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Old 07-18-2005, 10:04 PM
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omitting regulating valve

hi guys, great forum. i have just joined and am in the process of getting a very old and tired 1980 300d non turbo on the road. the car is a beater, but i love diesels and cant help working on character cars. lets just say that all of the vacuum parts are shot. the pump is actually ok, pulling about 25in.the door locks dont work and many vacuum lines and parts have been removed or are beyond repair,very leaky system. the car would not turn off so i did all the trouble shooting and was able to get it to work if i run a line from the main brake booster line to the brown line that goes to the key switch and back.problem is, when i hook up the regulating valve and thus the transmission line, there is too much of a leak and the car wont shut down again.by the way the trans works but shifts hard and at too high rpm.it looks like much of the lines that were at one time on the reg valve have either been removed or tapped off.what would happen if i just teed off of the main vac line and ran the one to the key switch and back, to of course turn off the car, and then ran one directly to the transmission? would it screw up the shifts? what does this valve do anyway? i really dont care if any other vac componants function or not.....and that been said, what heater controls
are vac operated on the 1980 300? i guess it would also be nice to turn the heat controls on and off

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Old 07-18-2005, 10:16 PM
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Seems like '80 is a transition year on the climate stuff. Are your climate control buttons vertical (evil climate control servo ), or are they the horizontal buttons?
You have one of the older trannys like in my '80 wagon I would assume. Vacuum makes the tranny shift, and lack of vac makes it shift late, very late, and will be very hard when it does. Do you have a pic of the top of your valve cover, where some of the vac stuff is?
Over by the firewall, brown is shutoff, solid yellow is door locks, yellow with gray stripe goes to vac cannister, and green goes to climate contol stuff. There is also a black vent line from IP that goes through firewall and just lays there open under the dash. Does your main vac line, from pump to brake booster have 1 "T" off of it or 2?
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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Old 07-19-2005, 12:16 AM
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ok lets see, the climate control switches are horizontal slides, there are two,one just below the two center vents and one above the two round temp selector dials just above the radio,the lower one seems to direct the air either up or down, if that makes sense. there is only one tee that splits off of the main vac line.this seems to supply all the vac needs into the dash thru the fire wall, as well as the regulating valve and transmission.the reg valve itself has a black vent line on the very bottom of the vertical plate, which is capped off. there are also two lines going into the reg valve,the one closest to the front of the car has also been capped off,the line closest to the fire wall is the line which comes off the main tee,this one is still connected. when i do a vac test on the reg valve on this line it does not hold any vac at all. thus my problem with turning off the car,there is just too much of a leak at the reg valve.a test on the line directly to the transmission is good,hols lots of vac for a long time. that is why iam curious as to what might happen if i just leave a direct vac line to the transmission connected,i guess it would not shift any worse than it does.or would it hurt things more with a full constant supply of vacuum? again i ask, what excactly is the purpose of the reg valve? can it be removed and serviced? do i really need it? and then of course there is the climate control stuff, iam hoping that it is mechanical and not vacuum operated, any help here would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:04 AM
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if your climate controls are rotary knobs, theyre manual=)

you would have pushbuttons if it was automatic climate control.

if you have a golf tee, just cap off the line that "t's" off to the passengers compartment. youll likely help the shifting.

the worst part is sucking on that black 4 way vacuum divider whenever ou have to turn off the car. people will look at you funny=)

but hey, itll turn off=)
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wade
ok lets see, the climate control switches are horizontal slides, there are two,one just below the two center vents and one above the two round temp selector dials just above the radio,the lower one seems to direct the air either up or down, if that makes sense. there is only one tee that splits off of the main vac line.this seems to supply all the vac needs into the dash thru the fire wall, as well as the regulating valve and transmission.the reg valve itself has a black vent line on the very bottom of the vertical plate, which is capped off. there are also two lines going into the reg valve,the one closest to the front of the car has also been capped off,the line closest to the fire wall is the line which comes off the main tee,this one is still connected. when i do a vac test on the reg valve on this line it does not hold any vac at all. thus my problem with turning off the car,there is just too much of a leak at the reg valve.a test on the line directly to the transmission is good,hols lots of vac for a long time. that is why iam curious as to what might happen if i just leave a direct vac line to the transmission connected,i guess it would not shift any worse than it does.or would it hurt things more with a full constant supply of vacuum? again i ask, what excactly is the purpose of the reg valve? can it be removed and serviced? do i really need it? and then of course there is the climate control stuff, iam hoping that it is mechanical and not vacuum operated, any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Wade,
you lucky freakin devil! It sounds like you have a Euro 300D based on your description of the manual climate controls. That is excellent! The old climate control was awful, the newer one has issues alot also. So manual controls is the best scenario. Do you also have cloth seats? manual sunroof?
Anyway, it sounds like you may have a 3/2 valve on top of your valve cover, which is what my wagon has. I'll attach a couple of pics, but basically, and you'll have to play with this some, but one line comes off of main vac line to 3/2 valve. One goes from 3/2 valve to tranny modulator, which I'm guessing is on passenger side of your tranny. The third line is capped/plugged.
The 3/2 valve lessens the vac to tranny during acceleration, and combined with the adjustment of tranny modulator caused tranny to shift. Too much vacuum and the tranny shifts early and also will flare shifts. Too little or no vacuum and it shifts incredibly late and hard. Play with the vacuum to the tranny, and then worry about adjusting modulator. do a search on this forum for tranny vac adjustments, and also look up at stickys at top of forum. You have an older style of tranny and modulator than alot of the posts, so just look for the ones that seem to describe your components.
On the tranny modulator, clockwise makes shifts later, ccw shifts earlier.
If you have a different setup than the 3/2, then like Emily Latella(or was it Rosanne Rosanna-danna) would say, "Nevermind". (that will be lost on the young folks)



[see pic with this thread. It wouldn't let me attach pic again]

Yipes I guess I am glad I have a non turbo
Attached Thumbnails
omitting regulating valve-mb-stuff-020.jpg  
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Last edited by JimmyL; 07-19-2005 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:38 AM
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morning!!!! great info guys, this car is turning out to be a ton of work (i love it) very easy to work on......anyway thanks for the pics and all the great info. i talked to the buddy of mine last night who gave me the car ,and your right,it is a euro 300d,the guy who initially owned it had it imported from there on his own...glad to hear that the climate controls are manual.its really too bad that the fenders and front bezel are so rusted,would consider restoring car if it was worth it,the thing is a ton of fun. i have a 2004 ram
cummins diesel, and actually prefer driving this thing,(when it shuts off)
talk about no power though, but the engine runs great,new plugs and injectors,and no smoke at all.
as far as the vac setup, mine looks nothing like your pics,i dont have that 3/2 valve anywhere....like i said in last post its just one tee off of the main
line and then into firewall (locks and shut off) and the one to the valve thats on the ip,and then to transmission...i do have one very small diam black line that runs out under the batt tray to somewhere,i was mabe thinking that it was for the fuel lid lock, i will have to trace to see where the trans line is coming from...if i totally bypass the reg valve(the one on the ip) will i hurt anything else on the car, other then the shifts on the transmission?

just a side note: i belong to three other forums on the net, one for my vette,one for my cummins diesel, and one for my old Harley, this has been the best one for response time and info so far.... UP HERE IN CALGARY ALBERTA

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