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  #16  
Old 07-13-2005, 02:15 AM
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You don't need to use ramps, just slide a pan under there and catch the oil. Now since this is your first time at this, do you know how much oil you are going to need? You engine takes 2 GALLONS of oil. 8 quarts is the oil capacity for the engine in you car. So I hope that you are not using a standrd oil pan, because the oil will be flowing up and over and onto the ground.
For gloves, I just use diposable latex gloves.

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  #17  
Old 07-13-2005, 11:16 PM
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Hey I used the ramps but I will return them in the AM...When I saw the location of the pan and plug I see I won't need to ramp it at all. Very cool!!!!
Anywy mission accomplished....with Rotella dino. The manual says 8.5 quarts, so I will check it in the AM cold for level...
btw I used a puiirolator filter cause that was what was available and I needed to do it right away...It came with 3 washers and the band. Of the 3 washers 1 was big and 2 smaller. I used 1 small on the drain plug the band on the filter housing, but 2 washers left over....Did I miss something????
Next change at 291,000
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2005, 11:50 PM
ES022 D'NAB
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Coastal is great for door hinges. Please consider using anything else.
Even Quaker State is better.
Wally world sells Shell Rotella in gallons. It is diesel rated.My pop swears by it. His 1984 300CD has close to 400,000 miles on it so he might be on to something.

good luck
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2005, 12:19 PM
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Delano,

12 hours is usually convenient for me because it seems I always end up at a motel when its time the change the oil and filter. I try to change it regularly so when the odometer gets to a multiple of 10,000 miles, I change oil and filter where ever I am. I have changed the oil in about 10 different states from FL to WA and Canada.

I remove the drain plug and loosen the oil cooler line in the evening and let it drain overnight. Then I replace the filter and oil in the morning when everything is cool. It works for me.

P E H
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2005, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
...it seems I always end up at a motel when its time the change the oil and filter... ...I remove the drain plug and loosen the oil cooler line in the evening and let it drain overnight...
I wonder if the SleepCheap would let me use their parking lot storm drain, for a no-mess oil disposal method...
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  #21  
Old 07-15-2005, 11:38 AM
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Jim H,

No, don't do that! It is gross polution! I never dump used engine oil. Its worth $2.50+ a gallon as fuel for my Diesel engines or lube for my chainsaw bar.

P E H
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2005, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Jim H,

No, don't do that! It is gross polution! I never dump used engine oil. Its worth $2.50+ a gallon as fuel for my Diesel engines or lube for my chainsaw bar.

P E H
How do you filter used motor oil to use it as diesel engine fuel?
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2005, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83mercedes
A few things you should know if this is your first time doing the change yourself:

1. First of all make sure you are using a motor oil approved for diesel engines.
2. Drain your old oil out with the engine HOT, preferably after a 30 minute or more high speed drive.
3. Always switch the filter, it's worth the minimal expense.
4. I've had very good results using 1 part lucas oil stabilizer to 4 parts oil, it seems to make the engine run a little smoother and keeps your oil from thermally breaking down. You may want to try it if you've got the extra cash, it is expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for.
5. Check condition of old oil for any particulate matter, especially metal.
6. Check oil level several times after completing the change and top off if necessary.
7. Use thick, heat resistant gloves, and be careful especially if you aren't raising the front end, and don't drop the drain plug in the oil pan .
I had to boldface number 4. NEVER EVER use Lucas Oil Stabilizer, or any oil additive at that. You want to see what it really does to oil? Check this out.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
-Joe

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