Guide rod mount wont come out

[angst]

I am copping out and having a local pep boys re do my front suspension with the parts I bought from fastlane. The initial goal was to simply have a proper front end alignment but its starting to get expensive. They started work but had to stop cuz I needed a guide rod mount. I got that from the dealer and now the old one is not coming out. They are saying they are going to have to blowtorch it to get it out (like 3 more hours labor). Does this sound right? is there something they are missing? Reading the old threads I can't find any refrence to anyone needing these sorts of measures to get the old one out.
The helpful DIY thread says that if its really ratty that you should replace that whole bearing bracket. That sounds like frightening money especially since I already bought all the busings that go in it.
Is there some concept they may be missing? They are talking about having to press the new one in once they get that far along.

[Pete Burton]

If they broke the mounting bolts/nuts in trying to remove the bracket, that could partially explain the "blowtorch". Maybe they want to cut the body recess open to "fix" that. The old parts are easily dealt with once the bracket (an aluminum casting) is out. IMHO, having seen how work is done at Pep boys, I think a better option for fixing your car may be driving it down a short pier as fast as possible Or better yet, take it somewhere else - seriously.

When I did this job, that mounting hardware was so seriously rusted that the captive nut spun in the body because there was almost nothing left of the sheet metal keeper normally attached. I made a special tool to hold the nut and removed the mounting hardware.

[Brian Carlton]

I'm with Pete on this.

Pep Boys is no place to have any suspension work done on a M/B.

If you can't find a reputable shop that knows these vehicles, you had better live with the problem or learn how to fix it yourself.

[James L]

here is what i did on my 1984 300sd-put the bearing bracket in a bench vise, spray with lube (like liquid wrench), see if you can get mount to move by 4lb rubber mallet and a big 32mm socket. cut the rubber lip with a razor knife or hacksaw (be careful). if not go to hardware store and get assorted sizes of big washers/nuts/bolts. this will be your press to press in and out. use spray silicone on the new rubber mounts to aide in installation.

do not heat up aluminum alloy bracket.

[angst]

Gulp! I wasn't too concerned initially when I was kind of spoon feeding them some of the info I got from this board since I had to do the same for the parts guys at the dealership. Now I think it's probably urgent to rush back and make sure they dont wreck the bearing bracket.

[Hatterasguy]

I had to beat the guide rod mount out of the bracket with a mini sledge hammer. It was rusted in so badly nothing else would budge it. It took me maybe an hour at most to do both.

Heating them up is a bad idea their are still two bushings in the aluminum mounts, if you plan on replacing them then go for it. However if you plan on reusing them I wouldn't heat the mount up.

I would never never never never never let Pep Boys touch my car for anything! I would either do the work yourself, or find a good shop. Heck paying more at the dealer is probably better then letting those idiots touch the car.

Be ready to fix their screw up thats all I can say.

[samiam4]

Pepboys might have the alignement machine-

But they don't owe the MB spreader bar and hence will NOT get the alignment correct. It should be a hard job, experience goes a loooong way.


Michael

[samiam4]

Shouldn't....

[dannym]

I went to Firestone to get new tires and there was a MB up on a lift. The machanic, and I use the term loosely, was hammering away at it with a small sledghemmer. He was going at it for quite a while too. I couldn't believe it.

Why would anyone take their car to someone who knows absolutely nothing about foreign cars?

Danny

[Hatterasguy]

Originally Posted by dannym

Why would anyone take their car to someone who knows absolutely nothing about foreign cars?

Danny

No offense to the original poster.

Because they are cheap! Why pay the dealer or a top notch shop more to do a good job when you can get away with paying less.

"you get what you pay for"

What do you expect most Chain stores offer free alighnments with a cheap set of tires.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

"you get what you pay for"

Not always true. You can go to a dealer and get hosed on parts that are not required to fix the problem. The result is a whole lot of money wasted. You did not get what you paid for.

However, I do believe the converse is true.

You cannot go to a chain store and pay a cheap price and have the proper job done to a Mercedes.

So, therefore:

You don't get what you don't pay for.

How's that?

[Phil]

Are you sure they are even trying to push it out in the correct direction? When I did mine they did not come out easily but it still only took about 10 min. each to push them out.

[GTStinger]

Did mine this winter. One had a torn boot and an ample amount of rust inside. I sprayed it down with a ton of penetrating fluid and let it sit overnight. It came out in 15 minutes with a vise and 5 lb hammer. I can't imagine one needing a blowtorch or 3 hours labor.

[angst]

Ive been dropping them off tidbits of info off the board (neg. pep boys comments edited of course) to the point that I think that they are tired of seeing me.
I went over and expressed my concerns about the torch and wasnt encouraged. They seemed to think that pounding on it bore the same breaking risks.
When you say "right direction" this would seem intuitive that it comes out the direction of the back (plate direction) is this correct?
Perhaps I should say let me do it and I will bring it back ready to go.

When you say

But they don't owe the MB spreader bar and hence will NOT get the alignment correct

I have never heard of this. Does a MB alignment take a special shop with special equipment?

[Fisherman]

Rigged up a couple of blocks of wood and hit the old threaded end with a 2 pound hammer and voila, they popped right out.
The new one's you cna start by hand and then help them to seat with a rubber mallet.

Now on the 81 I had to basically dig them out but it is doable. I would second the bad thought of a torch on the aluminum mount. Especially as someone pointed out that there are two other bushings that very rarely would ever need replacing until you melt them...