I've have searched until my eyes glazed over and didn't find any useful info on this. I want to lower the front of my w123 wagon a little and it seems like the right path is to install a thinner coil spring pad/spacer. I have the following questions:

--Did 123 wagons all come with the same factory spacer? If so, which one is it.

--How much actual lowering does each thinner spacer provide?

--Do I need to get the suspension re-aligned after changing spacers? (I'm thinking not since you are basically lowering the body over the suspension, not changing any suspension geometry.)

Thanks in advance for any answers you can provide!

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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

I thought we discussed some of this on another thread??

I don't have the W123 manuals with me today, but IIRC, there are four spacers available for the front of the W123. They are identified by little rubber tits that are on the outside of the spacer. The higher number (4) is the thickest spacer, IIRC.

I'm not sure what is stock on the wagon. Maybe someone who has one will know.

The difference in the spacer thicknesses will be magnified by the suspension geometry. I would estimate that you will get twice as much lowering as the difference between spacer thicknesses.

If you lower the body, the camber will become more negative. You will need to check it after you install the spacers. You can check it yourself to see if it is close to specs or whether the lower control arm needs to move inward a bit to compensate.

Thanks for the reply. This helps. The subject has been "discussed" many times, but usually without any hard info. Have any other 123 owners actually replaced their spring pads as a means of lowering, and what were the results?

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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

Yes, I suppose that I also fall into the group without hard info.

I'm made quite a project on the back end of the SDL of late. Couldn't get a thicker spacer, so I had new springs made that were 5/8" taller than stock. This increased the back end by 2.25" at the wheel wells, for reasons that I can't quite fathom, and now I too need thinner spacers for it.

But, there are two sizes below the current 19mm so, fortunately, I've got some options.

You might find, like I did on the SDL, that the front's are currently using the thinnest spacer available. Then, you need to cut the spring by 1/2 coil or so, to lower the front end. If it drops too much, you can add one of the thicker spacers..................sounds all to familiar (in reverse).

I did just that on my 123 coupe a while back. As far as model specific spacers, there weren't any. I have looked at tons of sedans, coupes and wagons and there is no continuity between which spacer was on which model.

If you click the link for the 82 coupe below you'll see my car, I went from #4 (thickest) to #1's (thinnest) and removed one coil from the springs as well. I left the rear of the car alone. Before I did all this though, I replaced the lower control arm bushings and track rod bushings, otherwise the car would have never been able to be aligned within spec.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

i'm not sure if this will apply to you since i have a 124, but i guess it will somehow.

anyway, i went form 3 bump spacers to 1 bumps, the car was significantly lowered in my case, about an inch measuring from the tire to the fender lip. The camber at the rear leaned inwards also, and since 124s don't have rear camber adustment they had to compensate the toe for an even tire wear, it only made things worse so i had them reset the toe.

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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

I also did them on my 124. went from 4 to 1 in the front and 3 to 1 in the rear. I was a little dissapointed with it though. Maybe an inch or less that it took out. There are some rear upper arms on your 124 that might be bad, I had posted awhile back with before and after pics of ones I did on a 300E.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Thanks for the feedback. We're getting warmer now!

So I guess I start by finding out how many "bumps" are on my spacers, then go from there. I don't need to drop the car much, and I only need to drop the rear, so my job will be simpler than some of yours.

Here's a photo to show you what I'm dealing with. If I just lower the front a little, even a half inch, I think I'll be happy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37215883@N00/21566855/in/set-163037/

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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

John,

Pulling apart my 123 frontend this week - found out that on my '84 300D Turbo that it came from factory with thinnest front spring pads (8mm), yet after 198k miles on stock suspension, it has 3" of clearance between top of tire (stock Bundt 14's) & fender lip...

Installing Bello 16" wheels & 205/55-16 tires - see pic -

http://groups.msn.com/1971Datsun510pics/shoebox.msnw?Page=3

Looks like spring surgery time?

BNC

My 82 wagon had the thick spring pads and rode like a bus, especially bad on the intrastate two lanes. My 80 wagon (now sold) on the other hand was on rails compared to the 82. I went to the junkyard, found a non turbo wagon and had the spring changed out by my indie. He said the pads were the thinnest on the non turbo. Now the 82's handling is a million times better and is perhaps 2 1/2 inches lower than it was before.

Hey MTU,

Unfortunately, the side shot of my car shows the height WITH the stock '84 Turbo front springs & THINNEST pads (8mm) as it arrived from the factory -
grumble, grumble, grumble...

The varied spring heights installed on 123's with the varied spring pad thicknesses obviously was based on what options were on the car; e.g., sunroof, 240 vs. 300 vs 300T, etc -

Just want to control the wandering & lower the *#&$@% nose of the car a bit!

bnc

Cutting the springs has yielded mixed results for folks. Non turbo wagon springs put in a turbo wagon worked better than I ever thought it would. The front end was wandering all over the road. Just one case however. Now that I bought another wagon (today!!!) I'll have another example for testing soon. (1984, one owner, 147K, zero rust, great paint, two tiny door dings, no dash cracks, working a/c, door locks, windows, cruise, cross bars; poor deck carpet in rear (but soon to be changed to a third seat anyways), needs new tires and hatch struts. I'm happy as a clam. Now I need to sell a gasser.)

Wonder how u folks take the spring apart? Do u need spring compressor? Are they external clamps ( 2 clamps) or internal clamps?

One manual says you need to undo the upper shock nut and lowered the shock and lower suspension to remove the shock.
At present I need to put one spring into the right side. My Left spring is not looking all super hot either. Inorder to drive my car I need the Left spring install first.
Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Mines is a 78 W 123, 240d, 4spd.

Also when u cut the coil, do you grind the end to make it look tapered off?

I am referring to front spring.