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  #1  
Old 06-28-2005, 05:46 PM
iNeon's Avatar
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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crazy temperature gauge and its taiwanese wal*mart replacement

where should i run the sensor through the firewall? it says it needs a 7/8(22mm) hole and i cant seem to find any that arent occupied.

i think i might just install it and screw it to something in the engine compartment to test the dash gauge, i really dont want an ugle 10 dollar gauge in the car permanantly.

im waiting for the car to cool off now before i install it.

what do youall think?
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2005, 05:53 PM
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What did you do...........buy a mechanical temperature gauge???

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  #3  
Old 06-28-2005, 06:07 PM
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i think, i am just tired of wondering if the gauge is right, lately it has been registering very high and if you smack it, it goes to the correct "half-full" range.

otherwise, when on the highway, it climbs to 7/8 tank and worries me!

it was 10 bux at wal mart and the cable is filled with ether, apparently cuz it says no hot things close by and no sharp objects either.

i thought about mounting it in the glove box, i can hndle 2 residual screw holes on the top of the glove box liner, i just dont want them on the interior or a pillars or console or blah blah blah
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2005, 06:55 PM
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obviously, the sender doesnt fit.

i dont know why i thought that a mercedes-benz would be included in "most imports"

i dropped the factory sender between the engine block and injection pump and dont think ill be able to retrieve it, its way down there from whence itll never be recovered

so, heres the gauge story to see if youall can help me:

the gauge reads normal in town usually, if i start the car and idle it with the a/c on it rarely moves above where it is supposed to be(about half way) but when on the freeway or when traveling above about 50mph, it goes up to 3/4 and sometimes higher if i am going over 70.

the weirdness is that the gauge "twitches" and if i turn on the heater, it drops 30 degrees or so VERY quickly(about 5 seconds) sometimes on the highway the gauge is normal, mostly not(10% normal, 90 not) and like i said earlier, hitting it makes it move very quickly either up or down.

the gauge has yet to reach the red, but this morning when i returned to the car from wal*mart, the gauge was as close to the red mark as i have ever seen(a needles width away)

i cant afford to buy a new engine and i have driven 6 months with the gauge this way thinking it was normal because the owners manual is very abstract in saying what correct temperature range is( it says its ok to "overheat" it as long as it isnt prolonged) but that isnt good enough for me.

sorry its so long, i just want this damned thing to work like a normal car, im kind of tired of petting it and tickling its balls so itll treat me right.
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2005, 07:28 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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what vehicle?

i am guessing a 115 body. they are notorious for having ground issues. the result is erratic instruments all except the oil pressure which is mechanical. find your ground and clean it or add an auxiliary ground and i bet your problem will be solved.
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2005, 07:34 PM
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the car is a 1979 240d, it is a w123 body car.

the gauge isnt the problem right now, i cannot retrieve the sending unit from between the IP and the engine block, so the block has a giant gaping hole that spewed coolant allover the driveway till it ran out. i know i cannot run it this way

i have no money t ut fuel in the gasser, so i have to fix it before dark!

i dont suppose removing the IP would be advisable, eh?
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2005, 07:36 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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dont despair

you will get it out. the ground thing is still probably the issue...imho
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2005, 07:45 PM
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Instead of trying to retrieve it from the top try pushing it out from the top onto the floor.
There should be enough room between the IP and engine to push it through, No??
I can't begin to tell you how many things I dropped down there.

Danny
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2005, 08:00 PM
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do you know where the ground point for the instrument cluster is on a w123?

i dont think i can push it through, the hard lines for the fuel injectors are in the way, i can barely get my hand in there and to compound it, there is some sharp edge right on the vein in my wrist and that worries me!

sure im a pussy, but maybe i have a right to be concerned about sharp metallic objects jutting into veins whenever im not insured

i cant even afford to gas up my other car to use for school. all i need is 5000 dollar stitches.

i guess ill go look for the retrieval magnet again to see if it is magnetic metal.
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  #10  
Old 06-28-2005, 08:43 PM
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i finally got it

but now the temperature is only a hair above the 100 degrees(farenheit, dont get mad at me, now=P) mark which is the very beginning of the gauge.

one more question and i think im done with this fiasco!

what are the two different temperature senders for? my car has two identical senders(externally, at least) but one has a longer "probe"

did i switch them? is that why my gauge is reading so differently now?
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  #11  
Old 06-28-2005, 08:48 PM
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I think one was for the glow timer but thats just a guess, I've wondered that myself.
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1983 300TD
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1984 500SEC
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1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
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past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #12  
Old 06-28-2005, 09:43 PM
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Twitch

ineon - Just a thought on the twitch in your temp gauge. My 190D has exhibited similar symptoms on occasion. The occasion typically being when I have drained coolant for one reason or another. What appears to be the cause is air in the system; get the air worked out and all is well, no more twitch in the gauge and more consistant readings.

Best of luck, Jim
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2005, 10:16 PM
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Another grounding point to check.

A fluctuating temp. guage on mine was caused by the chassis-engine grounding strap. The bracket on the engine, where it was attached, had worked its way loose. Pulled the bolt, dabbed threadlocker on it, and reinstalled it with no more guage problems. (Also, no more intermittent starting problems.)
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  #14  
Old 06-29-2005, 12:37 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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grounds

can cause all kinds of devious problems. and they are not usually what one thinks of first. we all tend to jump at things that are more .... concrete?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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