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#16
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Something else you can try is to hit the starter with a hammer several times prior to attempting to start it. This may get it working again. I also suggested that you push start the car if possible.
Phil
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it] |
#17
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to add to that, hit the solenoid with the hammer when trying to crank it- if its hanging up that might jar it loose and get it to fire
__________________
1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#18
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Johnhef, pberku, dannym, leathermang, Jimmyl etc,
Just tried it with the new battery. Same result. Nothing, when using the key. Then, I bypassed the ignition (but turned the key to the second spot to warm up the glowplugs)by using a direct line from the + lead to the purple wire on the fenderwall box. Nothing, except there is a clicking sound from the glow-plug relay box on the driverside inner fenderwell each time I touch the purple wire. So, next I'll try the hammer trick on the starter and solenoid. Tomorrow, I'll get a voltage meter as suggested. The 2 days of steady rain has finally ended. Maybe a good omen... Are there any easy ways to R & R the starter/solenoid?? SteveKaa ------------------------------------------------- 1982 300SD 348k miles |
#19
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I wouldn't think you need to remove the manifold... I have not had to pull a starter from a 300SD, BUT I have removed many off that engine in a 123 body as well as 126 body V8's just never in the SD combination. On the 126, remove the crossmember held in by 3 (17mm?) bolts on each side. Then when you have the starter loose, try turning the steering untill you get a large enough hole for it to drop out from the bottom.
good luck
__________________
1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#20
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Find a large pipe and bang the solenoid a couple times. WOrked for me till I replaced the starter in my old SD.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#21
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JohnHef,
Thanks for your idea . I looked at the Mercedes 126 disc last nite, and it said to turn the steering to remove the starter. Now I see what it's about. As I remember from my painful hours of staring up at it from underneath last summer, it was the crossmember that prevented the starter from dropping down. That's why I took the exhaust downpipe off, to get at it from the top. NOW it's beginning to make sense! I recall thinking that messing with the crossmember might make matters worse for me. You know, two steps forward, one step back... Thanks. SteveKaa ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1982 300SD 348k miles |
#22
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If your battery is 5 years old I would suspect it is dead. Up hear in New England 5 years is pushing it for a battery.
But if you hear a click when you turn the key I would suspect your starter, but since it is cheap and fast I would test the battery first. Since your starter is a year old I would suspect it more, reman starters fail.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#23
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skaa,
Take a screwdriver or wrench and short from the input to the solonoid, (where cable from battery is connected) to the terminal on the starter. This eliminates all other connections and compponents in the starter circuit. The starter should spin but may not connect to the ring gear. Make sure shift lever is in park when you do this. If the starter doesn't spin, the starter is bad. If the starter does spin, then it might be the solonoid that is not working. To test solonoid, connect a wire from the + terminal on the battery to the screw on the solonoid that has the small wire going to it. The starter should engage and crank the engine. If it doesn't. I would suspect the solonoid. P E H |
#24
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PEH,
Thanks for the simple and practical explanation. I'll do both tests first thing in the morning. SteveKaa ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1982 300SD 348k miles |
#25
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Extremely unlikely but check your coolant level as well. A cracked head, or a leaking head gasket could allow coolant to leak into a cylinder, and as coolant is NOT compressible, this will prevent the starter from turning the engine over.
A I said, extremely unlikely, but takes only seconds to check the coolant level. Phil
__________________
'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it] |
#26
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Something that bit me....
Check your grounds. Especially the chassis-engine grounding strap. On my SD the exhaust bracket the strap was attached to was loose and gave me very intermittent problems. (Changed 2 starters )
To pull the starter, if I recall, crank the steering wheel all the way to the left and it will allow you to pass in front of the tie rods. It gives you a little more room to work also.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#27
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skaa,
Some other thoughts: You might get some sparks, especially if you touch a metal ground when jumping the solonoid input terminal to the starter terminal. Don't worry, they won't hurt anything and then you know you are getting current to the solonoid terminal. In fact, ground the solonoid terminal quickly. You should get a good zap that you can see and hear. Then you will know your have low resistance to the solonoid terminal and ground so the connections to the battery are OK. If you don't get much of a response when shorting the solonid terminals, turn on the headlights. If they don't dim, starter not working. If they go almost out, the battery is dead or there is a bad connection from the battery in the wires to the solonoid or the wires to the frame. P E H |
#28
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skaa, I live outside boston, about 20 miles, if I can help please let me know, steve 83sd
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#29
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Thanks to everyone for your offers of advice and help. It started! After working thru all the tests of circuits and checking for sparks, (which were very healthy with the new battery), the only thing left was just to whack the starter/solenoid with a hammer and a stick. After about 10 whacks on both, I tried the ignition switch again, and it started!
I'm going to take the advice of several who said to just do what I need to with a hammer, and drive it all the way back home to SoCal and exchange it for newer one. Steve Lewis and RWThomas1- thanks for your offer of help. It's a good feeling knowing this Forum has stand-up people... Again, THANKS to everyone for your help!! SteveKaa --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1982 300SD 348k miles |
#30
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Try to park that car on a good long fairly steep hill everytime you shut your engine down when possible on your way home. Better than that try to see if the warranty on that starter is nationwide and change it before leaving. Someone in california should be able to fax the reciept if the starter is not coded. Phone the rebuild company. Just aids the peace of mind thing a little. Plus getting it changed out on the road if it came to that can be costly as well in time as well as money.
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