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  #16  
Old 07-18-2005, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yshahar
Hi There,

I have the manual CD's and the book. I couldn't find the relevant information how to remove the hub. I understand what I need to do and I'll go at it once the bearing kit will show up. I decided to replace them, even without visual inspection, since spinning the rotoer without the wheel makes all sorts of noises.
I followed the link that was provided in the link and couldn't find the relevant information how to remove the hub. If you have the job number I'll appreciate it.
Wanted to thank the detailed description how to do the job + tip regarding re-mounting the hub to the wheel in order to release the allen screws. I prefer not to use power tools if I can help it(I do have a 5HP air compressor). I hope to post pictures once it is all done.
Thanks,
Yossi
PS. I guess that they used the blue NOT the red locktight?
Job 42-220 - Removal and installation of brake disc on front axle

This will go into detail on removing the hub and rotor

Dave

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  #17  
Old 07-18-2005, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor
Please be sure and torque the allen bolts to the proper torque. If memory serves correct, it should be 100ft/lbs. (yeah, you'll have to put some "butt" into it).

Have fun!
Would not torquing them to 100 possibly cause a pulsation in new brakes that has been getting worse?
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  #18  
Old 07-18-2005, 08:12 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rg2098
Would not torquing them to 100 possibly cause a pulsation in new brakes that has been getting worse?
The FSM calls for 115 Nm. It's 85 ft.-lb. If you go to 100 ft.-lb., woe be it to the person who needs to remove them the next time.
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  #19  
Old 07-18-2005, 04:59 PM
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Well....so much for my memory and it being 100 ft/lbs. (oops!)

Trouble is...now I have to wonder if I tightened them down to 100 or 85...suppose I will find out if I ever have to change rotors again.

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