under metal line under the car, then undo hose clamp under the car, then remove hose from metal line. It will just trickle out instead of gush out. Now undo the hose clamp on the cigar hose to drain the line.
funola, what nylon fuel line are you using, where did you get it? If I was to do both fuel and return line, I guess I'm going to need 20 feet or so? Do you still have some left that you can sell me? In the picture facing toward the front, which is the fuel line and which is the return line? I think I'm going to keep the metal lines under the hood and just us a 5/16" rubber fuel hose to connect the replacement vinyl line so I don't want to mess with connecting the vinyl directly.

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Replacing fuel supply line on a 300D-p1020468.jpg  
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Last edited by edge; 01-04-2015 at 01:50 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2015, 05:18 PM
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I bought the nylon lines from funola and it works very well. He also includes the necessary metal sleeves to keep the nylon ends from collapsing. I was dreading this job but I finally got a chance to install your nylon fuel lines with the warm weather. It was easier than I though it would be. I put the rear wheels up on a ramp and didn't have to drop the subframe. I doubled up the the long nylon line and zip tied everything up. I first attached the return line and then the supply line which filled the nylon line with diesel so the lines were primed and ready to go. I then spliced the midpoint under the hood, attaching the return line first and then the supply line. It leaked somewhat and I got underneath and tightened the clamps again. I have some foamy air (looks like beer) in the return line but she's running well. Thanks, Steve/funola.
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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2015, 09:15 AM
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Good you finally got the nylon lines installed. It will run even better if you find and fix whatever air leaks you have. With a tight system, you should not see air bubbles/foamy fuel at any time in the clear nylon return to tank line. "Anytime" includes after it is shut off for days/ weeks.
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2015, 09:48 AM
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I had a fuel line leak some years back. I decided to get a local (non-MB) shop to repair it. They spliced in a new section from just behind engine to near rear axle. Not sure, but I think it is rubber from there on back (from previous repair).

When I did a rust restoration job on my 300D (documented elsewhere), one thing I did, is remove the clamps that hold the fuel and brake lines to underside of body and painted tubing and clamps with a POR15 type paint after degreasing as best I could. The clamps trap salt, dirt and moisture. Simple and worthwhile preventative maintenance for these cars. (While under there, I also painted everything else I could!)
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2015, 11:57 PM
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I just replaced my fuel AND brake lines back in December on my 300D (corroded over the rear suspension cradle)....what a miserable job that was to do.
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2019, 10:49 PM
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Funola, I used your plastic line technique in my 300CD. I did both the feed line and the return line. Not sure if the exact dimensions were presented in previous posts, but I used 5/16” OD, 3/16" ID clear vinyl hose from Home Depot (20’). Two 20' hose coils from Home Depot were under $10. Thanks for all your advice on this. It helped!!!


Also the feed line was about 12' and the return line is a little shorter, so one 20' coil of the vinyl hose would not have been enough.

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