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  #1  
Old 07-20-2005, 10:56 PM
mbonly's Avatar
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Angry Expensive fan clutch. Is modification possible?

My 87 300d with 603 eng has a bad fan clutch, it just spins and spins after shut down when its hot even at 100deg eng temp. I have the aux fan running strait in the mean time but the clutch is over $200 new which I think is the only long time solution as opposed to injecting it with toyota fluid. I went to Strauss the other day and all the fan clutches they had were between $30-$40 while my 603 clutch is over $200 which is rediculous. I was wondering if is possible to swap a fan from another car, MB or otherwise, or maybe even converting to an electric main fan altogether using a fan from a pull-it-yourself yard and the relay and sensor from the same car(many of them even have 2 speeds) but I would buy the relay new and change the bearings on the new (old) fan. I dont see what's so special about these 603 fan clutch that makes them so expensive, its really disheartening having to pay so much for a part that is at least 100% cheaper on must every other car which is what makes me think of doing this swap. Has anybody else try something like this?

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87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2005, 01:00 AM
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Neil/kdj??? who dropped a C36 engine in his 300TE swapped the clutch fan for a SPAL electric fan. SPAL makes good fans and such a swap is not done to save money.

Dave/gsxr will advise you to upgrade your alternator if you swap the clutch fan for an electric fan. Fortunately used 143-150 amp fans from W140s and R129s are reasonably priced at around $100 and are an easy conversion. You have to swap in the 603 alternator pulley and run a big fat battery wire in place of the skinny 603 wire.

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  #3  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:57 AM
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hi there, just read your thread and guess what? i just went over the exact same problem you have......didnt want to crack for the expensive new clutch.
so i went to the self serve yard after taking some careful measurements,and found that with very minor modifications that for my 1980 300d a fan AND clutch from any mazda or mistubishi truck just about bolts right in. i did this yesterday and it works great...also alot quieter then having a directly bolted on fan(which i had before) .....the diam for the fan blades themselves were only about 1/2 inch smaller on these trucks,i was going to try and use my old fan and modify the clutch but surprise surprise, didnt even need to do that.
the only two small mods were: had to slightly enlarge the bolt holes on the hub itself,pattern was the same but holes were a little smaller. and the 2nd,
since i used the fan from the mitsubishi truck, the blade pitch was slightly greater,and it was just catching the crank pully and ticking a little (the blades are plastic) i filed them down just a tad, and now it works great!!!!!
both mods took a grand totoal of 5 minutes hope this helps
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:04 AM
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Mbonly, don't know if it would fit, but I have a used (150Kmiles) fan clutch from a 1986 190D 2.5 for $40 shipped to your door in USA. Believe is a 602.911 or 912 engine. I would have to figure out how to test it before shipping.
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  #5  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:09 AM
LarryBible
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I have never done this, but I have read that there is a pin that is actuated by a bimetallic spring. This pin is what locks up the fan when hot. You can somehow drive this pin into place to permanently lock the fan clutch.

Do some searching here because I know that there is a thread or two that explains this in detail.

Good luck,
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:09 AM
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the seach function is a wonderful thing.................

.................................


Fan clutch issue 603????


If it were me, I wouldn't be buying a new clutch very soon.
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wade
hi there, just read your thread and guess what? i just went over the exact same problem you have......didnt want to crack for the expensive new clutch.
so i went to the self serve yard after taking some careful measurements,and found that with very minor modifications that for my 1980 300d a fan AND clutch from any mazda or mistubishi truck just about bolts right in. i did this yesterday and it works great...also alot quieter then having a directly bolted on fan(which i had before) .....the diam for the fan blades themselves were only about 1/2 inch smaller on these trucks,i was going to try and use my old fan and modify the clutch but surprise surprise, didnt even need to do that.
the only two small mods were: had to slightly enlarge the bolt holes on the hub itself,pattern was the same but holes were a little smaller. and the 2nd,
since i used the fan from the mitsubishi truck, the blade pitch was slightly greater,and it was just catching the crank pully and ticking a little (the blades are plastic) i filed them down just a tad, and now it works great!!!!!
both mods took a grand totoal of 5 minutes hope this helps
That's great, I actually own a mazda B2600i that I redid the head my self so is very familiar to me, thanks for the info.
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87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanno
Mbonly, don't know if it would fit, but I have a used (150Kmiles) fan clutch from a 1986 190D 2.5 for $40 shipped to your door in USA. Believe is a 602.911 or 912 engine. I would have to figure out how to test it before shipping.
I'll do some searches to see if its the same, I appreciate the offer.
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87 300d Turbo 241K with original #14 head (blue)
87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:19 PM
mbonly's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible
I have never done this, but I have read that there is a pin that is actuated by a bimetallic spring. This pin is what locks up the fan when hot. You can somehow drive this pin into place to permanently lock the fan clutch.

