My '85 300D has a fuel leak in front of the driver's side rear wheel. From searching here, I know there are three rubber fuel lines in this area; a return line, a vent line and the supply line. I have read that the supply line has a fitting on the end that screws into the tank at the strainer. My question is: Can I cut the old hose off this fitting and replace with standard size fuel hose or do I need to buy the hose with this fitting crimped on (from the dealer or Fastlane)?

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'85 300D 276,000 mi

Buy the hose with the fitting. You will be happier. Your rigging of the setup might leak.


http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1JW1BNMKB1JX1BVLI5&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=E&part=Fitted+Fuel+Hose

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

If it's leaking from in front of the rear wheel, then you've likely got a rusted through steel fuel line and not necessarily a bad rubber hose. If that's the case, some of us have fixed that by cutting out the bad section and replacing it with a rubber fuel line and a couple of clamps. If you want to do it right, then the whole line needs to be replaced. In either case you will likely have to lower the trailing arm on that side to get access to the fuel line.

Len

Len,

You nailed it on the head. The return line had a pinhole leak that was a result of corrosion under one of the rubber hold-downs. I used a dremel with an abrasive cut-off wheel to cut through the line at the leak point. (I couldn't think of any other way to cut through the line quickly while the fuel was dripping out. This was dangerous due to the heat and sparks that develop! The right way of doing this is to drain the tank.) I patched it as you described with a short section of 5/16" fuel line and two hose clamps.

Then the SECOND leak developed. The supply line cracked up under the trailing arm from the movement of the first repair. To repair this second line, I ran a long (3 1/2 ft) section of fuel line above the trailing arm and patched into the steel line on either side. At this point, I was lying in a puddle of diesel fuel. What a complete mess!

I don't feel good about the condition of this repair. There are still steel fuel lines and the brake line in the area that are corroded. I eventually need to repair this correctly by dropping the trailing arm and replacing all these steel lines as Len suggested. My dilema right now is to decide how quickly I address it.

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'85 300D 276,000 mi

Dave,

The only reason I was asking about cutting the old hose off the fitting and clamping a new hose on was expediency. I wanted to repair this leak last night. (I have since found some posts here where people have indeed done the cut and replace repair.) If I had the time, I would buy the proper "fitted" hose ahead of time. As it is, I may end up replacing all the steel lines (brake and fuel) along with new rubber hoses. I will likely pull the strainer while I'm at it to clean it.

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'85 300D 276,000 mi

I replaced the fuel line by cutting off the crimped steel ferrule and replacing the fuel hose with new fuel hose, secured with worm drive clamps. I would expect just as much problem with it as I have from my other new fuel lines - NONE. I check them at every 5000km service and replace any which show signs of deterioration.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

My W123 has a rubber line connected to the strainer assy via hose clamp as yours does.

My W116 has a factory style crimped hose.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I would be most concerned with the brake line if your fuel lines are in that condition...when you need the rear brakes...that line might be in jeopardy....and the top side of the sub frame between the floor pan is a moisture trap that rotts out the lines after all of these years...

removing the rear sub frame is not hard work, it takes two people and a jig to make it easy...and a good weekend of time....

the dealership can sell you the lines you need 80% pre bent at a great price...

good luck - be safe
Jake

I'm not looking forward to this repair. I did the same rubber fuel substitution repair a few years ago toward the front where the bell valve is. Now I have to get underneath the rear wheel to cut and install a rubber fuel hose. Any idea how much it would cost an indy to do this repair anyone? I've been putting this off for a few months but this Sunday it suppose to be 60 degrees out on Jan 3 so I have to take advantage of this opening or pay someone to do it.

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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

I would not use a hose under the car, not suitable for the environment. I did one in less than 1.5 hours replacing the entire line with Nylon. See #20 & 22 Air bubbles in fuel

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

aww comeon you wimps! lift the vehicle securely, drop the subframe, and install some fresh steel lines!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Do you have to drop the subframe to change out the line? Funola, what does i.d. stand for in:3 ft x 1/4" i.d. vinyl hose (Home Depot)? How di you manage to do it all in 1 1/5 hrs without being drenched in diesel? Please elaborate, thanks and Happy New Year..

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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

well, draining the tank first is important for sure... when the tank is drained, if you are only changing the lines, not the tank screen, no fuel will spill if you get it all out through the fuel pump/supply line first!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

i.d. = inner diameter

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1991 300D

i.d. is inside diameter. Don't go and buy that vinyl hose from home Depot, that was just a suggestion so he can make a connection to the tank breather under the car so he can blow into it to test if it was clogged.

I did not drain the tank. I crimped both the rubber supply hose at the tank and the cigar hose with a vise grip before undoing the hose clamps to drain the metal fuel line (into a pan). Have plenty of rags handy. If you can work methodically you can do it without spilling a drop on yourself or the ground. Lay cardboard down and use a small pan. Loosely snake the nylon line under the car starting from the engine bay and hose clamp it to the cigar hose, zip tie the nylon line to the metal fuel line (which you leave in place) till you reach the rubber hose at the tank, cut the nylon line to length then hose clamp it to the tank rubber line. Undo the vise grips and prime the system and you're done. The key is the nylon line which is tough and stiff (won't sag like rubber) but flexible enough to be easily routed and zip tied to the existing metal lines. I've been using it for under the car fuel lines for 8 years now with no issues. The stuff I have is water clear and does not yellow with age so you can see what's in it easily. I still have a small supply left if you want to buy some. VW's use nylon fuel lines under the car which never have problems. Don't know why Mercedes chose steel lines which rusts.

Tip: With cigar hose crimped and still connected to metal fuel line, place pan under metal line under the car, then undo hose clamp under the car, then remove hose from metal line. It will just trickle out instead of gush out. Now undo the hose clamp on the cigar hose to drain the line.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked