After an uneventful 3,300 mile cross-country trip from SoCal to Boston, as I near my return departure date, suddenly my '82 300SD won't start. I had it towed from the shopping center where it died to where I can work on it over the weekend at a friend's house. It has full battery power, lights and such are OK, but when I turn the key to the final position, nothing happens. Lately,(the past few weeks) when I tried to start it, there would be a clicking sound, then nothing. I'd recycle the glowplugs, and after a few tries(and clicks), about the 3rd try it would start up fine. After several recent Forum searches, I suspect the ignition switch innards, as the starter/solenoid is less than 1 year old, and is a Bosch reman with lifetime warranty(whatever that means). The battery is just over 5 years old, with SoCal winters, only. Perhaps it should be replaced first? I need help with 2 things:
1. To see if it is the ignition switch that has failed, I want to bypass it and hot-wire the starter. What are the two wires I connect in the fenderwell black box? I know the purple one is involved. Can anyone tell me the precise two wires to touch? My Forum searches only reveal vague, or "I forget exactly which ones..." answers.
2. If, in the end, I must remove the starter/solenoid, is their a way to do it without removing the exhaust header on my 300SD? The CD says to drop it, but steering components get in the way.
Thanks in advance,
SteveKaa
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1982 300SD 348k miles

clicking indicates its probably your starter but i would take the battery to autozone and have it tested... a week battery can make your starter click..

touch a jumper from the positive battery post to the purple wire at the junction bod on the passenger fender area, there are other hot wires you can use, just to simplify it use the battery terminal

BlueRanger,
Thanks. I had the entire charging system tested last summer when I replaced the starter/solenoid (see my posts from last August), and everything was fine. I thought batteries got weaker as you tried to start, or cycle the glowplugs, over and over. I figure I need a battery anyway, even though it is an 84 month one. I've ordered and received (27 hrs!) an ignition switch from Phil at FastLane which I'll put in this weekend. I just want to make sure I cover all the diagnostic bases and think it thru before I start pulling parts in the driveway...

SteveKaa

Carson356,
It's that simple? That will totally bypass the key switch? I noticed there were 2 or 3 purple wires that meet in the box, and some go to the alternator. I won't fry anything will I?? I hope it's that easy. Thanks,
SteveKaa

i was an electrician for many years and i have a philosophy...

on many electrical problems i have seen guys jump in to the most difficulty and the problem would be that the switch was off...

so i recommend that you start with the easiest first...
1. have battery tested... last year is a long time ago...
2. Its probably your battery but if not jump a hot wire to the starter and see what happens...this will bypass the switch and it should turn over.

3. (its probably your starter)

4. ignation swith check

i do not believe it is your ignation switch because you are hereing a clicking noise....which indicates a starter trying to engage... the bendix is not totally poping out... which could mean a bad starter or dead battery... you could have lost an alternater... which lead to a drain on the battery... now in the heat the battery is only producing 9 or 11 volts which will not fire your starter properly....

that will only by pass the crank portion of the ignition switch, you will only have to connect the wire for starting only, this will work only if the lights come on when the key is in position 2

skaa,

Come on, you're in a bind. Get the noggin workin'. Just because a part was changed a year ago does not mean that it is still good.

Does your friend have a digital volt meter? You can get one for $20 at Sears. In fact, since you are stranded, a starter/alternator shop could diagnose your problem for probably that amount or even free if you buy the necessary part from them.

You need to do a voltage drop test. Put one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the large nut on the starter motor below the solenoid. Have someone turn the switch to start. If the voltage is larger than .5 Volts then leave one lead on the battery post and keep moving the other lead back up the circuit until you have less than .5 Volts. The point between these two test points is your problem. Likely the solenoid, but you don't know until you check.

Don't overlook the condition of your battery cables.

We will be here if you need us.

Best of luck,

Your battery is "just over 5 years old"?
Always have the battery tested first. It is free and usually the most likely suspect. Then move on to the more in depth stuff.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

The battery is first to check.. but then the connections from it should be taken off and cleaned and reattached... corrosion can build up .... sometimes even inside battery cables under the rubber... I have split some and found five inches of green powder instead of copper....
I got my digital volt meter for $8 from O'Rieleys... they are so much better for some things than the old VOM's...
They have protection circuits in them... for people like me who tended to fry the old style...

Solution = 30 mph push start....leave it running...drive home...fix it there

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

If I remember correctly, your car can be push started. You can than at least get it to a Garage of your choice.

Phil

__________________
'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Hmmmm, now why is he so persistant in finding out how to hotwire the car when it's almost definitely his battery or starter???

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

Hey,
is the shift lever in park?
Ok so I gave it shot.

AutoZone will check your battery and alternator for free. actualy most any auto stores will do it for you nowadays. You don't have to buy anything from them.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

83mercedes, Leathermang, Larry bible, etc,
Thanks for all the responses. I just got in from buying a new battery, and the other ignition parts arrived UPS today. Both of my battery cables were replaced last month, and the grounding nuts and bolts. I'm naturally hoping it isn't the starter/solenoid, as it is a Bosch reman less than one year old, and the last time I R & R'd it last summer, it was a nightmare to do, even with access to a frame lift (which I don't have here). Is there an easier way to R & R the starter on a 300SD other than taking off the exhaust header first?? . Another Forum member happens to live in the town here where I broke down, and has offered not only his tools(if I need anything), but his advice and moral support(probably the most important at this point) as I work thru all this.

I have electrical power to the car accessories with the ignition key at the 2nd spot, but turning it further does nothing.

I'm going outside to check all the connections to the starter and such and see if the new battery makes any difference. Thanks to everyone , so far.

SteveKaa
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1982 300SD 348k miles