Do some searching here because I know that there is a thread or two that explains this in detail.

Good luck,
I though about doing something like that but the only problem is the noise and then having to probably undo during the winter but as far as cooling goes it'll probably work great!!!!!!!!!
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87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:29 PM
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you could

also probably put on a rigid 240 fan. also i think you can take out the clutch assembly an d insert a spacer that bolts on rigidly. in fact i think i have such a device (universal) in my garage somewhere that i never installed.
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  #11  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
.................................


Fan clutch issue 603????


If it were me, I wouldn't be buying a new clutch very soon.
That's interesting, for $200+ we shouldn't be worring about whether or not it will work. Its interesting that my Mazda B2600i when I start it in the morning the clutch is still engaged and you hear it roar for a few seconds and then it goes silent but when it is hot you definitely hear the fan and is no coinsidence that this little truck never goes pass 1/3 of the scale regardless of the temp outside even with 170K miles. I had cooling problems in my sd also but it wasn't as critical as in the 603 for just one overheating event and I'm out 2 grand, and will be looking for 2 #17 heads as opposed to one since my other 300d is down with a cracked head. I'm beginning to believe what others have voiced in this forum which is that our diesels were designed with picky and sensitive cooling systems or maybe we just get too confortable with the durability of our cars. I do have to admit that my fan is the original with the metal blades and is been there for 18 years and 244K miles.
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87 300d Turbo 241K with original #14 head (blue)
87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
also probably put on a rigid 240 fan. also i think you can take out the clutch assembly an d insert a spacer that bolts on rigidly. in fact i think i have such a device (universal) in my garage somewhere that i never installed.
Larry sugested the same thing, do you have to take them out during the winter? I assume a rigidly mounted fan will affect winter operation somewhat.
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87 300d Turbo 198K will run great again someday (silver)
84 300sd sold ( buyer drove it to Paraguay )
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2005, 08:41 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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no

i wouldnt think you would have anydifficulty in winter. assuming you have a thermostat. the rigid fan will just cut your mileage a little and take away a little power.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbonly
I had cooling problems in my sd also but it wasn't as critical as in the 603 for just one overheating event and I'm out 2 grand, and will be looking for 2 #17 heads as opposed to one since my other 300d is down with a cracked head. I'm beginning to believe what others have voiced in this forum which is that our diesels were designed with picky and sensitive cooling systems or maybe we just get too confortable with the durability of our cars.
I agree that these cooling systems are not of sufficient capacity to handle a heavy boost load from the 603 in high ambient conditions. Yesterday, mine was running to 100C. on every uphill climb that lasted 15 seconds or more. In heavy stop and go traffic, same deal......right up to 100C.

But, I'm quite convinced that there is nothing to be concerned about, provided it does not exceed 110C. I've never seen it that high, but, I do believe that it will get there under more extreme conditions such as a 10 mile upgrade in 90F. ambients. But, this is why you have a gauge. If it climbs that high, you can control the temperature, almost instantly, by lifting your right foot. Take the boost away and the temp will drop back to 90C. within about 90 seconds, even with the a/c running.

Additionally, make sure that the auxiliary fan is working and that it will engage at the design temp. of 105C. Of course, this is a difficult check to make. It's not easy to get the engine over 105C. to confirm this. You might need to cover the radiator to do it.
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2005, 10:38 PM
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sounds

as if putting in a rad with an extra row of cooling tubes might be a good idea. but i have not had this prob with mine.

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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