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#1
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Diesel newbie questions..
Sorry if some of this has been covered in prior threads, I did some searches but didn't find the depth of discussion I was hoping for.
I am new to diesel, and my car happens to be one of the new-tech CDI's which further makes getting info harder. I gave three questions that I hope you seasoned diesel owners can help me with. Today for example, at the dealer, I got 3 different answers from 3 different techs on the following question: What, if any, additive should I use in my CDI? Redline 85+, Techron, etc... the best answer I got was to use Redline in every tank as it has many additives that help economy, etc... the scariest answer I got was to drop a quart of ATF into my tank!!! That just doesn't sound like good advice. Techron I am told is harmful to your oil, and that the Delo cleaner by Chevron is better.. what do you guys think? Also. two more questions: - is it good to break-in a diesel by driving it hard? does that clean it out well, and keep the turbo happy? - Is it bad to idle the engine for a long period of time in hot weather (105-110 here in Phoenix)? |
#2
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Fuel additives are a bit like oil, you start a thread about which is best and you are going to get the phonebook. At least on the duramax forums I read there is no consensus. There is much debate about emulsifiers vs deemulsifiers and then among brands within either category. Most manufactuers' "official" guidelines say no additives at all. GM did a year or so ago officially recommend that if an additive was going to be used, it should be a deemulsifier to allow the water blocking filter to do its job. I use Rotella DFA in my truck if I use anything, and that is only in the winter. I never add anything to the SDL (except the bits of vegetable oil that get returned to the main tank).
I would never break-in an engine by running it hard (or any other part of the drivetrain for that matter). Maybe a few extra fluid changes early on, but put some miles on it before really beating on it. Just my opinion, been known to be wrong before. As to the idling question, the only time I let any of my diesels idle is if I come in directly off the highway to get fuel or something, then I let it run while filling the tank. Also, if it is cold out and I have only driven a mile or two and stop to get fuel, I let it go ahead and idle. Otherwise, if it is warmed up but not just been working hard, shutting it off is probably best.
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
#3
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thanks, that all sounds like sound advice. I added a dose RedLine to my tank to see if it makes a difference in my milage, and how the engine feels.. so far too early to tell.
As for the break-in, I too figured that going easy is the way to go, but I had more than once source say to drive it normally and let the engine break in that way. That if you over do it with the light footing, you can actually cause it not to break in properly. Eitherway, I changed the oil once at 1000 miles, and once again at 3000 just to make sure any fragments, shards, etc.. are gone from the oil. now I will just go to a 6500 mile interval. Though I've heard from some that letting the oil go to the 13000 miles MB allows can actually be good for the engine(??). The trouble I am having is with the dealer telling me that they use regular Mobil 1 0W-40, vs some kind of diesel oil like Delvac. |
#4
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Try a bunch of different additives and see if anything makes a difference. I have found Power Service will give me a slight mpg gain, and seems to make my engine run a bit better.
Putting ATF in the fuel is an old trick to clean the injectors out. I wouldn't because your car is new, it shouldn't need it. As for oil that topic has been beat to death. But if I had your car this is what I would do: Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 every 5k miles with an OE filter. The way I look at it is why bother with 0w-40 when one of the best diesel oil's around costs the same and is about the same weight? Since your car does have a turbo you are going to want to let it cool down a bit after a highway run. Never come off boost and shut down right away. As soon as you turn the key off the the turbos oil supply is cut. As for driving it I would take it easy for the first 1k miles then drive it hard, diesels like to work. Last winter I would let my car idle for 1/2 an hour at a time and never had a problem.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#5
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follow
the book on break in. my dodge with cummins said that it was no prob to run it hard on break in. maybe there was a brief part that that didn t apply but it just said that running easy just made it take longer to break in. i am not suggesting that this is correct for your car, just that there is not set general rule. i would do whatever the book says.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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Tom, Thanks.. my book (like all MB books I've seen, including my mom's E350) says easy for the first 1000... which makes sense. But I had heard a few guys, including my mechanic at the dealer say... "as long as you don't drive it like a grandma, it will be fine" to quote him, which led me to think NOT to baby it.
Hatter.. You're now the second guy to tell me to go to the Delvac.. Ticks me off since I just paid $100 for an oil change at the dealer where I know they put in plain old 0W-40 M1. Next change I will buy the Delvac and bring it in. So 5W-40, you say.. sounds good. |
#7
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Quote:
FYI: I have two diesel cars and never use additives, for CA fuel doesn't need 'em.
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
#8
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You can buy the Mobil 1 Truck & SUV oil at Wally World for $19. something. There will be 5 gallon jugs. That's the only thing I go there for and even that is too often. (I hate that place)
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#9
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Quote:
Why do they have Delvac and Truck & Suv as brands? if they are the same? |
#10
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I don't know why Mobil does it but Delvac 1 and Truck and SUV oil are the same things but in different bottles.
Walmart has it for $20 for a 5 quart jug.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#11
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Got a call from a MB engineer today.. said that the reason for using standard Mobil 1 0W-40 spec 229.3 (I believe) is cost to the customer.. that it's "good enough".. but freely admitted the Delvac would be the better oil but it would also cost more.
So here is my question now... do I have the oil changed again (2000 miles after my last one at 1000mi) or do I wait till the 6500 mid point (13000 is factory re-fil) and do the Delvac then? I like the laster ($100 savings) but if any one has a good reason to go to Delvac now.. let me know. |
#12
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I would wait and save my $. The key is: don't worry.
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
#13
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New motors need the rings to be seated to have good cylinder compression, at 6500miles... that window is long gone.
You were smart to have changed the oil many times when the motor was new, I see people that wait to 4000 to change it on a new motor! That's about four changes too many for me... I'd have it changed after I start it to see if anything is wrong internally, then around 500 miles, 1500, 3000... then normal changes. The risk isn't worth it with a new motor.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#14
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Go here, read this...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 4 oil changes in 3K miles? It sure won't hurt but it's overkill by any standard. |
#15
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Quote:
time will tell. |
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