Brian, you earlier said you can't feel anything under 0.0015"... something I agree with.

Now you're saying to tighten until you can't feel any play, then back off 10° to get 0.001" play. Using your earlier logic, you'd end up with 0.0025".

The reason I said to leave it finger tight is because most American manufacturers instruct the mechanic to back off the nut after finger-tight, and even a bit more until the nearest position for the cotter pin is reached. This usually puts you in the 0.002" to 0.003" axial play where most double tapers have the longest life. Not backing off puts you closer to 0.0005". As far as being grossly inadequate, any MB wheel bearing preload where you don't use a dial gauge is grossly inadequate.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Would the use of a dial gauge be proper with the calipers mounted already? From the measurments given here I don't think the presence of the caliper would change readings to any degree. I am going to get a dial gauge since I have another 123 to put brakes in later next month. I did take the car out that I did the brakes on today, all seems fine. When spinning the disc with no caliper in place and obviously no wheel, it spins a little on its own but only for a couple of seconds. No movement is felt. Thanks for all the advice, never knew there was so much to know about wheel bearings! Better get a ford next time :-)

I imagine it should be okay with the caliper on, considering that we're only asking the hub to move a thousandths of an inch or so. For good measure I'd first try to back off the pads a bit to improve the "feel". Even with a dial gauge it's difficult to find (or feel) the play because of the damping effect from the grease.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Yes, the inaccuracies of my procedure will result in someting between .001 and .0025. You can't feel anything below .0015, but, it is likely that you will end up somewhere between .0015 and zero prior to backing off the nut 10 degrees. So, the worst case scenario is .0025 and the best case scenario is .001.

If you use an american vehicle as a standard of measure, you can back off the nut to the nearest cotter pin position, as you mentioned. This would give you something between .001" and .003".

My concern is "finger tight". I believe that it is possible to put about .003 preload on the bearing if your fingers are of decent strength. You can notice this preload because the rotor will start to drag while turning. So, leaving it in this position is not desirable.

I agree that it is grossly inadequate without the proper dial indicator, because you can't get anywhere near .0005" unless you get lucky, but, I would still prefer to see a clearance of .003" rather than a preload.

Here is how I remove the front discs:
remove hub with disc
bolt hub to tire/rim with two or three lugs
use the correct allen socket IIRC 10mm
drive the socket "home" so that it wont round out
use extensions and a breaker bar with a pipe extention.
place the wheel upright wedged against the wall or the car's bumper and
loosen the screws....

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Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

good luck removing the bolts by clamping the rotor in a vise. heat and wd 40 also of course.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.