Today, I dropped by my old high school and when I returned to the car 5 minutes later, nothing worked! The car started fine and ran fine but as I was driving away I noticed that none of the guages were working! They were all acting as if the car was still off. The power windows worked as well as the sunroof. I guess the only things that stopped working was the ACC and the instrument clusters. I also think that the odometer isn't counting up anymore. What could have caused this in 5 minutes? I've had no previous warning about anything like this.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Of course you already checked the fuses, right?

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'90 300SE 298k
-300K and it gets put into retirement.
'80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980.

Had a:
1973 220 (gas)
1980 300SD
1992 400E

Yes, I did. Sorry I forgot to mention that.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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My mom was out with the car earlier but she is now back. The ACC blows air but the compressor won't come on. I removed the OVP and checked the fuse on it and it's good. This is really frustrating to me. At first I thought it may be something with the key switch but the key was in the right spot and no jiggling of it will produce electricity.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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I am going to bet it's the ignition switch - that's exactly what the sd started doing before it went south.

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

I replaced the ignition switch about 3 months ago though. I replaced the electrical part since the key wasn't fully retracting to the run position. It used to do something similar to this when that part failed but it never affected the instrument cluster? Also, my blower works, it didn't when the ignition switch failed plus I ould bump the key back a notch and get it all to work. This just happened and no matter where I move the key to nothing happens.

I noticed something today and I don't know if it's always done this, but if the car is running and I open the door the buzzer sounds. I don't think it used to do that. I don't know if it's related or not.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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I just went out to double check the fuses and they're definitely good. I also made sure that other components sharing the same fuses worked, and they did. Anyways, I noticed something else; that is, that the only warning lights that come on are the:antilock, glow plug, ABS, and alternator. I don't see how the cluster could go bad since each individual guage has a connector of its own that doesn't even attach to the cluster at all, so all the guages are really on their own circuit. What gives?

I did a search and someone posted a similar problem with a 190E but they never posted what fixed it. The thread was from 2000 and it listed all the posters as guest so I can't just contact the guy. I guess I'll try and post in tech help as well since this doesn't seem to be a diesel specific problem.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Did you check the ground for the dash? This is one item that is common for most lights.

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1977 300D Lost coolant while someone else was driving
1983 300D Can't run without oil
1985 300SD (gone but not forgotten)
1990 300TE 4matic Sold
1991 Yamaha Venture
1975 Kawsaki 250 triple
1974 Honda 200CL
1951 8N Ford
2008 Wildfire 650C

No I did not. I posted in tech help and I believe my problem is in fact the OVP relay. I removed it and there is something rattling inside of it. I was going to resolder it but I can't get the aluminum housing off and I've pretty much destroyed it in the process. I guess I'll just go to the junkyard tomorrow and pull one. Man, I was just there today.

I'm hoping my mom will be back soon with the 300E so I can try that OVP to see if that fixes my problem.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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MB-owner, I know this is off-topic but I found the driver's MB mat and a RF door gasket. The one on that door isn't leaking but I bought both gaskets as a set so I have this other one. You're welcome to it if you'd like. I'll try to remember to get ahold of my buddy to make sure he still has the underdash piece.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Dave,

I would occassionally have this happen. Or when I hit the brakes all the guages would go to 0. I pulled out, cleaned the posts, and reseated all the relays in the fuse box. This seemed to help. Others also suspected a failing OVP at the time. There is another relay near the firewall that has a fuse built in the top. Check to see that fuse is tight in the holder. Basically age and potential corrosion can be lots of places.

Chuck

I resoldered the OVP relay and the kilma for the heck of it just to be sure and it didn't fix the problem. I would think that if this was as simple as a bad solder joint it would be an intermittent problem and would show warning signs. Thing is though, the car was behaving normally, this happened out of the blue. I noticed tonight while driving that I don't have any of by brake lights! This could get dangerous pretty quick. I'll try the relay trick you told me about and see if that helps. The more I'm in the car the more I'm discovering other items that are inoperable! The guages are the least of the problems from this, I need brake lights before a fuel level guage or speedometer. I've driven without a speedometer and you don't really notice, but these other things are really making me mad. Plus, I wanted to go to the G2G this Saturday but not without brake lights or instruments!

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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It looks like fuses 5, 6, 7 and 8 are dead. Check for power on the common side of the fuse holders with the key in the run position. I guess first you remove the fuses and see which ends have continuity with each other then check for power on those ends. I suspect you'll get nothing. If so then it's a bad switch or a bad wire between the switch and the fuse box. If the glow system and charge warning light are working then it must be a problem with the bus strip in the fuse box.

The buzzer sounds if you open the driver door with the key in the switch.

It's such a PITA that page 105/2 of the ETM is upside-down!

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

What switch are you referring to as being bad? Is a bus fuse a regular fuse like the strip ones or is it a relay?

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Whatever is the equivalent of an ignition switch in a Diesel

I apologize if my response was confusing. I didn't mean a bus fuse, I meant a bus strip. I hope I'm using the right terms. I don't know what's inside the fuse box (besides fuses) so I don't know how fuses 5, 6, 7 and 8 link up to the wire from the key switch. I'm guessing there's a bus strip. I've never heard of a bus strip breaking but maybe it's grounding on something.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL