Hello everyone. I've been visiting your forum for quite a few months while eagerly anticipating a 300SD to come up for sale, my dream car. Well, finally last weekend I picked up my "Big Body Benz". I know she's SWB but still. My "buttercup" is a 1981 and had 180,XXX miles on her at the time of purchase. I purchased her from the 2nd owner, who only had her for 5 years. She has that wonderful Ivory/yellow exterior color and the "saddle?" interior. With the exception of a few cosmetic issues, (i.e. a bit of surface rust from Chicago winters, and the seats have a some wear and tear) my baby is in great condidtion. I did have a few questions, but searching the forum has answered many of them.

I've made adjustment to the rack damper pin to smooth out the idle shake. I figured out why I had such a rough time at startup, just give the glow plugs a little more time after the light goes out, no more smoke, no more shaking. She had an Italian tune-up yesterday and that helped with the idle speed, and silenced a knock coming form #1. Now my inquiries. I found a post regarding leaky injectors, but I not sure if I understood the procedure for correcting the problem. It looks and smells like fuel, I don't have any oil leaks. And with the 617's, I have the metal tubes as oppossed to rubber. It doesn't seem too serious, but I could be wrong. I see a puddle underneath when its parked, but it doesn't seem to affect my fuel gauge. There is also a whine from the blower motor when I turn on the climate control. Hmmm. I love my new baby, and I'm never going to sell her. She's the second member of my Benz family, there will be more, I also want a 420SEL. Any help would be great. Many Thanx. Oh yeah, how do you post photos?

Welcome to the board...

I think you may have mixed up the fuel line descriptions .... the ones that leak on the 616 and 617 every two years... are the little fuel bypass hoses which go from one injector to the next on top...
All the actual injection lines on our engines from the IP to the injectors are steel.
You need to wash your engine compartment... this is the only way you can locate most leaks.. a search will provide info on that... be sure not to spray water on the IP...
The blower motor may need bearings... they are not too hard to install and someone said they only cost about $5...

I'm new to the diesel world, so I wouldn't be surprised I may have some things mixed up. Newbie mistakes. I didn't really even thinking about cleaning the engine bay. From first sight, I just went out and looked, it looks like it's coming from where the injectors connect to the engine? I'm at work right, but as soon as I leave here, I'll go do that. Is it ok to use the engine cleaner used for gas engines?

Don't clean your engine with it hot....
it is best to put the Gunk type cleaner on it with it warm and leave it overnight... then spray it off the next morning... avoiding the alternator and IP...
When those rubber bypass hoses leak it makes it look like the injectors are leaking... get REAL MB hose for that.. very cheap... a five minute job... take them off one at a time and cut the new section the same length, stick it on.. does not use a clamp...
That should fix it... much easier than the actual injectors leaking... but usually that is one at a time... your description makes it sound like the rubber hoses...

I sprayed my IP

In fact I sprayed everything including the alternator

I figured it's an open compartment it's got to be able to take a little water. That was a long time ago so nothing went wrong but, Why would you not want to spray the IP?

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination