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  #31  
Old 07-23-2005, 01:31 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,369
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
sure that you can order rads with an extra row of tubes from rebuild places. if you cant find a source let me know and i will ask my machinist where he got his.
OK, (third post on this thread, I am hung up on cooling on the 603 engine!)
I am interested. I need a radiator for another '87 I am working on and I would consider buying a 3-row in a heartbeat, if it was the same size as the original. please ask your mechanic, I have a three row on one of my 123's and can tell you it makes a big difference! I won't need one for a month or so (the head is being sent to be rebuilt) but was planning on looking for a custom welded alternative if a rebuilder can't be found that does 3-row upgrades. This car is going to Texas and I want it to run cool!

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  #32  
Old 07-23-2005, 01:38 PM
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dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
i will

check and post results.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #33  
Old 07-24-2005, 02:28 PM
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603 aficionado
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: nyc
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
me being intuitive, but i doubt that the water pump is the weak link. more radiator seems to be the way to go in my minnd. your thinking is correct in the abstract, but if a pump is spun more than its max optimal speed it will cavitate and all will be lost. (no pumping occurring, i mean).

i think that a bigger radiator or one with more rows of cooling tubes is the silution, that and perhaps rigging the aux electric cooling fans to run more often.
I have my aux fan running on high 100% of the time, it seems to not be a problem at idle even with the a/c on but when under load is a diff story. I think I will try the set up mentioned earlier on this tread using the clutch from a Mazda or mitsubishi truck, if it works its a lot better than sinking $200+ on a OEM fan clutch as opposed to maybe $10 to $20 at the pull it yourself yard. If you get 2 years out of it then you just go get another one

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